Rear hub to rim interference fit

[dgr]

Anyone know why my rear hub to rim fit is an interference fit? I thought my wheels were rusted to the drums but it appears the little ears in the rim hole are too small for the hub to slide in. It took some serious kicking to get both of them off. Could it be that whomever managed to stretch the lug nuts upset the metal of the rim towards the center of the wheel?

These are original equipment steel wheels. Anyone see a reason a little work with an angle grinder on the rim would do any harm?

 

[John Deere]

Check the date stamp on your wheels, wheels made 85 and prior were for the d60 rear hub and are to small for a sterling 10.25 hub.

Yes the center can be ground since these are lug centering wheels, have done it several times to the older style wheels to make the work as spares for the sterling rearends.

 

[jlwoods99]

Maybe someone else will jump in, but I don't see a problem with a "little massage". Seems to me the nuts will still center it up on the studs. Someone with more experience feel differently?

Jim

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I may be misunderstanding your meaning by "little ears"; but, FORD never had wheels with the "little ears" in the center opening; always a rolled flange-lip.

Look closely at the mounting face of the wheels and I would bet you will see a CHRYSLER emblem.

Those "little ears" were Chrysler's initial attempt at hub-centric wheels and they do fit tight.


Of course, it is hard to make these calls when I don't have the wheels right before my eyes, so my statement may be just so much wasted ink.

 

[John Deere]

I missed the part about the little ears. Yes ford did use these type of wheels in 86 and a few years around it. They did fit tight especially if a little rusty.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Also, the earlier Dana/Fords had a very thick heavy-duty 6-inch-wide wheel.

The Sterling/Fords came with a seven-inch-wide ACCURIDE wheel that is not nearly so stoutly made as the older Firestone/Ford six-inchers.

The ACCURIDEs will be stamped on the outside surface near the valve-stem.

The Firestones are usually stamped only on the inside.

 

[icanfixall]

I found one of my wheels very tight on the hub too so I used a grinding burr to "clean it up" some. Mistake made doing that.... The next time I had that wheel balanced it was never correct again. It would not seat properly on the balance machine hub...

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I found one of my wheels very tight on the hub too so I used a grinding burr to "clean it up" some. Mistake made doing that.... The next time I had that wheel balanced it was never correct again. It would not seat properly on the balance machine hub...

You make a very valid point.

One sometimes does not think far enough ahead when they have a grinder, torch, or big hammer conveniently to hand.

Although many older SRW wheels/hubs are lug-centric and are usually centered via the lug-nuts, most all wheel-balancers, be they good old accurate bubble or fancy bells-and-whistles arbor-mounted computer, center on the hole provided in the wheel.

Trim/grind that wheel center and you lose it's centricity with the mounting-circle and outer rim; no longer can it be balanced on standard equipment.

There are bolt-pattern specific balancers, but their extreme cost keeps them only in the catalog pages and not on shop floors.

 

[Hardass559]

sounds like its time for some newer rims i change alot of tires i dont ballance them i have never had any one complain about them viberating but i get all mine ballanced after wards bc the simpel fact is the tires whear better if ther ballanced but the 85 rims are still sterling rims or at least the 85 that my 6.9 came outta had a sterling in it so 84 and older i leave in the junk yard i have a full set tho for my 78 250 but they will probly never be on the truck once its done but ther are alot of after market rims in junk yards around hear

 

[dgr]

Now I'm more confused :lol the wheels are Stamped a with what looks like 11 86 although the first one could be a letter. They are also stamped with 16 6k DOT and 3045 lbs

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Go to the tire-shop where you are in the habit of spending your money; they should have a big plastic set of wheel-width calipers that are capable of measuring wheel-width with the tire mounted and bolted on the truck.

These calipers look like a set of snaking-tongs, except made of plastic and with a graduated scale.

These calipers also are designed to provide true wheel-width, in that they compensate for the thickness of the rim.


If the wheels measure SIX-inches, then you have the GOOD older wheels (unless they are my earlier suspicion of being Chrysler wheels); if they measure SEVEN-inches, then you have the later Accuride Sterling wheels.

 

[riotwarrior]

.....most all wheel-balancers, be they good old accurate bubble ......

Are you saying that SINCE I have one of these types of balancers myself, I should NOT waste my $$$$ at my local shop and have my wheels balanced? Do them myself and save $$$$$

Just curious cause these 3 legged bubble static balancers where what I learned to balance tyres on!

Just curious...

Oh, I really do not do much speed travel, 110-120 KPH or just 65-70 MPH tops...usually 50-65 MPH....

Running 255/85/16 Toyo M55's on American Eagle rims and one steel till the slightly bent alloy gets professionally repaired HERE http://www.interiorwheelrepair.com/ They say bout 120 bucks to fix it.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Making such statements as I often make is sometimes like throwing gasoline on hot coals; it gets things stirred up.

That being said, no one can deny the accuracy of a bubble floating around in liquid.

If the "sight glass"/bubble has been properly centered prior to use and the wheel is meticulously placed on the centering-cone, then there is no more accurate way of balancing; it can't get out of calibration and it can't get hit by lightening and burn out a circuit-board.

I trust my abilities with a bubble-balancer 100% and I have cured many a problem that the fancy new stuff could not help.




In reality, when installing brand-new tires, 99% of wheel-balancing is a pure waste of time and lead; new tires are either going to run true, or they aren't right to begin with.

I know many will dis-agree.

 

[John Deere]

Yes that is a ford wheel, I am looking at one now with an 85 date stamp. The letters above it are a K1. And in between two of the lug holes is a stamped Ford emblem.

 

[John Deere]

I took a picture of the four different styles of wheels that Ford used throughout the idi's run, but unfortunately I can't upload it from my iphone to the site, so it will wait until I can upload it from my pc.