Scored at the Junkyard

Cincinnati Guy

Registered User
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Posts
2,527
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
Went to the junkyard today in hopes to find my Solid state parts and I got them all.. I think I got everything let me know... Well I looked over 4 diesels they had there... Came out of the junkyard only paying $30.00 for 8 beru glowplugs, glow plug controller for 87 and on for IDI and the wiring harness, and a better CDR Valve. Ok now the thing is getting this thing converted over to solid state...So On my truck do I take out hte old GP controller and plug the hole it goes in? I need to bolt this Solid state controller on the back like it was on the original truck?

Is the wiring harness the same as whats on my truck or should I just change out the wires for the GP's?

BTW the girlfriend found this truck for me! What else can I ask for, a girlfriend that loves going to the JY as much as me!

Id like to get this all done by tomorrow can it be done?

Does any rewiring need done since I got the whole wiring harness? Here are some pictures of what I got today...

Also can I buy new ends for it where the GP's plug because they seem a little brittle with the plastic on the outside of it, or will it matter if its there or not.....


Here is a view of everything I got...
You must be registered for see images attach


Upclose of the GP controller
You must be registered for see images attach


Any help appreciated...
 

RLDSL

Diesel fuel abuser
Joined
Dec 14, 2005
Posts
7,701
Reaction score
22
Location
Arkansas
Did you get the little sensor out of the front of the pass side head with the narrow 2 prong connector? ( or does your year already have that one ?)
If you got all that, it seems you should be able to plug all you got up and get rid of the old.

Did you propose to her on the spot?:hail:love:
 

Cincinnati Guy

Registered User
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Posts
2,527
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
What sensor you talking about? Mine is a 85 the truck I got it out of is a 91 or 92 cant remember exactly...

LOL oh I was about to, I been looking for the solid state for a while now...Lets just hope I got the sensor. Maybe I did there was something weird looking connected to the wire harness Ill go take a picture maybe its what you are talking about...
 

Cincinnati Guy

Registered User
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Posts
2,527
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
This what you talking about?

You must be registered for see images attach


Anyways I cant just change out the wire harness becuase my truck has the 8 pin connector for the harness where as the new wire harness has the 12 pin connector...

Boy is this going to be harder than what I thought.

Id like to also keep it where the GP's come on without adding an extra switch to turn them on...
 

RLDSL

Diesel fuel abuser
Joined
Dec 14, 2005
Posts
7,701
Reaction score
22
Location
Arkansas
There is a sensor threaded into the passenger side head at the front up under the filter , it has 2 prongs sticking up very close together, the plug for it will be on that harness. it is the temp sensor that decides weather or not to allow current to pass to the high idle and timing advance.
Use the search feature in this section for glow plug diagram and it should bring up a few good pictures of the wiring circuit that shows all the pieces hooked up
 

RLDSL

Diesel fuel abuser
Joined
Dec 14, 2005
Posts
7,701
Reaction score
22
Location
Arkansas
This what you talking about?

You must be registered for see images attach


Anyways I cant just change out the wire harness becuase my truck has the 8 pin connector for the harness where as the new wire harness has the 12 pin connector...

Boy is this going to be harder than what I thought.

Id like to also keep it where the GP's come on without adding an extra switch to turn them on...

The sensor I'm talking about is what plugs into the plug two items to the left of what you are holding
 

Cincinnati Guy

Registered User
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Posts
2,527
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
Well apparently then I didnt! Dang... Well I know there are instructions on how to do it but i seem to not be able to find them....GRRRRR

Maybe doing this is going to be harder than what I thought?


I know there is a wire diagram on how to wire the new controller up but cant find it...I am not sure if I can just cut the old GP ends off and put on the bullet type or not...

Isnt the little sensor your talking about the timing advance/fast idle?
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
682
Location
West coast
Yes, thats what the sender behind the thermostat is for. I think all 6.9 and 7.3 motors have the same plug senser.
 

typ4

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Posts
9,131
Reaction score
1,431
Location
Newberg,OR
the heat sensor is for the fast idle and advance, same on 6.9, 7.3 and GM diesels too. That little cube thing is for the water sensor IIRC.
The wiring is very easy. I think they do different feedback to the dash between years. and there is no water in fuel on the 6.9 IIRC leave those out till it is hooked up and working, colors will match up and the connector comes apart easy to switch over.
 

Cincinnati Guy

Registered User
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Posts
2,527
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
Russ you talking about the 12 and 8 prong connector that connects the wiring harness?

Do I do away with the old GP solenoid since its all in one now?
 

jtate

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2006
Posts
454
Reaction score
0
Location
houma,La
just remember when you hook up the wts light, that the old style controler supplied 12 volts to turn on the wts light and the solid state controller supplies a ground to turn on the wts light. when i converted mine i had to use a 5 prong relay to swap its function. if i can find the wiring diagram i will post it.
 

Cincinnati Guy

Registered User
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Posts
2,527
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
I was told by a member of another forum I view that the WTS will still work and the one on the Solid state does not need hooked up...
 

trj

MPG
Joined
Jul 24, 2008
Posts
72
Reaction score
0
Location
Colorado
Remove the old sensor at the back of the block and put a plug in it. The controller you have will have to be mounted on the flat space on the back of the aluminum intake manifold in the same place you took it off of the doner engine. The holes will not be there of course so you will have to drill and tap them to mount it. Be sure not to drill into the internal passages of the intake manifold. You can feel the underside of the area it is mounted on to be sure you aren't going inside the intake system.

Your new (to you) harness will have a connector that connects to the tach sensor on the injector gear housing your 6.9 probably won't have. Just secure it somehow. It is a 2 conductor connector and round plastic. There is a way to connect it to another location I have been told so it will work if you need it to (I need to figure this one out myself!!!).

You should use the new (to you) glow plugs (assuming they are good) because they have a different current rating than those for the original 6.9 system.

Just connect the new (to you) controller the way it was on the harness you took off. The picture you have explains more than I know about other connections to the new (to you) controller.

The only other problem you should have is the connections Russ mentioned on the main harness to the body wiring. It sounds like he may be able to explain that....I don't know how these should be connected but the wiring diagram mentioned earlier should explain a lot.

Also Ford or IH (maybe both) sells a conversion kit to do exactly the conversion you are doing using new parts and I would think it would come with connection instructions for the main harness connector. Locally I go to IH and they are usually happy to accommodate me with that type of info. The Ford people are less accommodating but sometimes they come through.

Hope this helps!
Tom
 
Last edited:

Alex S

Jeoff
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Posts
813
Reaction score
1
Location
New West BC
you could just run a wire off the GP circuit itself and run it to the WTS light that way you will know exactly when they are cycling and if they are getting power (if something should go wrong)
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
93,029
Posts
1,156,233
Members
26,618
Latest member
Nathanelliott44

Members online

Top