....whats that rusty brown thing between the trans and engine....???Just askin
Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build
- Thread starter Greg5OH
- Start date
....whats that rusty brown thing between the trans and engine....???Just askin
going to slap some paint on er later on with a brush, same with the starter and oil cooler. Just didnt have time to degrease them, paint, wait to dry then bolt up and put engine in.
What I am mad about, i ordered an oil cooler mounting gasket sert off rock auto liek 3 weeks ago, go to mount the cooler, open the box and its liek 6 sets of o rings and no gaskets!! didnt hav eitme to wait for the proper part so I used RTV on it...im always scared the rtv that gets pushed inside the passages will break off and block a tube...
It will probably be fine but it sjust not right. Well...at least the oil coole is easy to remove in my truck now!
What I am mad about, i ordered an oil cooler mounting gasket sert off rock auto liek 3 weeks ago, go to mount the cooler, open the box and its liek 6 sets of o rings and no gaskets!! didnt hav eitme to wait for the proper part so I used RTV on it...im always scared the rtv that gets pushed inside the passages will break off and block a tube...
It will probably be fine but it sjust not right. Well...at least the oil coole is easy to remove in my truck now!
while youre ordering parts, order a new keyboard, will ya? lol
can you find me one that sfor the visually impared with huge keys? my fingers fumble 3 keys at a time lol.
well, im pretty friggin happy, jsut saved myself about 500 bucks. I got an 05 CC auto shaft because id save myself about 100$ in not havingt to make the rear shaft, since its the same flange mount on the rear, already 14010 U joint and its a 3.5" shaft. The autpo shaft has a bout a 2' front part of it. by eye..it looked aweful close to what my tcase to hanger bearing distance is. I get home...24" center of hanger to center of u joint..
T case to hanger mount on my truck is. 24" exactly!!! just put dumb luck. Super happy, jsut saved myself like 500 bucks. and the hanger and u joints are all nice and tight in this shaft, so its literaly just bolt it in and run it! Just gottaget my front shaft extended about 6".
quick pic of the trans cross memebr bottom. today im working on the removable triangulation peices.
well, im pretty friggin happy, jsut saved myself about 500 bucks. I got an 05 CC auto shaft because id save myself about 100$ in not havingt to make the rear shaft, since its the same flange mount on the rear, already 14010 U joint and its a 3.5" shaft. The autpo shaft has a bout a 2' front part of it. by eye..it looked aweful close to what my tcase to hanger bearing distance is. I get home...24" center of hanger to center of u joint..
T case to hanger mount on my truck is. 24" exactly!!! just put dumb luck. Super happy, jsut saved myself like 500 bucks. and the hanger and u joints are all nice and tight in this shaft, so its literaly just bolt it in and run it! Just gottaget my front shaft extended about 6".
quick pic of the trans cross memebr bottom. today im working on the removable triangulation peices.
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indeed. im goign to be fitting the cab again tomorrow, now im just hoping the floor clears the tcase! it should by an inch if my measuremnets are correct...but, well see tomorrow! its right under the front seat so worst case i just cut the floor and make a little hump to clear it. I can then get measurmenets for my shifter cables which these ones i am convinced are too short, and mount them. JB fab has been awesome to deal with. Im thinkgin of mountign the t case shifter on the left siude the driver seat. Just easier to moute the cables that way and leaves more room in the center for a cool custom console.
floor center brace hit the tcase. no biggie i cut it out and will make a cap for it. the cab mounts lined up perfect, cab is all square. Just going to lift it one more time on sunday/monday to tighten the T case bolts.
witht eh turbo area..a hood stack looks real appetizing, 3" DP will be a tight squeeze.
no work this weekend, heading to canada to visit family. my back needs a break any how.
myt headlights. 4.75" Hellas. inners are running 55/65 optilux extreme yellow, outers are using 55/100w, all euro beam.
witht eh turbo area..a hood stack looks real appetizing, 3" DP will be a tight squeeze.
no work this weekend, heading to canada to visit family. my back needs a break any how.
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myt headlights. 4.75" Hellas. inners are running 55/65 optilux extreme yellow, outers are using 55/100w, all euro beam.
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no new pictures to update. i got back in late sunday, my bakc is still seized up pretty bad so progress is slow. i sealed the passneger valve cover yeasterday, realized my tcase wasn tsitting right so i unbolted and rebolted it, put 3/6 body mount bolt sin and realized i ran out of washers. Tonight im degreasing and painting my injection pump and putting new injectors in. This will probably take me the whole evneing. Going to take the front flange yoke off the rear driveshaft and hopefully bolt that on too.
getting some white oak delivered to my house for the flatbed decking. 160 bucks for 2"x6"x9' 12 peices.
good price but going to be frikken heavy though. Especially since its green wood.
The price will be a little bit less since thats the OD of the bed not the inner part that needs decking.
good price but going to be frikken heavy though. Especially since its green wood.
The price will be a little bit less since thats the OD of the bed not the inner part that needs decking.
Word of caution on the treated stuff, it will rot your bed frame. Make sure you get a good paint job on your sub frame if you go that route. Fasteners and hardware corrodes pretty quick when it's in contact with it. Yeah it's done all the time on trailers but the bolts always rust on them first thing.
FYSA galvanized hardware can be used in direct contact with treated wood. A zinc-rich paint would offer some protection on your frame, but the zinc is just a sacrificial layer.
You don't really need pressure treated wood for your bed. It's primarily for direct soil applications, permanently damp areas, insect resiliency, and rot resistance.
You don't really need pressure treated wood for your bed. It's primarily for direct soil applications, permanently damp areas, insect resiliency, and rot resistance.
i pulled the trigger on the white oak. 168 bucks delivered I think thats a good price. just going to be HEAVY.
quick text update, been workign on the fuel tank holder for a while, i got the fornt moutns tacked in place, and im hoping to have it completely done tonight. then pull it one last time for painting, have it bolted back permenantly once the decking is done. pretty easy to remove the way i set it up, the 14gauge carcass has some 1/8" tick 1" angle iron running under it liek straps, which are welded to some 3/16" 2.5" wide tabs which are gusseted, they mate up flat with similar tabs on the flatbed.
Im still realy considering doing front springer mounts for the flatbed so it can remain flat while the frame twists in the middle.
quick text update, been workign on the fuel tank holder for a while, i got the fornt moutns tacked in place, and im hoping to have it completely done tonight. then pull it one last time for painting, have it bolted back permenantly once the decking is done. pretty easy to remove the way i set it up, the 14gauge carcass has some 1/8" tick 1" angle iron running under it liek straps, which are welded to some 3/16" 2.5" wide tabs which are gusseted, they mate up flat with similar tabs on the flatbed.
Im still realy considering doing front springer mounts for the flatbed so it can remain flat while the frame twists in the middle.
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