Questions about the rear main on my 318

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I pulled the 727 in my 72 D200 to rebuild it. When I did I found the rear main has been leaking for a while. That is the only leak I can find on that truck. While the tranny is out I figured I may as well do the rear main. The hang up is I have never been inside a 318 and I do not know what is required to get it done. I am using a friend’s lift at his shop so I cannot take a much of stuff off that is not necessary I have to get it done quickly. Have any of you done this repair? If so can I get some guidance before I dig into it? What all has to come off? What kind of seal is it? Is it a two piece? DO I have to pull the rotating assembly to get to the seal?
 

fordf350man

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i rebuilt a 318 out of a vehicle, it had a 2 piece rear main seal, when i did i had the crank out for the top half of the seal, set the crank in, used silicone for the mating surface on the seal then installed the second piece and then the oil pan gasket and oil pan, havent done one in a vehicle, i think you could do it without taking the crank out, just need to be sure the mating surface on the seal is sealed with silicone, also the one i did was a magnum block, the LA block might be a little different
 
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It looks like I have room to drop the pan and do it in the frame. It would be nice to just pull the eninge and but if I do, I would like to go through the whole thing. I see no reason fro that becuase this truck has low miles and runs great like it is.
 

fordf350man

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3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L Gasoline Engines

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Raise and support the vehicle.

Drain the engine oil.

CAUTION

The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.

Remove the oil pan.

Remove the oil pump.

Loosen all the main bearing cap bolts, thereby lowering the crankshaft slightly but not to exceed 1/32 in. (0.8mm).

Remove the rear main bearing cap, and remove the oil seal from the bearing cap and cylinder block. On the block half of the seal use a seal removal tool, or install a small metal screw in one end of the seal, and pull on the screw to remove the seal. Exercise caution to prevent scratching or damaging the crankshaft seal surfaces.

Remove the oil seal retaining pin from the bearing cap (if equipped). The pin is not used with the split-lip seal.

Removing the split rubber oil seal

Removing the split rubber oil seal
Click to Enlarge



Thoroughly clean the seal groove in the cap and block.

Dip the split lip-type seal halves in clean engine oil.

If the replacement seals are marked with white paint, the marks must face the REAR of the engine.

Carefully install the upper seal (cylinder block) into its groove with undercut side of the seal (rubber type) toward the FRONT of the engine, by rotating it on the seal journal of the crankshaft until approximately 3/8 in. (9.5mm) protrudes below the parting surface.

On rope type, pull into position with the seal installing tool. Be sure no rubber has been shaved from the outside diameter of the seal by the bottom edge of the groove. Do NOT allow oil to get on the sealer area.

Tighten the main bearing cap bolts.

On the rope type seal, trim the upper seal ends flush with the block surface. Install the lower seal (rubber type) in the rear main bearing cap under undercut side of seal toward the FRONT of the engine, allow the seal to protrude approximately 3/8 in. (9.5mm) above the parting surface to mate with the upper seal when the cap is installed. With rope type seals, press the seal full and firmly into the cap groove. Trim the ends flush with the cap.

Install the side seals into the bearing cap. Apply an even 1/16 in. (1.6mm) bead of RTV silicone sealer at the bearing cap to block joint to provide oil pan end sealing.

Oil pan end main bearing cap sealer points

Oil pan end main bearing cap sealer points
Click to Enlarge

NOTE

This sealer sets up in 15 minutes.

Install the rear main bearing cap.

Tighten the cap bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).

Install the oil pump.

Install the oil pan.

Refill the engine oil.

WARNING

Operating the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil will result in severe engine damage.

Start the engine and check for leaks.

Turn the engine off, recheck the engine oil.

Lower the vehicle.
 
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I was digging aorund and all ican find is Magnum information. But I agree, I think they are the same. Where did you find that?
 

fordf350man

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i got that from chilton library, michigan residents get it for free, i just made a thread with the info for that
 

fordf350man

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haha just dont go to the downriver area, its the southestern side, it sucks over here, everywhere else is good to go
 

fordf350man

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come in the summer and then go back south for winter, i would love to do that, im not a big fan of cold either
 

aofarrell2

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Rear main seal on both Magnum and LA are two piece. Just replaced mine a couple months ago.
 

aofarrell2

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Quick tip: Be sure to loosen ALL the bearing caps, this will allow the crank to drop low enough to PUSH the top of the main seal out.It will be a little difficult to get moving because it has been clamped there under heat for years but after a little flexing with a screw driver will slide out. It's gotta be pushed out halfway, then you can grab it with a pliers and pull it out the rest of the way. Don't forget to put RTV on the corners of the bearing cap. Also if the seal starts to shave when you are putting it in you will have to get a new seal and try again.
 

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