Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

jhenegh

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laserjock

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laser, I am looking for diagonals of the windshield frame, top and bottom of A pillars from the outside basicaly.
Also overall width top and bottom. see the MS pic, if you could put the number to the appropriate letter would be a huge help!
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Do you want inside the frame measurements or outside the frame measurements or just measurements of the glass itself?

For the B pillar measurement, do you want drip rail to drip rail or ??? I want to say there is a seam at the top of the b-pillar but I'm not looking at it at the moment.

The door pin to door pin you mean the latch side with the b pillars right? With your fire wall damage I wasn't sure from the pic. I'll see if I can get them tonight. Worst case I'm off tomorrow. If nobody beats me to it.
 

junk

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That passenger fender could be butchered up to give door hinge access while you work on it. Would hold batteries and stuff up still.
 

Greg5OH

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^ good idea ill cut the rest out to get to the firewall/apilla rarea.

Laser, yes i want inside of the frame measurement-i can adjsst the outside later for aesthetics.

yes drip rail to drip rail.
yes latch to latch inside the cab
please and thank you.


jhenegh, how did you find all that, perfect! rears doors for 75 pretty close to me, ill see fi the columbus guy comes up here at all, as cutting up a cab would be awesome!
 

Greg5OH

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HUGE thank you for the port huron listing, hes letting me cut up the cab for the entire right side clip, and with the door 150$. yup!! my buddy is coming to give me a hand, well have that thing cut out and done by lunch time. Taking my truck up there since its only thign big enough to carry it. duct tape the windshield , ratchet strap the door and off we go.
its goign to be in the single digits on sunday too...great!
PS autozone warranited my radiator so im popping the new one in today.
 

Greg5OH

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now...I will look up laserjocks methiod of removing the window trim..but how does one go about removing the actualy windshield???

nvm,youtube. goign to HF to pick up the windshield removal kit for 18 bucks.

Im toying with the idea to do brazing on the roof. got a bunch of brazing tips, jsut need to fill my oxy tank. Thats a looong cut and weld to make...brazing woudl seal it up nice and much lwoer heat, so wont keep blowing out.
 
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jhenegh

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HUGE thank you for the port huron listing, hes letting me cut up the cab for the entire right side clip, and with the door 150$. yup!! my buddy is coming to give me a hand, well have that thing cut out and done by lunch time. Taking my truck up there since its only thign big enough to carry it. duct tape the windshield , ratchet strap the door and off we go.
its goign to be in the single digits on sunday too...great!
PS autozone warranited my radiator so im popping the new one in today.

Hell ya!
 

laserjock

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laser, I am looking for diagonals of the windshield frame, top and bottom of A pillars from the outside basicaly.
Also overall width top and bottom. see the MS pic, if you could put the number to the appropriate letter would be a huge help!
You must be registered for see images attach

A diagonals from roof to pilar seem to point of pilar at cowl are 68 3/8". Note this is with steel tape laying flat on the glass so the curvature of the windshield is involved.

B same as A. Actually measured to confirm

C 23.5 measuring the glass. 24 3/8 measuring the frame at the first windshield clip on top and bottom.

D 70.75 point to point on the A pillar where it meets the cowl. 69.625 at the glass. Remember this is running with the contour of the glass. I laid the tape flat on the glass using the black bar at the bottom as a guide to make the contour line.

Top of windshield (no letter green) 58.75 roof seam to roof seam where they meet the A pilar. Same here tape flat against the windshield.

E 65.25 from the second trim clip down with windshield curvature. This is frame to frame.

F. 61.75 drip rail to drip rail. Stretched across the top measured to outside of rails.

G. 71.5 striker to striker. Note tape was bent slightly on the ends because of the door seal lip. Lip to lip is 66.5 at striker height.

One more. Door frame lip to door frame lip (driver to pass) from seatbelt mount height is 59.75"

That gets you another point to square the B pilar.

I'll fill it in as I get it.
 
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Greg5OH

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haled half a cab home today lol. Got the rear door too it is power, im going to convert it to manual though just so match. Keep the power stuff for hen I do eventually go power windows


9F out today, had 2 sheet sof cardboard on it, but wind was still getting through the windshield, oh well wasnt too bad .
Rear part of the roof is actiually jacked up on it.looks liek i can just push it out..worse part is the windshield area where the glue would normally be in is all rusty. Seems to be solid though at least. whire weel, rust converter, paint and should be ok... Nothings ever ez.. oh well, least i got a good deal on a huge chunk of crewcab, shoud make my repair much more "easy"
I completely remade the A B and C pillars 4 years ago when i first go tthe truck out of scratch, so grafting these ones on shoul dbe no big deal.
That russian Alex guy on youtube junk recommended has some awesome tips on how to get the perfect body line when grafting 2 pieces.

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junk

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That's awesome man. You got a great haul!! yeah get some access on the truck and start piecing it in. It will be some work, but should turn out awesome.

Keep us up to date. I love body work! I'm all giddy to see how this goes.

That guy on Youtube is crazy. I'd be interested to see what a US body guy would say to his methods. But I'd drive his stuff when done. I'm guessing most of his cars come from the US.

Jeremy
 

LCAM-01XA

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I love body work!
You can have it all as far as I'm concerned. Give me engine and transmission swaps, axle work, suspension, tearing into transfer cases and all that "hard" work all day any day!!! Bumper and frame fab stuff as well :D But body work... no thanks, I'd rather not LOL
 

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