radiator cap

andrew123

Registered User
Joined
Jul 6, 2019
Posts
24
Reaction score
1
Location
81301
has anyone used a sacrificial anode radiator cap? I found one 13psi, for a pretty reasonable price, i thought i would give it a try.

has anyone used one? just wondering if they actually do anything that the package claims:

-eliminates a major cause of overheating
-can prevent costly engine repairs
-combats cooling system electrolysis damage
-prolongs engine and cooling system life

I guess as long as it doesn't do any BAD, I'm okay with trying it.......

the website did say it fit the 93 f250.

-andrew
1993 7.3 IDI auto
 

theSHERPA

Full Access Member
Joined
May 10, 2013
Posts
193
Reaction score
107
Location
Austin, TX
Sacrificial anodes work great for an aluminum radiator. Never heard of them used on OEM radiators.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

andrew123

Registered User
Joined
Jul 6, 2019
Posts
24
Reaction score
1
Location
81301
Sacrificial anodes work great for an aluminum radiator. Never heard of them used on OEM radiators.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I am fairly certain my radiator has been replaced and is aluminum....
 

ttman4

Last Nite's Dream..
Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Posts
1,095
Reaction score
612
Location
Hi in the Cascades, Nearly- Redmond,Oregon
If they do work I wish I'd had one on my old Ford 3cyl diesel backhoe for about 20-30 yr ago! About 6-7 yr ago was using it one day, running absolutely great, but suddenly smelled something HOT. Cked things, no water. Let cool down & filled it up.. Oil & water went running out the dipstick.

Cked compression & all 3 had wonderful compression.
In short the big "E WORMS" had chewed a small hole thru water jacket down low, down below the piston/rings stroke on one cyl. They had been nibblin for quite a while.
 

Cubey

Van dweller
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Posts
4,066
Reaction score
1,580
Location
USA
Makes sense. Same principle has anode rods in water heaters. My RV one has an aluminum tank and had no rod. I recently put one in.
 

Macrobb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Posts
2,380
Reaction score
1,234
Location
North Idaho
I think the difference is that a water heater is using plain water, vs running a coolant mixture in your truck. The coolant mixture has anti-cavitation and anti-corrosion additives, which seem to work - I don't see much corrosion happening on engines with good coolant in them.
 

andrew123

Registered User
Joined
Jul 6, 2019
Posts
24
Reaction score
1
Location
81301
I think the difference is that a water heater is using plain water, vs running a coolant mixture in your truck. The coolant mixture has anti-cavitation and anti-corrosion additives, which seem to work - I don't see much corrosion happening on engines with good coolant in them.

i buy the pre-mixed coolant that napa sells, it has the added chemicals and has a picture of the semi truck on the front....i forget the brand, it might be 'fleet' something....pink in color.
 

Macrobb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Posts
2,380
Reaction score
1,234
Location
North Idaho
i buy the pre-mixed coolant that napa sells, it has the added chemicals and has a picture of the semi truck on the front....i forget the brand, it might be 'fleet' something....pink in color.
Fleet charge? It's a standard 'green' coolant with SCAs in it. It should be OK; you do need to check with test strips once in a while, because the SCAs *do* get used up(and there's only a narrow range where they are effective - too little and they don't protect against cavitation, too much and the additives actually *eat* solder and copper).

I personally like and use Zerex G-05 or Zerex HD ELC coolants; these are both extended-life coolants that are compatible with the old seals used in these trucks, have good anti-cavitation properties(they *do not* need SCAs added; the chemical mix inside does the same job for much longer), and last much longer.
 

andrew123

Registered User
Joined
Jul 6, 2019
Posts
24
Reaction score
1
Location
81301
Fleet charge? It's a standard 'green' coolant with SCAs in it. It should be OK; you do need to check with test strips once in a while, because the SCAs *do* get used up(and there's only a narrow range where they are effective - too little and they don't protect against cavitation, too much and the additives actually *eat* solder and copper).

I personally like and use Zerex G-05 or Zerex HD ELC coolants; these are both extended-life coolants that are compatible with the old seals used in these trucks, have good anti-cavitation properties(they *do not* need SCAs added; the chemical mix inside does the same job for much longer), and last much longer.

that is good to know, perhaps when I flush my fluid next time, i will go with the zerex coolants you have mentioned above.....
 

79jasper

Chickenhawk
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Posts
17,367
Reaction score
1,930
Location
Collinsville, Oklahoma
I don't like zerex because they aren't silicate free.
While may not be a issue in a idi, I still prefer silicate free.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Cubey

Van dweller
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Posts
4,066
Reaction score
1,580
Location
USA
I don't like zerex because they aren't silicate free.
While may not be a issue in a idi, I still prefer silicate free.

Zerex is "lower" silicate. Over on BITOG, I found someone saying this:

Well in Diesels you will want silicates, what happens in most big diesels and alot in Ford diesels is that when the cylinder fires it expands, and when it contracts it leaves a air pocket around the cylinder, when this happens a piece of the cylinder flakes off, and you can get a pin hole in the cylinder over time.
Now the silicates will attach them self to the cylinder wall, and they will flake off instead of a piece of cylinder wall.

True or not? Dunno. Source: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/611652/silicate-in-antifreeze
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,217
Posts
1,128,519
Members
24,045
Latest member
Ramtough01

Members online

No members online now.
Top