Rear lift block question

[ROCK HARVEY]

I D60 swapped my 89 f-250 last weekend, and now I’m looking at rear lift blocks to raise the back end since the swap raised the front end by 2ish inches. I’m seeing a lot of conflicting info online regarding whether I should get tapered lift blocks or flat ones.

It appears that at least from 1999 on, trucks with a two piece driveshaft have flat blocks and trucks with a one piece driveshaft (no carrier bearing) have tapered blocks. I don’t know whether that is the case with our trucks though. As near as I can measure my current blocks, they have no taper that I can tell. They are the 2” F250 blocks though, and it’s hard to measure them while they are still installed.

I measured my pinion angles, and my transfer case output is currently parallel to my rear diff input, which I what I would want to maintain right? So if I have flat 2” blocks now I would want flat 4” blocks to maintain the angles.

Is there any chance one of you has a set of stock F-350 4x4 rear blocks you can measure? Especially if they came out of a single cab truck. The truck drives really nice right now and I don’t want to introduce any vibrations by messing up my pinion angles.

 

[Nero]

Not sure about the blocks, but as long as your u joint angles are greater than half a degree and less than 3 degrees you'll be fine. Driveline angle is easy enough to measure with a magnetic protractor.

 

[Overloaded-dadbod]

The super duty blocks are tapered. If your rear springs are shot, or you always have heavy crap in the bed or have a super short wheelbase like me I’d run the tapered blocks if you have a more normal setup I’d run standard block

 

[Overloaded-dadbod]

The super duty blocks are tapered. If your rear springs are shot, or you always have heavy crap in the bed or have a super short wheelbase like me I’d run the tapered blocks if you have a more normal setup I’d run standard