quick question kinda important about oil

smokin150

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Ran low on oil this morning on the way to work... I'm in the middle of nowhere, I have 2qts of rotella, there is a guy I'm working with that has 2qts of semi synthetic oil for a gasser. I'm in a pinch, what damage can I do by blending the two till I can get to the store tonight? Thanks
 

IDIoit

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one must do what you gotta do.
i only run delo 400 in mine.
and i make sure i have extra.
from what i read, our engines drink rotella like a drunkard slamming a bottle of JD.
 

Dave Barbieri

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No damage. For short term use, to get you to the store tonight, this'll work. Keep in mind that semi-syn oil is a mixture of conventional oil and synthetic oil, so all you're doing is changing the percentage of synthetic oil to conventional oil. Gas engine oil doesn't have the additive pack that's designed for diesel engine combustion characteristics, but it'll lubricate just fine and get you where you need to go.
 

smokin150

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one must do what you gotta do.
i only run delo 400 in mine.
and i make sure i have extra.
from what i read, our engines drink rotella like a drunkard slamming a bottle of JD.

This I know... But it's my backup jug that I keep in the truck, I usually run mobile delvac..
 

icanfixall

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Anything is better than nothing. This is why the oil filter header has that bypass in it. Dirty oil going to an engine is better than no oil going to an engine. My 1937 cord V8 does not have an oil filter. The oil pump has a floating oil suction so it always sucks the clean oil off the top of the pan... Yeah thats it...:rolleyes:cookoo:dunno
 

chris142

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The gasser oil is not designed to deal with the soot a diesel puts in the oil.its better than nothing and will get you home. Change it to the proper diesel oil asap. When did you last ck your oil level?
 

The Warden

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I'll join the chorus...in an emergency, any oil that you can get your hands on will get you home, unltss it's water-thin or gear-oil-thick. So, go ahead and put the semi-synthetic g@$$er oil in to get you home.

However, the g@$$er oil isn't set up to handle the soot that gets past the rings and into the oil on a diesel, so you want to do an oil change and get diesel rated oil in as soon as it's practical.
 

smokin150

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The gasser oil is not designed to deal with the soot a diesel puts in the oil.its better than nothing and will get you home. Change it to the proper diesel oil asap. When did you last ck your oil level?

Checked it last Thursday when I got fuel, was full then, can't see a leak and no chocolate milk either...
 

chris142

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How low was it? My rear main was really leaking. I put in a few QTS of gasser high milage gasser oil and ran that a thousand miles or so.
 

smokin150

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How low was it? My rear main was really leaking. I put in a few QTS of gasser high milage gasser oil and ran that a thousand miles or so.

It was so low my oil gauge dropped to zero when I stopped at a sign, came back up but still low enough to cause a problem... And it's an actual gauge, not the dummy on the dash
 

PwrSmoke

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To the OP: No worries short term. Your engine hold 10 quarts and adding 20 percent of another viscosity an brand isn't a huge issue. Slightly incorrect oil is way better than low oil. Oils are all pretty compatible these days so unlike many years ago, there is little danger of additive clash. It might shorten the working life of the oil a little because the amount and types of additives in the S-rated (gasser) oil is less suited for diesel use, but if you do a "normal" 4K OCI (Oil Change Interval), I don't think you should have any trouble... especially if you top off again later with the right oil. Yes, you should be admonished for not having a jug of oil behind your seat but we'll let you live ( : < ). I've owned my truck going on 30 years, purchased with 7K miles, and from day one, it always used oil in small to moderate amounts... no matter what type, viscosity or brand I put in. It's normal for engines from this era and these engines in particular. It gets worse as they age and you just have to keep up with it by frequent checks. In the old days, people were conditioned to check oil religiously but today's drink-no-oil engines have gotten people out of the habit if they happen to start running an older generation truck.

My Hijack, but its related:
what i read, our engines drink rotella like a drunkard slamming a bottle of JD.

What you "read" is incorrect and I challenge anyone to prove it's true. I know that statement will bring about a barrage of anecdotes, ******** and repetitive old-man's tales (which I will ignore), but little in the way of science (which I will not ignore if someone can prove me wrong on that basis). If you know ANYTHING about oil, the composition of it and the general trends in the way oil is formulated by the different manufacturers, you will know this is just more internet nonsense. When I wrenched at car dealerships (including Ford), and this was in the era when most engines used some oil normally, we got a lot of complaints about oil excessive consumption. There was a whole rigamarole to verifying the complaint and often, very often, it turned out to be the customer; how and when they checked the oil, for example. With our trucks, the biggest mistake people make in this regard is "topping off."

On our trucks, it's two quarts from "add" to "full" and anyone that pays attention to the normal oil consumption will realize that that first quart will burn off much faster than the second. If you constantly top off from that midway point, you will think the truck is using a lot more oil. If you only add one quart when the oil level reaches add, perceived oil consumption will be less. This what I've done on my truck for the past 15 years or so. This was the common procedure back in the day, at the Ford dealer too, which is where I learned of it. There is no benefit or advantage to keeping the oil level at full all the time and a few disadvantages. Windage is one (costs power and speeds up oxidation by churning it up more) and oil consumption is the other, which creates combustion chamber deposits.

Another mistake is to check the oil level cold. There are reasons why they want you to check the oil on a warm engine (sitting on level ground... another common mistake) that has had minimum 5-10 minutes after shutdown to drain the oil from the upper end. Like anything, oil "expands" when it's warm. It's a small amount between 100 and 150F, say, but if you check it cold on a 30 degree day versus a warmed up engine, you will see a noticeable difference. If you observe, you can note what cold looks like versus warm and take that into account.

I have tried several brands of oil (Rotella, DELO, Mobil, Citgo, Royal Purple and, way back, Pennzoil) and none used noticeably more oil than another, with the exception of the 10W30 Pennzoil SF/CC which was the original oil recommended and really only a glorified car oil (it used more of that than the 15W40 SJ/CH I switched after a couple of years). This has largely been true with the two viscosities I have used as well, 10W30 vs 15W40... no significant difference in consumption and what I difference I did notice favored the 10W30 using less. I use 10W30 (Rotella T-5) exclusively now, by the way, but I still have a couple of cases of Royal Purple 15W40 synthetic so I will probably use that up before going back.
 
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PwrSmoke

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unltss it's water-thin or gear-oil-thick.

Teachable moment: Did you know that 40 grade oil has the same viscosity, measured in centistokes, as 90 grade gear oil?

How can this be? Engine and gear oil are two different grades. Remember the "40" or the "90" are viscosity grades not a measurement of viscosity and engine and gear oil are on two different grade charts. But if you look at the actual viscosity in centistokes, the 40 grade engine oil is the same "thickness" as 90 grade gear oil. There are many other differences in formulation between the two, which make them incompatible. Engine oil will have a LOT more VII (Viscosity Index Improvers) to make the oil flow better in cold weather. The base oil used for engines is usually thinner than it's hot rated viscosity and the VIIs make it thicker for warm operation. Gear oil starts off with thick base oil, uses fewer VIIs (because they really get beat up in a differential) and more pour point depressants to get the flowing for cold operation. Gear oil isn't pumped, so it can be thicker in cold weather and not be harmful to the machinery. Straight 90 grade gear oil turns to honey at 30 degrees but so does straight 40 grade.

I knew a guy who used gear oil in his (old tired 390 ford) engine because he got a bunch free. Worked fine for the summer, though I shudder to think what the sulfur and phosphorus gear oil additives were doing to the engine, but when winter came ... and it was a northern California winter no less... the 80W90 oil was so thick that the oil pump drive shaft sheared off trying to pump it. Virtually the same thing would have happened had he used a straight 40 grade oil.
 
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