Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[Greg5OH]

more pics. last one really shows how much it got pushed in. at least the bottom/floor is ok

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[Greg5OH]

got a line on a passenger door for 45 bucks from a 94 f150.. all the same doors though. Just gotta find the mirror now and the rear door..still opens though!

 

[laserjock]

I think I have a passenger side mirror like that... wait... maybe it's a driver... one of them is the cheap knock off and I can't remember which it was now. I'll have to look.

 

[Greg5OH]

called all the colleges, apparantly they dont work on customer cars anymore these days. sucks.
what you think about my plan? Wrap cahin aroudn the B pillar-or possible thru it? put a metal plate behind it near the top, put my hi lift in between it and a tree on teh right hand side, and basically pull it straight outwards? Im hoping 90% of the shape is restored this way...A pillar, may have to gouge out some of the windshield and wrap chain around the top part and yank on that one too..

 

[laserjock]

I think that's going to be real hard to get straight. Might try like a chain fall and a tree. Something you can go slow and watch what's happening.

 

[crash-harris]

Looks like you have to pull more than just the top of the B pillar back out. Enough of it farther down has moved inward to cant the bottom, back corner of the rear door out. The lower hinge area may have moved some.

What geometry would suggest would be to pull the B pillar straight out while simultaneously pulling the A and C pillars out at a angle. Although I acknowledge that's much easier said than done.

 

[Greg5OH]

tru. well..aint tnothign to it but to do it.
as long as my windows seal, doors seal and windshield seals, and doens tlook like its evidently been in a wreck. Ill be ok with some bent sheet metal.
I shall as soon as I can what we are dealing with

 

[Greg5OH]

Crash- a 2 or 3 point pull would be ideal. I have 2 come alongs and one hi lift 60" jack

the jack would go top of the B pillar for a linear pull, and ideally have a tree that is infront of the A pillar, set up the come along to that tree to pull it out at a 45 degree or so, pull it forward and out. move each a little at a time (1 " minimum stroke on the hi lift)

if tht doesn twork, may have to get a porta power and some long rod extensions to push off of trees to force the upper corners of the A and C pillars out.
Try to work backwards from how the impact occured.

In my mind easier said and done, Im sure it will not be easy though! looking forward to the challenge and experience, just trying to minimize the dollars spent!

 

[LCAM-01XA]

So, no truck work this winter, huh? You just had to go ahead and jinx yourself...

Heads up, don't buy a '92-'97 cab, unless you wanna swap over to the OBS style dash. Bulkhead connector for the harness won't match up either. Basically you're looking for a '87-'91 cab for direct fit with least amount of work.

BTW it will be hard to pull the top of that B-pillar straight out, due to its height. The point where you wanna hook up is good 7ft off the ground on your truck, that will make for some interesting rigging angles if you anchor point is close to the ground...

 

[laserjock]

It's going to be interesting but you might try a little tension on it and then a BFH and wood block from the inside. It's going to be springing because of the suspension. You may end up rolling the truck up on two wheels before the pillar moves. It will be hard to hold the truck still while trying to pull on one side without bending something else.


I really wish you best of luck, but I would be looking for a cab down south. You redid the wiring and stuff so harness may not be an issue for you but you will basically have to cut your custom floor out and swap it into whatever cab you can put it on since you are on an 06 chassis.

Sorry man. It sucks. I really enjoyed watching your build and the ride along videos have been very motivational.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Oh yes, I think the block of wood and BFH treatment will be mandatory. At least on top of the roof to beat it down mostly flat again while you apply outwards pressure onto the top of the B-pillar.

 

[Greg5OH]

laser you make it sound like its totally dead and getting scrapped/sold! no way! worst case I get a new cab. Thing is though, probably no point even getting a southern cab since i have to do a bunch of cutting to it anyway. Im scared that ill have to chop up the firewall to clear my turbo and exhaust, pretty sure my custom cab sat higher than a factory cab.
Good point baout the jack trying to drag the truck, especially since itssitting on snow. I foudn two solid trees about 12-14' apart in my backyard. i think i have enough room to get the truck right in between them. figure ill use the come along on one side and hold the other side eof the B pillar (driver) and try to keep the tension on it towards the ground at a 45 deg angle so the stress is distributed through the floor some- then do the linear pull using the other tree at the broken B pillar. The part that worries me the post is actualyl th ebottom of the a pillar. Inside you can see that whoel area was pushed in, tAbout an inch gap between the dash and firewall exists now. oo buddy.
In my mind-if i had a frame machine id just attach here here here and here, pull and presto lol

Any ideas how much a body shop would harge just to bend this back into place? no welding painting or anything like that. purely just bend it back, if they need to cut stuff out id weld it back. There are two collision shops relatively close to me, i will see if they can give an estimate based off pics.

 

[pafixitman]

Greg, On my Elantra the shop is charging $50 an hour for frame labor. Of course this is through the other drivers insurance company. Not sure what a cash deal would be.

I would talk to them. You may have to remove the doors etc, but let them put it on the rack and square it up for ya.

On my Elantra I think the frame labor is just to make sure it is true after they R&R the trunk floor.

 

[IDIoit]

contrary to LCAM, i would purchase the OBS cab.
two ways you can do this....
you can swap the whole cab,
changing to OBS engine harness,
or
just using the stuff from the OBS, cutting out the entire side of the truck and putting it on yours.

i wouldnt just bend back, thats pretty heavy damage.
i know you put alot of work into her, and it pains the soul to do so, but i would simply swap cabs and be done with it.

alot less work in swapping cabs.
with some mods, you can always re-install the bricknose dash and part of the firewall to retain the brick nose stuff.
IMO i would just swap to the OBS stuff...

if you still want numbers on the body, i may have time to do it today....

 

[Greg5OH]

numbers would be good still please.

it definitly isnt as easy as just swapping cabs. firewall/floor probably needs to be altered, most likely need to make spacers for the cab (ez), harnesses im not concered with its all custom i can pass it through any hole. rear body mounts need to be modified either put them inboard of the frame OBS style, or cut the cab and use the SD style. also either add the center cab supports or just not use them. Id like to use my bricknose interior stuff, i hate the OBS dash.
which remidns me i need a new red bricknose A pillar cover! thsi one cracked, and my beautiful woodgrain steering wheel is also bent/cracked from the impact ( i loved that wheel i was starting to work it in.
Cutting out the side could very well work and probably be the "easiest" . I dont have the large outdoor space and gantry crane available to pull teh cab off anymore, the ceiling height is too small in the shop to be able to pull this off...maybe if i put small tires on it it would juuust clear. I know the gantry was 10 feet, and my ceiling height is 10.5. might work..

got my buddies loaner truck right now, blew a brake line going to work yay so more work tonight to fix that, moneys tight right now so no cab purchasing any time soon0but its probably not going anywhere either.