rear tank does not work

[F-SERI-ouS]

Gentleman,

So i have had no luck figuring this out. If i switch to the rear tank on my truck, it runs for about 30 seconds and then dies. of course i did not know this at first. i am not getting fuel out of it, and there is plenty of fuel in there. anyone have any ideas on the systems on these trucks switch form front or rear tank? i would like to get that rear tank fixed.

on a separate note, any one know about any issues with the HOT head lights onthese trucks? my right headlight assembly keeps melting a little bit everytime i make a long drive at night, i do not know why? also, its only the right side, not the left . . . any ideas?

i have scoured this forum for info on both of these things, but no luck thus far. several of you guys have been EXTREMELY helpful in the past, so i hope some of you guys (c'mon agnem) come to my rescue again. thanks. oh and by the way, this is for the 94 idi.

 

[icanfixall]

Wel it sounds like the fuel tank does not have enough fuel in it but you posted it has plenty of fuel. So whats the level in the tank. anything near 1/4 tank usually means the suction head is broken off and the last 1/4 tank is not able to be sucked out. Now another issue usually means the fuel tank switching valve is not sucking off the because its got some trash causing it to hang up between tanks. you are lucky its still able to work off the other tank if thats the problem. Removing the ftsv is needed to really know if this is the problem there. But please take pics of the valve and lines before you take any off. Each tank has a supply and return line. But only one supply line from the valve to the engine and one return from the engine. Mixing those up will cause problems. The supply is 3/8 and the return is 5/16. The valve has crimped brads holhing it together so drill or grind them off. then use machine screws and nuts to assemble it. Inside the valve is a motor that drives it open or closed to the front or rear tank. Very simple operation but very expensive from ford too. To practice taking this apart find a wrecking yard that allows you to pick a part and then pay. Go in and remove a valve and take it apart there. You will experiment on something that wont keep you sitting on a road somewhere. Or just run on the tank that works and forget all this..

 

[79jasper]

On the headlight two things come to mind.
A: way higher wattage bulb
B: bad ground.

Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk

 

[F-SERI-ouS]

icanfixall, i will start with the tank, and see if the suction head is broke off, since the gauge reads exactly 1/4 tank. depending on whether the other tank has less or more fuel, the needle will go up or down and settle at 1/4. hopefully i do not have to pay for an expensive FTSV. but i probably will, i hate having to fuel up more than once a month!

jasper, i will check the grounds on the harness to body. as far as wattage, what is the correct wattage bulb that is supposed to go in there? maybe i wont even have to check the grounds of the bulbs are the wrong ones.

thanks gentleman! ill keep posting, but on a side note, i have not been able to disengage my 4x4 hubs. i have the auto-locking ones, and it is not that big a deal, but i think that they can be disengaged somehow, and hopefully that will add to my mpg and also stop that weird whining that i think is coming from the t-case at about 70+ mph and the occasional binding when i turn real sharp real fast.

 

[OLDBULL8]

thanks gentleman! ill keep posting, but on a side note, i have not been able to disengage my 4x4 hubs. i have the auto-locking ones, and it is not that big a deal, but i think that they can be disengaged somehow, and hopefully that will add to my mpg and also stop that weird whining that i think is coming from the t-case at about 70+ mph and the occasional binding when i turn real sharp

Get down on your knees and look in at the hubs, it says auto lock - manual, just twist it to manual, use a pair of big pliers if you can't do it by hand. Check the vacuum hose and fitting to the wheels, they deteriorate, could be the o"ring inside the hubs is shot.
This is for the 2002, but it should be the same or close to it.
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/nblube.php

 

[F-SERI-ouS]

i do not have the auto/lock hubs i just have these;

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the pliers will not work, i think there is some other funky way of disengaging them? or am i wrong??? can i just buy some warn hubs and install those?