Question for those with factory ATS turbo's

[Pipeliner_86]

On the 1994 Ford idi factory tubo, has anyone wired their waste gate closed so that it doesn't move. Some guys with cummins 12v's do it and I was wondering the effect it has on a factory ford idi setup.

Thanks in advance.

 

[dyoung14]

When i get my turbo and get it on the truck first thing im gonna do is plug the wastegate, second thing im gonna do is max the fuel screw, and third im gonna hold my foot all the way to the floor

 

[icanfixall]

You can remove the rubber line that supplies boost pressure to the can but be sure to plug the line. Otherwise you will loose most of the boost cause it will be going nowhere but back out. Be careful. You may lift the heads if your running the oem gaskets. Most will try this after they replace hed gaskets and add ARP head studs...

 

[1994IDI]

It's interesting that you ask. After reading Gary and Justin's response on the other thread, I intend to plug my wastegate line and find out tonight. I'll be back with more info in a little bit.

 

[Sycostang67]

If you can reach the desired level of boost by adjusting the rod, why would you want to do such a thing? I feel better knowing there is a safety mechanism to prevent me from popping my heads.

 

[1994IDI]

I just got back with some results. I put a bolt in the boost line and clamped it.

Before, unloaded on a level road at WOT, the most I ever saw was 8 PSI and could easily get 1100 degrees EGT's.

Tonight, after unplugging the boost line, on the same stretch, unloaded at WOT, I hit 13 PSI and let off at 75 MPH. I was astonished. And with my foot to the floor I could not pass 1000*. I maxed out around 950 and the difference in acceleration was definitely notable. After shifting into overdrive and flooring it, I climbed to 75-80 much much faster than before. I also had a much more noticeable turbo whistle throughout most of the RPM range.

With all that said, I think I will go along with sycostang and adjust the wastegate rod and reattach the boost line. Is it as simple as unhooking the rod, and threading it back shorter then reattaching it until you get the desired boost?

I hope this is helpful, and thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[BlueBreadTruck]

How about just install a boost controller in that wastegate line? have it pop at say 12 psi or wherever you want your max boost?

 

[sassyrel]

I just got back with some results. I put a bolt in the boost line and clamped it.

Before, unloaded on a level road at WOT, the most I ever saw was 8 PSI and could easily get 1100 degrees EGT's.

Tonight, after unplugging the boost line, on the same stretch, unloaded at WOT, I hit 13 PSI and let off at 75 MPH. I was astonished. And with my foot to the floor I could not pass 1000*. I maxed out around 950 and the difference in acceleration was definitely notable. After shifting into overdrive and flooring it, I climbed to 75-80 much much faster than before. I also had a much more noticeable turbo whistle throughout most of the RPM range.

With all that said, I think I will go along with sycostang and adjust the wastegate rod and reattach the boost line. Is it as simple as unhooking the rod, and threading it back shorter then reattaching it until you get the desired boost?

I hope this is helpful, and thanks in advance for any advice.

not quite----theres two dimples, that lock the two rods together. they did this at the fac to set the boost at a certain point--and those rods are----HARD. so,go get a small carbide bit,and drill thru the outer rod,so you just remove the dimple--then you can screw the two rods apart,drill the hole clean thru the outer rod to get rid of all the dimple--then put it back together,and go set the boost where you want it----the drill bits for concrete--that have carbide pieces soldered to the point of the drill. will drill thru the rod, hey will also drill thru some fairly hard steel. use WATER for coolant,not oil. oil "floats" the bit---serious--

 

[Pipeliner_86]

Great info guys, thank! I will now apply the knowledge of the Force.

 

[Sycostang67]

not quite----theres two dimples, that lock the two rods together. they did this at the fac to set the boost at a certain point--and those rods are----HARD. so,go get a small carbide bit,and drill thru the outer rod,so you just remove the dimple--then you can screw the two rods apart,drill the hole clean thru the outer rod to get rid of all the dimple--then put it back together,and go set the boost where you want it----the drill bits for concrete--that have carbide pieces soldered to the point of the drill. will drill thru the rod, hey will also drill thru some fairly hard steel. use WATER for coolant,not oil. oil "floats" the bit---serious--

I think this only applies to factory turbo trucks. I have an ATS system and there were no dimples on my wastegate rod, just a locknut.

 

[George D.]

Drill threw the dimples? Just grab the rod with vice grips to keep from tearing the diaphragm then spin the clevis off and run a tap threw it.

 

[dyoung14]

got my turbo on yesterday, didnt touch my fuel unpluggedthe wastegate and under WOT in 3rd i can hit 10psi

 

[ghunt]

Drill threw the dimples? Just grab the rod with vice grips to keep from tearing the diaphragm then spin the clevis off and run a tap threw it.

Actually if you do this I think it's not a bad idea to drill out the first 1/4" or so of the clevis end itself to a larger diameter (so it has no threads).

I spun mine off way back when I did my elbow and downpipe, tapped out the clevis and cleaned up the threads on the rod, but I have mine adjusted down for 10 psi right now, there's lots of thread left on the rod but it's gotten so hard to turn I don't think I could adjust it anymore....and I'm pretty sure I don't have the threaded part bottomed out although I should probably check.