Rear brake woes - emergency brake related

[jtt220]

I've search and found some information that addresses the issue I'm experiencing with my rear brakes, but the info was inconclusive and I think a new thread is warranted. If I'm wrong, feel free to link me.

Issue:
Rear brakes are grabbing too quickly, causing the rear axle to "lock up" before the front brakes are used to their full potential.

I took the truck to a local shop to have them take a peek, describing the issue to them as a "brake bias" problem. They called back today and said that the emergency brake cables are "pulled out" from the rear drums, possibly causing the issue. The mechanic described to me that he would first have to get a hold of some factory e-brake cables before tearing into the rear brakes, which he described as a very involved process resulting in around $1000 worth of work.:***:

That seems excessive. I've never worked on this truck's brakes, but I've done plenty of brake jobs on other vehicles and don't recall rear drums being too difficult.

So two part question:
1) I've heard that only a specific cable (sans plastic sheath) is proper for these rigs. Does anyone have a line on a good source for right e-brake cables?

2) My truck has been converted to dually rear wheels and I'm sure this complicates things a bit, but how difficult is the job of replacing cables and adjusting the rear brakes? Should I be doing any other PM while I'm in there? Does anyone have a write-up prepared from their similar experience?


Thanks in advance

BTW - My rig is an '86 F250, converted to dual rear wheels. It has the Sterling 10.25 I believe.

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum first off. Now finding the cable you described is the next issue. I have not heard of a plastic wraped cable but they might be out there too so I feel maybe if you check out the Uhaul web site they may have what you want. They have been selling of much of their idi stock because its cheaper to sell it at a loss than it is to move it all to one location like they are doing. Ebay is a great place to look around for what you want. As for the brake job.. Thats not a big deal. Just remove the wheels and pull off the drums. Then look closely at the self adjusters. Someone before you may have installed the drivers side on the passenger side and they tighten up as you drive and brake. Also any dually rear end has a weight proportioning valve in the rear brakes. Its a valve that bolted to the differantial housing and looks to be part of the breather. The flexiable brake hose enters it and it has a lever that attaches to the frame rail. As the truck weighs down with a load it changes the rear brakeing amount. If you don't have that vlave you will have 100% brakeing no matter what load is on the truck. Hope this helps you out.

 

[riotwarrior]

jtt220,

Ok so for all intents and such, I suspect you may have a Dana 70 rear end which should be in that model year, as opposed to the Sterling 10.25 for newer trucks.

You mentioned that the truck was changed to duals, how has that been done? dually adapters or with a rear end swap where a correct dually rear diff was swapped under the truck?

Also, have you tried doing any adjustments what so ever, ie slacken off the shoes a bit?

If the rear end was swapped and the time/money not put into swapping over the proportioning valve, or the correct cables (if there actually is a difference) then that could be part...part of the problem.

First you need to let us know a few more details on how the truck was converted, adapters or rear diff swap.

Second, what rear end is in the truck that's also needed to help you out. Sterling or Dana diffs though functionally are nearly identical, the drums remove differently.

So help us with a bit more info and such, as much as you can and we can work at helping you more!



If

 

[jtt220]

Thanks for the info icanfixall! I'll look for the valve you speak of...

Insofar as the e-brake cable; I've heard to steer clear of the ones with plastic sheathing. Maybe I'm not explaining that well. I'll look to see if I can find some examples...

 

[jtt220]

You mentioned that the truck was changed to duals, how has that been done? dually adapters or with a rear end swap where a correct dually rear diff was swapped under the truck?

Also, have you tried doing any adjustments what so ever, ie slacken off the shoes a bit?

...

First you need to let us know a few more details on how the truck was converted, adapters or rear diff swap.

Second, what rear end is in the truck that's also needed to help you out. Sterling or Dana diffs though functionally are nearly identical, the drums remove differently.

So help us with a bit more info and such, as much as you can and we can work at helping you more!
If

Alright, I'll dig up this information and post it up here. Thanks for the insight!

It may take me two days to get it all... Gotta pay those bills you know!

 

[riotwarrior]

My experience is that the sheathed ones work well...I've had both and find the sheathed ones less problematic than the old school style. Seems that the sheathed ones can actually work well in winter with less chance of freeze up..

JM2CW but it's free...

 

[sassyrel]

The mechanic described to me that he would first have to get a hold of some factory e-brake cables before tearing into the rear brakes, which he described as a very involved process resulting in around $1000 worth of work.:***:

STAY AWAY,, from that shop!!!!! good lord,,those must be gold plated cables they want to use!!!! they are trying to give you a good screwing,,with no lube!!!! if youve done brakes before,,do them yourself,,and as said,,make sure the adjusters are on the correct side!!

 

[redmondjp]

The mechanic described to me that he would first have to get a hold of some factory e-brake cables before tearing into the rear brakes, which he described as a very involved process resulting in around $1000 worth of work.:***:

STAY AWAY,, from that shop!!!!! good lord,,those must be gold plated cables they want to use!!!! they are trying to give you a good screwing,,with no lube!!!! if youve done brakes before,,do them yourself,,and as said,,make sure the adjusters are on the correct side!!

Well, what COULD be the case is that the E-brake cables are rusted or bound up and are not allowing the brakes to fully release. I concur that I would try to look into this myself (and need to do so on my truck - I have the exact same problem as the OP).

And as posted above, I've also had very good service from the plastic-coated inner cables - they do resist corrosion better.

 

[sassyrel]

The mechanic described to me that he would first have to get a hold of some factory e-brake cables before tearing into the rear brakes, which he described as a very involved process resulting in around $1000 worth of work.:***: Well, what COULD be the case is that the E-brake cables are rusted or bound up and are not allowing the brakes to fully release. I concur that I would try to look into this myself (and need to do so on my truck - I have the exact same problem as the OP).

And as posted above, I've also had very good service from the plastic-coated inner cables - they do resist corrosion better.

dont believe i was arguing with him..........

 

[Simp5782]

sounds like the proportioning valve is going on there is contamination in the line causing it to lock up.

 

[Diesel_brad]

Ford is the ONLY place I buy E-brake cables. And I just put them on my 97 which is the same as your 86(sterling 10.25 axle) About $50 a piece and about a hour to 1.5 hour job from start to finish. NO WAY $1000 repair, even for a dealer

 

[Simp5782]

Ford is the ONLY place I buy E-brake cables. And I just put them on my 97 which is the same as your 86(sterling 10.25 axle) About $50 a piece and about a hour to 1.5 hour job from start to finish. NO WAY $1000 repair, even for a dealer

The $1000 repair is the way to go Brad, especially if getting anally ***** with no lube is something you enjoy

 

[Diesel_brad]

The $1000 repair is the way to go Brad, especially if getting anally ***** with no lube is something you enjoy

 

[jtt220]

I'm picking the truck up this afternoon and I'll take a look at how the dually conversion was done, if I have a proportioning valve and its functionality, and the orientation of the self adjusters. How can I tell if they've been swapped (passenger to driver and vice-versa)?

We'll see where that leads us...

 

[Wyreth]

I had a similar problem with my 65 mustang, the rears would lock if you sneezed on the pedal. It turned out to be the shoe springs and hardware had died.

As for the self adjusters, I've not been into the brakes on a dana or sterling. However on my mustang there was a paddle that locks grabs the star gear. When the paddle pushes the star gear down, the adjuster should unthread. (get longer) if it screws in, then it's the one for the other side. (photo to try and help my bad explanation)





Photo from http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/suspension/mufp_0704_brake_system/photo_16.html