Sad day and clutch (I thought...)

Sergey

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Hello,
had a bad day, if not worse. First the clutch pedal in my old truck just dropped and stays there (photo 1). Couldn't drive without a clutch, was towed. Upon initial inspection discovered the issue is worse than I could comprehend (photo 2).
Any ideas how to get old truck running within a budget are much appreciated.
Thank you for looking
 

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Nero

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Pull trans and have it welded, or replace it. Odd failure point...
 

Jesus Freak

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I have a T19 tranny that I bought because it's 4wd. The bell housing has the same issue on it. They braced it up with a piece of steel. I'll take a picture when I go up to the carport, maybe that will get your imagination juices flowing.

Edit: there's the pictures, it looks like a good fix, I think angle iron would give more strength. If anything it would buy you time to score another bell housing.
 

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Sergey

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Thank you for the feedback. Removing and putting back transmission with transfer case is not something I could accomplish myself, and unlikely I could pay for labor hours for shop to do it.

The idea of putting a metal reinforcement bar is great. I wish it could be done in place, without removing transmission.
 

Jesus Freak

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The idea of putting a metal reinforcement bar is great. I wish it could be done in place, without removing transmission.
It really looks like a reinforcement could be put in without pulling the tranny. The shifter lever will slide out the side with the boot. It'll be a pain in the neck, but I think it's doable.
 

Black dawg

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a piece of angle iron bolted across the trans to bell bolts, with a bolt in the middle to preload that stud works really good. That bell looks to be to far gone though and should be welded before the support is added.
 

Jesus Freak

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It does look pretty busted up. I tell you what though, since I've seen this on 2 T19s now, when I put mine in with the good bell housing I have I'm going to bolt a piece of angle iron on it for good measure. I guess it's time for the 40yr old cast aluminum to start buckling.
 

Black dawg

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It is a poor design with not enough support there, but it does not usually give trouble until the clutch start getting hard to push...
 

lotzagoodstuff

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I would take a look at everything between the pedal and the clutch fork to see if there's anything worn or binding that added pressure to your bellhousing. If you find something that caused the undue stress, I'd fix it and replace your bellhousing with another one. I'd probably put a clutch in it while it's out as it will never be easier. The original clutch in my old IDI was super stiff, never realized it until the clutch was replaced and it was much "lighter" on the pedal.

Good luck whichever way you end up going.
 

rvitko

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While dropping the transmission may seem daunting, step by step it is fairly easy, just tedious. You first have to remove the crossmember, disconnect both drive shafts, disconnect the linkages, disconnect the speedometer cable and back up light wiring and speed sensor wiring. Drop the T case, remove the slave cylinder and then 6 bolts and the tranny is loose. For about $80 you can get a scissor type transmission jack at Harbor Freight. Whatever you do, doing this part yourself is a huge savings. The transmission shop I used to reseal and go over mine, is basically the guy who does it for the shops, he just doesn't remove them or install them, it was $400 to have it disassembled, checked out and resealed, it would have been 3-4 times that at a regular transmission shop where they dropped everything. If you can get it out and get it to a shop, they can change the front housing, you can get one on eBay right now for about $350, they may even have one, teh shop I went to had tons of damaged cores gutted and just there for parts.
 

rvitko

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I will say, putting it back is not a lot of fun, getting the front spline to mesh and getting the approach angle right gave me fits, took at least 4 hours. Given the time involved, I would tackle the U joints, carrier bearing and grease all the linkage pivots and change the clutch while you are at it, but outside of the spline meshing up, it is not a hard job, just looks daunting.
 

Old Goat

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The trans in question is a T-19? they weight around 150lbs.
You want a good trans jack with a good foot print.

I have this one, and used it putting in a Mercedes trans.
It worked ok but the strap across the top was a P I T A to tighten down. When I bought it, it was $80.


I picked up this one off CL, guy used it one time and just wanted it gone, think I paid $80 for it.
Used it one time to drop my T-19, and worked great, has a larger foot print, and easier to use.


If you are taking the trans out to take to a shop, you will have to have the truck high enough to roll out from under the vehicle.

I have 4 of the 16" Ford factory white steel rims,
then place a 14" Mercedes steel rim on top of it, and use this to elevate the truck.
The 14" rim locks right into the 16" rim and there is no slippage or movement, makes it very stable.
Think I also raised the rear the same way.

Make sure the the ground you are working on is solid, and firm.
Preferably concrete. You want something smooth to roll the jack on. Just be safe.

Not really that big a deal, just unbolting a bunch of junk,
and trying to remember how it goes back together. :dunno

A 2 Post Lift would be the best thing to have...Just saying...;Sweet

Goat
 

Big Bart

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The trans in question is a T-19? they weight around 150lbs.
You want a good trans jack with a good foot print.

I have this one, and used it putting in a Mercedes trans.
It worked ok but the strap across the top was a P I T A to tighten down. When I bought it, it was $80.


I picked up this one off CL, guy used it one time and just wanted it gone, think I paid $80 for it.
Used it one time to drop my T-19, and worked great, has a larger foot print, and easier to use.


If you are taking the trans out to take to a shop, you will have to have the truck high enough to roll out from under the vehicle.

I have 4 of the 16" Ford factory white steel rims,
then place a 14" Mercedes steel rim on top of it, and use this to elevate the truck.
The 14" rim locks right into the 16" rim and there is no slippage or movement, makes it very stable.
Think I also raised the rear the same way.

Make sure the the ground you are working on is solid, and firm.
Preferably concrete. You want something smooth to roll the jack on. Just be safe.

Not really that big a deal, just unbolting a bunch of junk,
and trying to remember how it goes back together. :dunno

A 2 Post Lift would be the best thing to have...Just saying...;Sweet

Goat
Ditto on the 800lb one above. Very stout, wide wheel base, all 4 wheels turn and spin (Unlike a floor Jack.), adjustable top plate, pump handle spins 360* too as I remember. Suggest like Old Goat look for a good used one or look for a HF coupon. These are heavy duty!
 

Big Bart

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Hello,
had a bad day, if not worse. First the clutch pedal in my old truck just dropped and stays there (photo 1). Couldn't drive without a clutch, was towed. Upon initial inspection discovered the issue is worse than I could comprehend (photo 2).
Any ideas how to get old truck running within a budget are much appreciated.
Thank you for looking
Some other thoughts
1) Replace the rear main seal on the engine.
2) As mentioned above do the clutch. (Pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch, and pressure plate. (Likely one or more led to your problem.)
3) Have the tranny shop look at the front input shaft bearing on the tranny while it is apart. Also it is the time to fix any syncro’s that are bad.
4) New tranny fluid.
5) New shift boot if yours is bad.
 

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