Rear diff questions

[riotwarrior]

Stud...talk W ARP and perhaps cones. What diff do you have 10.25? Should be cone free.

 

[79jasper]

Yeah, it's a 10.25. Lol

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[79jasper]

Stud on LH side, bolt on RH side.
Both have wedge washers aka cone washer.

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Stud nut is 11/16. Bolt is 5/8.

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[riotwarrior]

Stud on LH side, bolt on RH side.
Both have wedge washers aka cone washer.

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Stud nut is 11/16. Bolt is 5/8.

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So those...are not stock as far I know.

What about replacement stock axles to rid yourself of those?

Are your axles cemtered in hub with an O ring flange????

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Like this one; if not they are not stock as far as I know.

JM7.3CW Eh!

 

[79jasper]

Correct, oring flange.
For now, I picked up some grade 8 bolts.
I'll take a look on arp and see what I can find.

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[FarmerFrank]

Hmmmm those look like 7/16 Pto studs with course and fine thread. They hold the 8 bolt PTO's onto rig transmissions. I have one here that's about 2" long. A truck parts place should be able to hook you up with studs.


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[79jasper]

Could be. Lol
So I ran a tap down the holes, actually went a little further for more thread.
Cleaned up the cones. Chucked up one of the old studs in my drill then used a file and sandpaper to get them smooth again.

I think these bolts will be fine, when I see people shearing them off/loosen up, 9 times out of ten, they're running a locker/LSD. Mine is open, so no worries there.
Grabbed new lock washers too. I think I'll replace the other side also. You know, so they match. Lol
Now I need to find the shaft orings. Which is what started this ordeal with the studs being stripped.

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[riotwarrior]

What would make most sense to me in the long run would be to replace axles and bolts with ones not modified for split cones.... but run whatcha got for now suppose. Then field repair is easier with stock parts rather than modified stuff.

JM7.3CW Eh !

 

[79jasper]

Yeah, most of the time. Lol
The cones don't bother me. Seems to work fine, just needed new bolts/studs.
Being a C&C, be a little harder to find axles. Though once I get home to Oklahoma, the PO has a whole rear he "thinks" came out of it.
I do wonder if this could be from a different truck. Just weird that the gears match, casting numbers match for ford also.
Closest I could find in the arp catalog was 250-3008, about a half inch too long. So I sent dimensions in an email.

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[Thewespaul]

I think these bolts will be fine, when I see people shearing them off/loosen up, 9 times out of ten, they're running a locker/LSD. Mine is open, so no worries there.

I sheared mine on my sterling 10.25 on my N/A truck

just sayin

 

[79jasper]

If anyone is interested, ARP got back to me.
They came up with AP2.090-1SB.
From my research, looks like they aren't made anymore.
Everyone is out of stock, but priced about $7 each for stud only.

I'm finding some grade 8 studs though.
Tacomascrew 183-005

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[79jasper]

ARP does stock them. They're just from another "kit."
$4.22 per stud only.

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[79jasper]

For reference, here's the oring I got.

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Put in some gear oil. Didn't lose much.

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[IDIoit]

Jasper, did these seals work for you?
both of my rear seals are leaking like a ****, they are new, but I suspect I got the incorrect part, maybe for a SD?

 

[79jasper]

No leaking yet.

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