Should I be concerned (water in oil)?

[w123suv]

When I change the oil I drain the pan and then use a punch to make a hole in the bottom of the filter. As soon as I broke though the metal I got water droplets. I would estimate a teaspoon maybe less came out then just normal black oil. I didn't see anything when I opened the drain valve on the pan.

The water was clear/oily but not green. Radiator is full and I don't see any oil on top of coolant.

I'm inclined to not worry about it and see if it happens again at next oil change. Is condensation possible? Can water get sucked in through the intake in a bad rain?

This is a 92 E350 Van.

Thanks for you opinions.

 

[IDIoit]

best thing to do is to do a coolant system pressure test.

i would suspect that it is not an issue, seeing that it was a minimal amount,
and it wasnt the color of the coolant.

the truck must have been sitting for a while.

like you said, keep an eye on it.

 

[Knuckledragger]

The most likely culprit is the oil cooler. Once the o rings o bad, they don't get better again.

 

[Grey Wolf]

Can we assume that you have been using SCA's in your coolant, or have a coolant that contains SCA?

http://www.genosgarage.com/installation_instructions/GGTutorial-FD-FleetguardTestStrips.pdf

 

[w123suv]

After noticing the water in the filter and posting about it I also noticed condensation in the filler neck. I googled that symptom and it seems to be fairly common for folks on short runs in cooler weather. I had started the van drove it maybe two miles and then shut it down for the oil change.

I noticed after starting the van again that while it was running the filler tube was cool to the touch but after turning off the tube started to warm up. Makes sense that there would be condensation.

I'm getting ready to go on a 1500 mile trip and have no time to do work on it so I'm going to go for it and keep an eye on things.

A pressure test as IDIoit suggested will be my first step when I get home.

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[PwrSmoke]

Frequent short hops in winter weather can cause this sort of condensation. Seen it many times and it is a well documented phenomenon. If that is how this truck is routinely used, consider the idea of a 195 degree thermostat, partly covering the radiator, or even (gasp) using the block heater. The goal is to make this engine warm up faster. Idling it longer won't do it either, as they don't generate a lot of heat at idle. You might also test the current t-stat. It's possible it might be stuck open. If this were my van, I would be running a 10W30 oil in it as well. A lighter oil flows better and warms up faster. Unless you tow heavy with this van, a 10W30 HD oil is perfectly appropriate for everyday people-mover operation... and it is on the list of recommended oils for the IDI.

Long term, this condensation stuff can cause harm to the engine, acidifying the oil a lot more quickly due to the moisture and once the oil is acidified, corrosion sets in and oxidation goes crazy.. creating sludge.

One other alternative action is to take it out for an "Italian Tune-Up" once a week during cold weather... drive it enough to FULLY warm it up (that's at least fifteen minutes of steady driving) and then drive another 15-20 minutes past that. That is enough activity to bake out a week's worth of moisture buildup. A long trip at this point will be very good for this truck.

 

[IDIoit]

condensation for sure!
get a handle on it buddy.
its not a big problem at first, but if you dont keep on top of it,
you will not like the outcome.

pwrsmoke is correct.
but to add to this, if this was my truck,,
i would add a quart of ATF to the crank case,
run her around for a couple of hours and then do an oil change.
the trick is to get her WARM and give her a work out!!!

i deal with this alot in my boats, they get the ATF treatment every season.
its not a big deal if you stay on top of it,
but you dont want this crud working its way in the bearings, and oil pressure check valves.
keep an eye on your oil pressure.
and do not trust your stock gauge, get a mechanical oil gauge.

 

[PwrSmoke]

but to add to this, if this was my truck,,
i would add a quart of ATF to the crank case,
run her around for a couple of hours and then do an oil change.
the trick is to get her WARM and give her a work out!!!

Gotta call you on this. The ATF thing is a myth. ATF has LOTS FEWER detergents in it than motor oil (I could explain why in excruciating detail but just consider that the auto trans environment is a closed system without the input of combustion gasses... hi detergency is simply not needed). Plus it has friction modifiers in it that are incompatible with engines. A short run with ATF won't really hurt anything but neither will it do any good. The best thing for a slow cleanup is simply fresh motor oil. If there is a need for more, Kreen or Auto-RX will do that job (but I seldom see it as necessary).

 

[Zaggnutt]

Good info. IDIoit, are using the ATF as a cleaner for "sludge" buildup?

 

[IDIoit]

Gotta call you on this. The ATF thing is a myth. ATF has LOTS FEWER detergents in it than motor oil (I could explain why in excruciating detail but just consider that the auto trans environment is a closed system without the input of combustion gasses... hi detergency is simply not needed). Plus it has friction modifiers in it that are incompatible with engines. A short run with ATF won't really hurt anything but neither will it do any good. The best thing for a slow cleanup is simply fresh motor oil. If there is a need for more, Kreen or Auto-RX will do that job (but I seldom see it as necessary).

this topic has always been super debatable. i started using ATF in my POS 68 lemans
the engine was garbage, and lifters started ticking.
i used ATF on it for a few years and it worked.
it also cut some of the sludge and i was able to eventually break it down
to find the inside of the block alot cleaner than the heads,
which were caked in waxy oil. and about 2 years from draining sludge out of the oil drain hole with a shop vac,

while i agree that Kreen and Auto-RX may help, ATF is cheaper lol
and it will be dumped anyhow.

while the OP's situation isnt dire, my opinion is that either of the methods will work,
IF he grabs the bull by the horns.

thanks for call me out!
i enjoy a good friendly debate!

Good info. IDIoit, are using the ATF as a cleaner for "sludge" buildup?

all it did for me was thin the oil and break up crud, i still had to get it out

 

[PwrSmoke]

What you cite is what we call anecdotal. In truth, a good detergent motor oil would do the same thing. There is chapter and verse on this if you want to look for it, but a lot of it is found in oil geek text. There are esters in SOME ATFs that do have some detergency and some ability to do a "penetrating oil" type of thing with a stickily lifter. These esters, which are similar to elements in synthetic oils, that do this work but most ATFs don't have a lot in them.

The OP's problem really isn't severe at this point IMO. An oil change and a long drive are the best prescription and lill likely clear it up... until next winter anyway. But now he knows what to do.