Relocated coolant overflow

[03wr250f]

I am getting ready to install a cold air intake, so in order to make room, I needed to remove the coolant overflow and the windshield washer tank. For this I used a second washer tank and bracket from a junkyard.
I documented this all for the coolant overflow, but I will be doing the same thing for the washer tank tomorrow hopefully, just on the drivers side instead of the passenger side.

I used a washer tank from a idi junkyard truck. It had the plastic tabs broken off of it already. I ended up using it anyway. I used the bracket that held the washer tank and the overflow as a bracket. I then built a strap that went around the washer tank to hold it. I then cut the piece of the bracket that extended over the top off. In doing so I also removed the rivets holding the joint together. I then welded the bracket.
I then drilled holes in the strap in order to bolt it to the bracket. I used the piece of the bracket that bolted to the fenderwell over the overflow as my base that i would later bolt it down with. I then removed the battery tray on the passenger side. I then test fit the bracket and made sure everything would clear with the tray back installed. I then cleaned up the tank. I then used a drill to break out the grating from the top of the tank in order to remove and add fluid easier. I will not be doing that to the washer tank when I relocate it. I then used about 8 feet of 3/8'' ?(I don't remember what size) rubber line to go from the outlet of the washer tank to the radiator. I routed it up to the core support, along the battery cable, then to the radiator outlet.
On the washer tank relocation I didn't have to do as much cutting or modifying, as the plastic tabs are still intact. So I ended up having to bend the bottom of the tab more and drilled a new hole. I also didn't have to cut as much off the top. I was able to leave the rivets without hitting the battery tray. I still welded it up for added stability.
All in all it was pretty simple, and frees up some engine bay real estate. Added benefit is that it is a clear tank, so you can still check and see how the coolant level is. I know 70's vehicles ran without, and I am sure many others do as well. I know that it wont hurt them any, I just wanted to watch my fluid level to know if I ever start using coolant, or start bubbling over. Paranoid side of me.

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Bracket made and welded up

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Bracket and strap to hold the tank in place.

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mock up done and hole drilled. I simply through bolted it with a large washer on both sides. And a lock nut on the bottom.

 

[03wr250f]

Tank strap mounted and tightened.

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Tank all cleaned.

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As you can see I left the bottom piece of plastic on the tank as added support in case it flexes ever.

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I used a drill bit and a utility knife to clean out the top. I then washed it out.

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mounted up and fitted in.
Clears the battery tray, and the cap is still accessible with battery in place. Can fill it easily with one of the long black funnels walmart sells that is like 1.5 ft long. Can also view fluid level from the side profile (looking from the center of the truck towards the fenderwell under the battery.

 

[Sidewinded_idi]

That’s a nice idea but the only issue I ran into with the smaller tank is our coolant systems hold so much fluid any variation it sees with drains the small tank or pukes it out the top. That’s why you notice the idi trucks compared to the gasser have a much larger overflow resevoir

 

[03wr250f]

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Tank for mockup purposes and the other bracket for the drivers side relocation of the actual washer tank.

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marked for cutting and drilling. High accuracy right there.

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[03wr250f]

@Sidewinded_idi Good to know. I only filled it up halfway and also left the 8' of tubing empty when I installed it. I then checked it when i got home, only at operating temp, but it still had 1-2'' left to go before it hit the top. If it really needs to overflow I know it will as the cap is not airtight. I also used all of the fluid that was in my old overflow tank and put it in this one. Granted I only ran about a 1/4 full tank in my stock overflow. Anymore and It would find a way to get down to about 1/4 full. It liked it there. I don't think the tank was cracked, it just like it there. I figured I will run it for a while and see how this works. My thought is the rad will always be full, as compared to running a open line to air rather than into a overflow tank.

 

[Sidewinded_idi]

Ya if your coolant system is in good shape you’ll probably be ok. Mine isn’t so it gets hot and cool so it moves a lot of fluid and I just noticed in the morning it would be sucked dry and when it would get hot and expand it would start to overflow it but again my system isn’t in the best shape! I went back to stock and haven’t had an issue