Rear axle yoke question

Exekiel69

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On My 93 the rear axle yoke has a little play on the Ujoint end of business, the yoke is not worn out nor it allows any oil to leak past it but I installed a new U joint and I can see the U joint moving about 1/16" side to side inside the caps and the old one was doing the same thing. I though maybe I have the wrong U joint but I can't confirm that, I did ask specifically for the rear U joint.
I'm thinking the problem is the Yoke on the rear axle, so if I remove the old yoke to install a new one will I have to re-set th ring and pinion on the axle? I'm not sure if this year came with a crush sleeve. I have a vibration from 67mph and up, I'd like to eliminate this problem just to confirm it is not the cause of it.

Also, where is a good place to get a yoke for the 93 f350 DRW rear axle?

Thanks.
 

Black dawg

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what brand u joint? I have seen this lots lately with non spicer joints.
 

riotwarrior

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Hi,

Had the same issue with the yoke on my drive shaft...I compared the tabs on it to another rear diff I had. The one where the U joint was loose had ONE tab that was worn out beat if you will...from the inside as if the ujoint had hammered it.

I too put a new ujoint in and it still had the vibration.

Knowing I could swap yokes if need be, I just did the nasty...I hammered the small tab inwards till it contacted my ujoint...it worked.

The truck will be getting the spare diff in short order, once the new brakes and the locker are installed. Knowing this, I elected the master HAMMER method.

It is a crush sleeve axle, and you won't need to setup the R & P again. However a New crush sleeve is advised, and while in there install a new seal.

As for a good yoke, FORD, or maybe a wrecker...be carefull there are two depths of yokes for the long and short shaft pinions. You likely have a short shaft if it's a 93 though I am not certain of this.

Make sure you clean the pinion shaft threads extremely well and use loktite RED and make sure there is sufficient on there to stop that nut from backing off! Maybe stake it too with a centre punch....
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I have had several yokes to wear out over my many years/miles of driving.

The yoke will appear perfect, yet the little tabs/ears will be worn a bit; this allows the U-joint to slip back-and-forth as you describe.

I have temporarily corrected this by strategic application of very thin washers, pop-can metal, and such, whenever time/money/availability has prevented installing a new yoke.

The problem is usually first to show up on the rear-most yoke, but I have had it to also happen on the forward yoke.
 

Exekiel69

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Anyone have a spicer part # for the yoke and U joint? I don't remember seeing a # on the old yoke but I'll check. I'd like to get those instead of the other brands. Thanks again.
 

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