Sad day and clutch (I thought...)

[Sergey]

Thank you for so many useful replies and suggestions. I know this is a knowledgeable and supportive community.

Regarding finding used transmission jack stand. Maybe in the future. Currently there is no place where this work could be done, truck sits on older uneven gravel overgrown with grass, no garage, no concrete pad. Given that and with my condition it is an overestimate that I would accomplish myself removing all required driveline parts and put them back properly. Paying to the shop to do it out of budget now.

Therefore will let the truck sit, perhaps overwinter in preservation mode, while I explore options how to make something makeshift, cheap, maybe ugly, just make truck moving somewhat. Like a bracket applied in place.
I still plan to keep the truck, even as non-running vehicle, for a while.

PS. Yes I believe the transmission is T19. The first, factory original clutch served 20 years. The second, current clutch, still works. I don't know is it stiff or not, since I don't recall how the previous was to compare.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Ditto on the 800lb one above. Very stout, wide wheel base, all 4 wheels turn and spin (Unlike a floor Jack.), adjustable top plate, pump handle spins 360* too as I remember. Suggest like Old Goat look for a good used one or look for a HF coupon. These are heavy duty!

But you ain't living until you got a tranny and transfer case dangling over your head on a floor jack, precariously held on there with a 2x6 and a ratchet strap! But I really dig the cherry picker idea.

 

[Big Bart]

Thank you for so many useful replies and suggestions. I know this is a knowledgeable and supportive community.

Regarding finding used transmission jack stand. Maybe in the future. Currently there is no place where this work could be done, truck sits on older uneven gravel overgrown with grass, no garage, no concrete pad. Given that and with my condition it is an overestimate that I would accomplish myself removing all required driveline parts and put them back properly. Paying to the shop to do it out of budget now.

Therefore will let the truck sit, perhaps overwinter in preservation mode, while I explore options how to make something makeshift, cheap, maybe ugly, just make truck moving somewhat. Like a bracket applied in place.
I still plan to keep the truck, even as non-running vehicle, for a while.

PS. Yes I believe the transmission is T19. The first, factory original clutch served 20 years. The second, current clutch, still works. I don't know is it stiff or not, since I don't recall how the previous was to compare.

Some thoughts -

While it sits, be on the look out online for a cheap one.

Some suggest “Pick a part” recyclers have low prices and sale days. You could learn what it takes to pull it out. It is not as hard as you think to pull it out. Putting it in can be challenging as the input shaft has to key with the clutch plate and the pilot hole on the crank. Then decide if you want to do the r&r on yours or pay someone later to r&r it. (Or get more when you sell it.)

Also look out for a piece or two of 1/2” thick plywood. Slide it under the truck and you have a instant 4x8 garage floor for any type of tranny Jack.

Lastly a strong young buck in his 20’s or 30’s could man handle it (With no transfer case.) out on his back and roll it off to you. Then with some help he could get it back in bench pressing it. Did a few tranny’s that way when I was young and poor. Now I am a little weaker, a little richer, and a little wiser. Maybe you have a son with a strong friend, a strong neighbor who works on cars, or a co-worker who would help out on a Saturday for a 12 pack.

Also a lot of mechanics will work after hours for their cut of the action. Often only $25-50 an hour, a fraction of what the shop is charging you. Or will barter, maybe you have a old car, engine, tool, or ……. they will trade labor for.

Seems like it’s been a great truck, so worth saving.

 

[Old Goat]

Some thoughts -

While it sits, be on the look out online for a cheap one.

Some suggest “Pick a part” recyclers have low prices and sale days. You could learn what it takes to pull it out. It is not as hard as you think to pull it out. Putting it in can be challenging as the input shaft has to key with the clutch plate and the pilot hole on the crank. Then decide if you want to do the r&r on yours or pay someone later to r&r it. (Or get more when you sell it.)

Also look out for a piece or two of 1/2” thick plywood. Slide it under the truck and you have a instant 4x8 garage floor for any type of tranny Jack.

Lastly a strong young buck in his 20’s or 30’s could man handle it (With no transfer case.) out on his back and roll it off to you. Then with some help he could get it back in bench pressing it. Did a few tranny’s that way when I was young and poor. Now I am a little weaker, a little richer, and a little wiser. Maybe you have a son with a strong friend, a strong neighbor who works on cars, or a co-worker who would help out on a Saturday for a 12 pack.

Also a lot of mechanics will work after hours for their cut of the action. Often only $25-50 an hour, a fraction of what the shop is charging you. Or will barter, maybe you have a old car, engine, tool, or ……. they will trade labor for.

Seems like it’s been a great truck, so worth saving.

One thing, PNP type yards do not let you use any type of jacks.
You do not want to bench press a 150lb chunk of iron over your head.

A few years ago I pulled a T-19 out of a 85 at PNP. I came up with this crazy idea of using a 2 x 6, running it through both wind wings. Mounted a crank winch in the center, cut a hole for the strap or cable to drop through.
Removed the shift lever/boot and floor cover plate.
Rig up some type of sling/strap under the trans.

Talked to the manager, and he said sure, go ahead, as I wasn`t jacking up anything.

usually you can find a jack that was overlooked in one of the vehicles. I slip it under the engine just to hold it when I cut out the trans X frame. (Forgot that one little detail)
now the weight of the engine was on my jury rig. Did finally wiggle it off and lower it down.
Dropped it on a piece of carpet to slide it out from under the truck.
had to get someone to help me lift it into the wheelbarrow,
don`t have enough oomph in my skinny lil az when it weighs more than I do.

If you get some young guys to help, make sure they get the 12 PK after doing the work....

Goat

 

[captain720]

Plus one on the plywood it’s the only way to go, and when working in gravel if not using a jack put down a harbor freight tarp in case you drop a bolt or fastener

 

[Old Goat]

I should have mentioned. If working on dirt/gravel or on Asphalt, and using jack Stands, you need to place a thick piece of Ply Wood under them for support. 2 x 2 ft.

The stand and will sink from the weight. Even Asphalt which is just tar and sand/gravel the stand will push into it.
You do not want the weight of the vehicle to shift and fall over.

Safety First!


Goat

 

[Farmer Rock]

These truck tranny's are really heavy, if you try dropping it and especially reinstalling it by hand on your back like a sports car tranny, you will hate life from that point on .... I'm serious.......
Don't use the hf scissor jack unless you want a broken hand ....


Rock

 

[typ4]

Pull trans and have it welded, or replace it. Odd failure point...

It is a very common failure on the 4 spd bell.

 

[Nero]

Guess I'm not that familiar with the 4spd then, my old 1980 gasser I used to have had almost 300k on the original 4spd

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

You must be registered for see images attach

I just finished putting in a used transmission, I did it in my driveway. It’s not fun, but it’s not too hard either. I modified my floor jack by replacing the standard lift pad with a 12”x24” piece of plywood with some 14gauge steel reinforcement to make it a “transmission jack”. The way I did mine I could bolt the transmission to the jack to move it around. I left the transfer case attached to the transmission to remove it, but installed them separately. The absolute #1 piece of advice I can give is to go to lowes and buy some extra long 1/2” bolts (same as the ones that bolt the trans to the engine). When you re-install the transmission you can use these long bolts to guide the transmission to the perfect angle to get everything to fit together. That way you only have to worry about rotating the transmission shaft to match the splines to the clutch.

 

[captdawson1]

Go to ebay and look for an unbroken assembly that is what I had to do.

 

[Big Bart]

You must be registered for see images attach

I just finished putting in a used transmission, I did it in my driveway. It’s not fun, but it’s not too hard either. I modified my floor jack by replacing the standard lift pad with a 12”x24” piece of plywood with some 14gauge steel reinforcement to make it a “transmission jack”. The way I did mine I could bolt the transmission to the jack to move it around. I left the transfer case attached to the transmission to remove it, but installed them separately. The absolute #1 piece of advice I can give is to go to lowes and buy some extra long 1/2” bolts (same as the ones that bolt the trans to the engine). When you re-install the transmission you can use these long bolts to guide the transmission to the perfect angle to get everything to fit together. That way you only have to worry about rotating the transmission shaft to match the splines to the clutch.

Necessity is the mother of invention!

Nice tip on the longer bolts to line things up.

 

[Jesus Freak]

You must be registered for see images attach

I just finished putting in a used transmission, I did it in my driveway. It’s not fun, but it’s not too hard either. I modified my floor jack by replacing the standard lift pad with a 12”x24” piece of plywood with some 14gauge steel reinforcement to make it a “transmission jack”. The way I did mine I could bolt the transmission to the jack to move it around. I left the transfer case attached to the transmission to remove it, but installed them separately. The absolute #1 piece of advice I can give is to go to lowes and buy some extra long 1/2” bolts (same as the ones that bolt the trans to the engine). When you re-install the transmission you can use these long bolts to guide the transmission to the perfect angle to get everything to fit together. That way you only have to worry about rotating the transmission shaft to match the splines to the clutch.

That contraption looks great Rock! I wouldn't feel uncomfortable at all being under that ZF5, even if it had a transfer case on it.

 

[Sergey]

Go to ebay and look for an unbroken assembly that is what I had to do.

Do you know the part number for this bell housing for 1985 6.9 with T19 ?
On the original one I cannot find it - either it is facing down or somewhere else. Some parts stores seem to have similar bell housing but none are listed for 6.9 engine, and parts rep doesn't if it would fit 6.9 engine and T19

 

[Jesus Freak]

Do you know the part number for this bell housing for 1985 6.9 with T19 ?
On the original one I cannot find it - either it is facing down or somewhere else. Some parts stores seem to have similar bell housing but none are listed for 6.9 engine, and parts rep doesn't if it would fit 6.9 engine and T19

I don't know the part #, but the key to these bell housings is that there's no holes for a starter to bolt to. The big block (460, 429,etc) bell housings are all most the exact same, the top 2 bolts are correct but the middle 2 bolts are about 1/4in off. "They say" you can modify a big block bell housing by having the middle holes drilled to match the diesel pattern and it'll work, but I haven't done that. But if you're looking online or at a junkyard, the telling sign that it's a diesel bell housing is the lack of starter bolt holes.

Edit: I googled it to death, it sounds like it might be impossible to adapt the big block bell housing, so just look for something without starter bolt holes. If you get close to NW Florida, I got a couple.