Radiator eBay/Mail Order?

HammerDown

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Anyone have experience, feedback or suggestions for radiator sellers on eBay or other mail shippers such as the the below?
Reason, though not overheating/leaking etc my 18 year old radiator has significant scale build-up and I'm considering replacing it.
Since OE, this is number two radiator, I purchased and installed from a local radiator retailer/repair shop.
Thanks for any feedback.

*Not looking for any fancy pants, performance, titanium plated Rad...just OE equivalent.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130969396807?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
 

mjs2011

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Plus one in the campion, though I bought mine from lead foot racing and paid a bit more. ***! Why didn't I check amazon...

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HammerDown

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Thanks for the "Champion" suggestions.
Question...will this be a direct 'drop/bolt-in' RAD or will it require some modifications?
 

mjs2011

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Everything about it is bolt in, even the fan shroud, though you will want to check the rad cap on the champion. Mine said 1.1 which is a 16 psi cap, I switched it to a 13 after my water pump started leaking.

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HammerDown

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Thanks for the "Champ" feedback.

I visited my old mom & pop radiator joint (Paul's Radiator-since 1957)...the old timer came out, looked at my/his ole radiator and said..."if it ain't overheating or leaking leave it alone"...and..."copper brass, don't make'em like that anymore, the new SMALLER aluminum replacement is ok I guess, but it ain't brass/copper > if ya want, I can re-core that, be about $500"

I think this old timer really likes brass/copper!
 

chris142

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My American Eagle 2 row sprung a leak. coming right out of one of the welds on the side of the tank. I had to buy another one and then get my money back when they get my old one and determine the cause of the leak was not me. Plus I have to pay shipping to ship the old one back. Ups Wants 42 dollars to ship it
 

HammerDown

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My American Eagle 2 row sprung a leak. coming right out of one of the welds on the side of the tank. I had to buy another one and then get my money back when they get my old one and determine the cause of the leak was not me. Plus I have to pay shipping to ship the old one back. Ups Wants 42 dollars to ship it
That sucks, both for your time aggravation AND, that you have to pay return shipping on a bad part.
Was this under a warranty period, or after?
BTW...the old timer told me HOW they test to see how clogged a rad may be > remove the top and bottom rad hoses, cap top and bottom hose ports with a plug, fill the rad with water then, remove the lower plug.
If the water exits in about a +6" solid stream it's in good shape.
If it exits in a sloppy type dribble fashion it's all clogged-up.
Hi tech and scientific test, but it makes sense!
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Anyone have experience, feedback or suggestions for radiator sellers on eBay or other mail shippers such as the the below?
Reason, though not overheating/leaking etc my 18 year old radiator has significant scale build-up and I'm considering replacing it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130969396807?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

If your radiator is getting a little scale build up but the outside is still good, and the fins aren't corroded or soft, I'd consider the "backyard radiator boil" as my buddy likes to call it. I've taken several gasser radiators out, laid them on the ground flat, filled them with some muratic acid (yes you can still buy it, you just have to look harder than in the past) let it sit for a spell (usually not more than three beers on a hot day, more if it's cold out) and then dump out the contents on something you don't like (I prefer weeds in a gravel driveway) and then flush with a hose and look at your "refreshed" radiator. I know these radiators are large and heavy, but if you got more time than money give it a shot. I think muratic acid is still less than ten bucks a gallon, and although I wouldn't circulate it your cooling system (I always thought it was bad on seals) and make sure to wear gloves and pay attention to the fumes that come off of the acid.
 

icanfixall

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What % of muratic acid to water are you using. I once worked at a chemical refinery. We stored H2SO4 in a carbon steel tank. Never a problem till some fool took delievery of a less than 98% acid. It ate thru the tank at the level on top of the acid. H2SO4 in pure consentration is not corrosive to metal like battewry acid is. Battery acid is only around 6% H2SO4.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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I believe the stuff you buy in stores is about 30ish percent, typically I dilute it even more. If you want to epoxy the floor in your garage, thrown away the stuff they give you to etch the floor and use some muratic acid. Remember again its pretty caustic, the fumes can be nasty, and that if you are really concerned you can neutralize it with baking soda when you are done.
 

ghunt

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FWIW, while not a truck, on my old Thunderbird (years ago) I replaced the original 20-some year old copper & brass 2-row radiator with a copper & brass 3-row '93 cobra replica radiator that I got from ebay. It was Chinese, heavy as hell, and after it was all said and done did not cool any better than the original radiator because the car would still get really hot in stop & go traffic, even with two 12" fans. Looking back on it I kinda wish I would have just gotten an aluminum radiator.

Nowadays I have the hookup, my wife's dad owns a radiator shop ;Sweet
 

chris142

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Getting hot at slow speeds is an airflow problem. The biggest radiator made wont cool with out air going through it.
FWIW, while not a truck, on my old Thunderbird (years ago) I replaced the original 20-some year old copper & brass 2-row radiator with a copper & brass 3-row '93 cobra replica radiator that I got from ebay. It was Chinese, heavy as hell, and after it was all said and done did not cool any better than the original radiator because the car would still get really hot in stop & go traffic, even with two 12" fans. Looking back on it I kinda wish I would have just gotten an aluminum radiator.

Nowadays I have the hookup, my wife's dad owns a radiator shop ;Sweet
 

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