Puzzling Truck Help

[03wr250f]

I am puzzled by the problems I am having with my truck. I am going to list the problems (not in any order) I have been having. I have done some research on them but I really am lost. I don't want to just keep changing parts until the problem is found, but I do want to get this fixed. thanks in advanced and any helpful input is readily welcome.

When I first noticed problems I made a trip to Denver (2.5 hours both ways) to buy a car. I let my roommate drive my truck, and it was working fine before that, He has a decent head on his shoulders, and would have done anything dumb (I don't think). but then I hopped in my truck and first started noticing these things.
the previous few weeks I had also been noticing my truck would not want to give me full power for awhile, it would just lightly spit and sputter for awhile once driving and after 5 or so minutes it would go away. I always fire my truck up with nothing turned on the slowly turn the heater and radio and other things on. She always gets at least 5 minutes of warm up, typically 10 +. I try to be as nice to her as I can and treat it well. I even drive it carefully once warmed up.

-After 45 MPH the rear antilock light comes on, never has before. I looked into this and people have said lack of vacuum, but when I bought the truck there was a 2'' long hole in the vacuum line, I have since repaired it, and my cruise control is no longer working. the month previous I noticed it was getting it harder to get it to work but just chalked it up to an old truck.
-jittery power for a bout first 5 min of driving
-slight surges until constant speed is reached
-lack of throttle response especially after 55. I get that these may not have new vehicle response but it is probably a second slower to respond than it was before, and less power it seems according to the but dyno, but I may be slightly exaggerating since im looking for things.

I just replaced the oring on the top of the fuel heater and also the fuel filter while I was there. those problems were present before I did the service, and are still present after that. yes I did bleed all the lines and all of that good stuff, but on a side note I apparently didn't get the bolt for the fuel filter heater on tight enough. I need to re tighten it... so does anyone know the correct torque for it.
Thanks for any and all help guys. I am really at a loss so any help is great.

 

[USNENFTS]

The power issues and rough running sounds like the Injection Pump.... Mine did the same thing, surged and had lack of power... Took my pump off and down to Seattle Injector and had it rebuilt, now I have no engine issues and have A LOT more power and no smoke.... The cruise control could be due to the "coffee can" its on the driver side and looks like a metal coffee can, check that for holes, more so on the bottom. The rear Antilock light, I can't help ya there, I have no clue. Its on and off in both by trucks, I tried replacing the sensors and that did nothing....

 

[nj_m715]

Lack of power and surging can be caused from air leaking into the fuel lines. I'm not sure about the abs, it may not be related.

Install a clear tube before the ip. If you see air bubbles, track them down and eliminate them.

 

[03wr250f]

I sure hope that it is not the ip, especially since it only has 7000 miles on it, but the napa block heater has gone out as have two napa voltage regulators, and one napa alternator. The ip was not from them, but I have had a lot of parts going out, and I really do not use my truck that much, and I always try to be nice. I will call the builders of my ip and see what they say. I have a lot more smoke than I did but I also went up in elevation 4000 ft, but this happened a month after I move, and I have really not changed anything in my daily habits, but I don't know.
I will check that coffee can, but I doubt it is rusted, especially since there is no rust on the truck whatsoever , I am willing to try anything.
And I checked all of the connections on the rear abs sensor, and I didn't see anything. I just like making my truck right.
but I will call on that ip. Thank you

 

[USNENFTS]

Lack of power and surging can be caused from air leaking into the fuel lines. I'm not sure about the abs, it may not be related.

Install a clear tube before the ip. If you see air bubbles, track them down and eliminate them.

That is a very good idea.... 03wr250f, you should try what nj-m715 said before messing with the IP.... And if there is no air then I would replace the lift pump and IP... When i had my issues I replaced EVERYTHING that had to do with the fuel system and it was cause that was the last thing I did.

 

[laserjock]

Lift pump maybe? I don't think your two problems are related. I think you may have a fuel supply problem. I also think you may have a vacuum system problem. I wonder if it's your vacuum pump since it happens after 45 mph. Pump should make more vacuum at rpm. Did your friend over-rev it or drive it at higher rpm for a long period (like OD off)? I can't see your sig from my phone if you have your truck info in it. Sorry.



I could see that toasting an ailing vacuum pump and mechanical lift pump. First thing I'd do if you still have a mech lift pump is pull the dipstick and make sure there's not a lot of fuel in the crank case.

Those are the things I'd look at. Vacuum gauge would be useful.

 

[TahoeTom]

I hope your friend didn't add gasoline to your fuel tank.

 

[riotwarrior]

Check fuel pressure at idle and at higher RPM at fuel filter, if you see that pressure varies considerably and fluctuates greatly a lift pump may be in need. You can attach a vacuum/fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve if you remove the inside of valve and get a good reading from there or just remove entire fitting and install a barbed fitting for test purposes.

Also inspect the LIFT PUMP FEED line, that is the line from the FRAME to the PUMP it's the rubber line and known to at times degrade from time and use.

Where was the IP rebuilt, and I see yer sig says rebuilt injectors, those could be needing pop matching if they were not at the time of rebuild.

Any fuel around return caps? If so thats a root cause of problems.

Vacuum system is a completely different system, so once you finish the test on fuel system with a vacuum/fuel pressure gauge now it's time to go direct to vacuum pump, check at idle and say 2500 RPM for good vacuum, 20+ inches adequate. If you have good vacuum, then the problem for the cruise is elsware, track all vacuum lines and test system for leaks etc. Will it hold a vacuum, if not you have a leak some place...simple enough but PITA to locate..just takes time/effort.

ABS, how is your speedo, does it fluctuate or bounce or even work? If so maybe remove and clean off the sensor in the rear diff. It is the sensor for the ABS/Speedo and has a cause/effect on things like that.

Good luck, and keep us updated

 

[snicklas]

OK, one question. Is it the Amber Rear ABS light that is on, or the Red BRAKE light in the dash. This does matter. If it is the RABS light, that light has nothing to do with vacuum. If the vacuum switch has been activated, the Red BRAKE light (same on that is on when you have the E-Brake set) to indicate either loss of brake fluid, or loss of vacuum to the system. If the brake pedal is not hard, and the HVAC vents still change with the dash selector, then I would say you do not have a vacuum problem.

If it is the Amber Rear Anti-Lock or RABS light, this is indicating an issue with the RABS valve on the drivers framerail. Does the speedometer still work and read correctly? If the VSS has failed, it will cause the RABS to not work, and trip the light.

Let us know which symptom and light you have.... if you have a RABS light, then looking at the vacuum system is not going to fix that light.......

 

[03wr250f]

Lift pump maybe? I don't think your two problems are related. I think you may have a fuel supply problem. I also think you may have a vacuum system problem. I wonder if it's your vacuum pump since it happens after 45 mph. Pump should make more vacuum at rpm. Did your friend over-rev it or drive it at higher rpm for a long period (like OD off)? I can't see your sig from my phone if you have your truck info in it. Sorry.



I could see that toasting an ailing vacuum pump and mechanical lift pump. First thing I'd do if you still have a mech lift pump is pull the dipstick and make sure there's not a lot of fuel in the crank case.

Those are the things I'd look at. Vacuum gauge would be useful.

OK, one question. Is it the Amber Rear ABS light that is on, or the Red BRAKE light in the dash. This does matter. If it is the RABS light, that light has nothing to do with vacuum. If the vacuum switch has been activated, the Red BRAKE light (same on that is on when you have the E-Brake set) to indicate either loss of brake fluid, or loss of vacuum to the system. If the brake pedal is not hard, and the HVAC vents still change with the dash selector, then I would say you do not have a vacuum problem.

If it is the Amber Rear Anti-Lock or RABS light, this is indicating an issue with the RABS valve on the drivers framerail. Does the speedometer still work and read correctly? If the VSS has failed, it will cause the RABS to not work, and trip the light.

Let us know which symptom and light you have.... if you have a RABS light, then looking at the vacuum system is not going to fix that light.......

Alright, so the light is the amber one on the dash not the red one on the instrument cluster. Pedal is not hard, but since I was looking for problems/symptoms the last time I took my truck out I did not run the hvac system. On the way home from Denver, the heating controls all worked well.
What problems would one look for, or test for with this ''RABS valve '', or is it simply a replace and hope it works valve?
And thank you all for the great things to try and test.

 

[03wr250f]

Ok so it didn't record everything I typed up so I will add in what I missed.
My roommate did not over rev the engine, and it is a 5 speed in overdrive most of the way. I pulled the dipstick and my oil was charcoal? it has always been midnight black, would that be fuel in the oil? or what. I wiped it off on my fingers and it definitely was black but straight off the dipstick it is charcoal.

My buddy did not put gas in the tank because I was the only one to put fuel in the tanks and I definitely got diesel, not only that with the leak on my fuel filter as well as the replacement of it I did a lot of bleeding, as well as the drips were all definitely diesel. I definitely love checking the simple things first!

So where would one get a fuel pressure guage, but thank you for the detailed write up on how to test it.
If the rubber line you are talking about is about 1/2'' in diameter yes it is in great shape. I apparently did not put in my signature that the lift pump was replaced (sorry I didn't do it). The injection pump and injectors were rebuilt by diesel care and performance, and the lift pump, injection pump, and injectors return lines were all done at the same time, about 5000 miles ago, and 11 months ago.

my spedo does not jump or move eratically in any way. it works just fine.
Thank you again, and let me know if I missed replying to anyones ?'s.

 

[03wr250f]

Based on this do you guys think that it is the mechanical fuel pump, That's what it sounds like to me, but I am also the one asking for help. if so do you think that it would be best to go to electric, or what. Just thoughts
And I also have a oil sample kit from cat that I wanted to wait on until I got my truck up and running in order to test it after the oil had circulated, but im wondering if now would be agood time to sample even thought the engine has not been running and it has all settled down to the bottom.? thoughts.

 

[79jasper]

Lol. Sorry.
I bet the injectors and ip could have something to do with it. Check in the "hall of shame."
But it does seem like you have some air intrusion upon start up.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[03wr250f]

Alright so I think thanks to you guys I have divised a plan of attack. I am gonna bleed the fuel lines and then let her warm up and then drain enough oil to do a oil sample and send it off to caterpillar, and let them tell me whats up with the oil. I will always gladly welcome any and all imput and I am up to checking most anything you guys suggest until iget results back. But more than likely it will be after the first of the year, when I am able to get my test results back. Because I will be heading home for the holidays, I thank you all for your speedy feedback, and will paitently I guess wait for any of your advice, and wish you a Merry Christmas, and a happy new year!

 

[riotwarrior]

For a diagnostic testing fuel pressure/vaccum gauge look for one like here
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-93547.html

That's all I'm talking about...funny how a simple tool can provide so much information.

I've a few of these older gauges floating about. I can run a long line up through / around hood and tape it to top of hood if need be and have a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to test while the truck is being driven for example. Not just while idling and revving it up in the driveway.


Yes I'm talking about a fuel line about 1/2" OD that goes from main fuel feed line on frame to pump. Now it May APPEAR ok but could have a crack and suck air but no leak fuel...air is a smaller molecule than fuel and thus may leak in not out. Or the line may be deteriorated internally and causing mild blockage of fuel as well.

As for the cough rebuild cough...do check the HALL OF SHAME and determine for yourself the quality of that build.

Sticking with KNOWN reputable rebuilders or vendors is the key. Mel or Agnem here has Conestoga Diesel he does Moose pumps, then there is Russ or Typ4 here he has a supplier in NW US that he is happy with, and then Justin at R&D Performance as well, who has a line on pumps.

Sticking with pumps and injectors from one of these three should provide you with good results and support.

Good luck