Removing 6.9/7.3 Adaptor Plate with Starter

[Old Goat]

I have the T-19 Transmission remove.
Bell Housing.
Pressure Plate and Clutch Disk.
Fly Wheel.
Rear Main Seal rear Plate.
And finally got the %#@* Speedy Seal removed.

Iam looking at the Adaptor Plate, and looks like just 2
large Bolts at the top hold it on...Correct?

Iam thinking of removing them, and drop it down and
out with the Starter (after wires removed).
Is this doable? Or are there Dowel pins to deal with?

Iam thinking of doing this, remove Starter and wash off the oil and other crud off it as well as the Adaptor.
Looks easier than trying to get to the top Bolt on the Starter.

Once done, then throw all the new junk back on before the next storm comes in, and start grinding through the gears

Goat

 

[Jesus Freak]

Sounds heavy, Goat. Probably doable, but the starter and cast iron adapter is gonna be heavy and awkward.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

This is fresh in my head Goat, yes it’s just the two bolts at the top. I would definitely do that to get the top bolt on the starter. Previously I had gotten that bolt with a crows foot wrench.

Definitely recommend the power master 9050 starter if your going to replace. That thing spins nice!

 

[Old Goat]

Yeah It looks awkward. thinking of placing Floor jack under the Starter, have my Wife control it as it comes down.

I do have the 9050 Starter installed. Just thought it would be a good time to pretty her up.
Don`t want a cranky Starter this winter.

I found 2 of the F2TZ-6701-A Rear Main Seal with Speedy Sleeve installed in the rubber seal with the tool to push her into the Rear Plate.
These are NLA from Ford, lucked out a dealer had these laying around.
Hope it goes on easier than old Speedy was coming off.

Speaking of heavy, that dang FW was heavy enough. Used Floor Jack under FW, removed all Bolts except for one. Unscrewed it out almost all the way. Slid FW towards me so it would get just past the exhaust cross over pipe and onto the Jack pad. Then removed bolt and Wife lowered down the Jack.


Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Is this doable? Or are there Dowel pins to deal with?

It's probably doable. Yes there are two dowel pins in the back of the block. They help to hold your bellhousing in place.

Speaking of heavy, that dang FW was heavy enough.

Those aren't all that terrible. Try a DMF one time and yours won't seem so bad.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

I do have the 9050 Starter installed. Just thought it would be a good time to pretty her up.

Unfortunately the valley pan drain seems to drain everything down this adapter plate and it goes right over the starter. It’s definitely an ugly spot if you’ve had some leaks.

 

[Old Goat]

The major leak is the right VC.
That VP drain hole isn`t very big. It is square, the size of a 3/8" Ratchet extension.
No leaks in the pan as far as I have seen when looking in there once in a while.

I have 2 engines in the shop, I`ll take a look at the rear to see what the drain looks like.

Depending on the weather, when I get this project buttoned up. I have the R&D IP and Injectors to install. Be a good time to pull the Intake Manifold and clean up the VP area.


Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

At least it would be a lot easier at that time.

 

[TahoeTom]

I like to use alignment dowels to R&R the flywheel , Replace a couple of the bolts with same thread and heads cut off. No way I could hold it in place to start bolts without them.

 

[Old Goat]

I already have a couple of the old bolt heads cut off and ready for the install.
That FW is one heavy sucker.


Goat