Quick Help Needed- Dropping Tanks

[BioFarmer93]

We were going to take the bed off to replace the fuel pickups, but the bed bolts and nuts are corroded solid to each other and the the impact wrench just spins them. Can the tanks be dropped easily? I see the straps and it looks simple on the surface of things but there is always some un-thought of problem. I need advice quick because I'm at my buddy's house and would like to get this done before too late tonight. -Thanks!

 

[RLDSL]

You need a backup wrench on the bolt head on top to keep it from spinning. It would have been good to soak the threads with Aero Kroil beforehand. If you still can't get them off you may need to cut the bolts if they are too far gone

 

[BioFarmer93]

Thanks- What about dropping the tanks?

 

[BioFarmer93]

Wait a sec... The bolt "heads" are rounded- carriage bolts!

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Too late now, but I usually soak all connectors with some kind of knocker-loose several times and several days before beginning such an endeavor.

You can do this with a propane bottle-torch if that is all you have.

Heat a nut until it is as hot as the propane is gonna get it.

Take the flame away and immediately stick a candle against the threads of the bolt, close to the nut.

You can actually see the hot wax creeping into the threads between the bolt and nut.

Somehow hold the bolt from turning and the nut will now come off.


If that fails, then cut the bolts or split the nuts and replace with new ones.


Don't burn down the truck.

 

[jwalterus]

I have a tendency to take a grinder to the heads and use a short piece of rebar with a hammer to pound them out the bottom

I have done it that way on 2 different trucks within the last year

oh, just an fyi, if the bolts have a phillips head on them, there won't be a normal nut underneath, they screw into thos little clip-nut things on the frame

 

[BioFarmer93]

Sprayed in bedliner- forgot about the phillips head... Out of sight out of mind- No little clippy nuts on mine, just big corroded on automotive flange bottom nuts, not sure what the actual name for them is.

While waiting for replies I have been searching "dropping tanks" and have run across threads where folks have done it, but no references to practical info on it. Anybody???

 

[RLDSL]

No Carriage bolts on mine, it's always had regular bolts and nuts.

A tranny jack comes in real handy for dropping the tanks, barring that a good floor jack with a ratchet strap should do the trick

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

If there is much corrosion, it is almost impossible to drop the tanks without replacing the straps that hold them on. And the straps are a dealer item that ain't cheap.

 

[RLDSL]

If you've managed to spin out carriage bolts, then you are going to have to cut them out most likely unless you can get vice grips on them and I wouldn't count on that working

 

[gonecrazyi]

The front tanks pretty easy once the shields and guards are off. Just spray the bolts with some wd40 and have at it with a ratchet. You dont have to drop the front tank to replace the sending unit, just tap the lock ring with a screw driver and hammer and pull the old one out.

The back tank can be a bit of a ****** but depending on the type of straps that are used to hold it up, it can be dropped. Mine is held up by plates. Ive never had to actually deal with the straps.

 

[BioFarmer93]

Gentlemen, thank you all.. We are now transferring the last of the fuel from the front tank to the rear and spraying all associated nuts and bolts with PB Blaster. Will let the rear tanks strap bolts soak a week or two and try to do the front tank today as it looks to be easier & less corroded. All of your inputs are much appreciated and again, thank you.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

You can always cut a trap-door in the bed-floor, over each tanks sender-unit, such that you can access/service them from above.

 

[Diesel_brad]

I use these http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...=froogle&cm_pla=2010402&cm_ite=0067214523571a you strap them um under the truck as if you are holding the tank in place with them, then undo your factory tank straps. The tank will now be held in place with the cam straps. just gently hit the release buttons a lil to drop the tank a lil. at a time till you can get to the filler neck clamp and the sending unit connections. Once they are undone you can lowerr the tank untill you can pull the sending unit. Once the sending unit is replaced just pull the straps untill the tank is high enoough to reattach the filler neck and sending unit connections. Then pulll the straps some more untill the tank is back in place. Now reattach your factory straps.


\ As for removing the bed. Just weld some Large(5/8) to the carrage bolt heads. Then hold the newly welded nuts with a wrench and spin the nuts off

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

\ As for removing the bed. Just weld some Large(5/8) to the carrage bolt heads. Then hold the newly welded nuts with a wrench and spin the nuts off

^^^ THAT WILL WORK ^^^, as I have been there and done it.


If you are poor, like me , and can't afford a bunch of big nuts, or it is after-hours and a long way to town, you can weld a length of re-bar or somesuch to the head of the bolt, and use the re-bar as if it were a wrench.

When you get one loose, saw off the re-bar ( or whatever ) and weld it onto the next one.




There are many many trucks running around in which ratchet-straps are the sole means of tank support.

1st. Gen. Dodges are notorious for tank-strap failure; and, there are more with a ratchet-strap or two holding the tank, than without.