Pushing coolant out the overflow.

[thx997303]

Well, my truck runs great, but it's pushing coolant out of the overflow, and will overheat because of that.

Truck has a new water pump, and I replaced the radiator cap just out of curiosity. Didn't change anything.

The coolant system pressurizes instantly after starting. There is no cross contamination of oil and coolant.

So, head gasket? Maybe cavitation? Truck has under 200k miles on it, and I've kept up on SCAs, and the previous owner says he did, though I can't verify that.

 

[vegas39]

If you and the previous owner maintained the sca's, than I would say you probably lost a head gasket and that doesnt necessarily mean that you would get oil in the water, or vice versa.

I did mine without pulling the engine, not as bad as everyone says it is. The passenger side is a little tough but removing the cover on the evap coil makes it a bit easier. We even added head studs to it at the same time.

 

[thx997303]

That wouldn't be surprising. I think I'm going to pull the injectors soon and see what they may look like. I was getting some white smoke on startup, but attributed it to fuel and a cold engine rather than anything else. Haven't smelled any coolant from the exhaust.

 

[vegas39]

When mine blew, we were heading to California towing a big trailer with our old Jetta on it. It ran fine but sounded like a big pressure cooker and no mixing of any fluids, or anything else unusual. We were able to make it to our destination but didnt know what the problem was with it and left it there for my Cousin in law to evaluate.

 

[thx997303]

Well, I'm going to pull the heads and do the head gaskets, probably will be a great time to do oil cooler o-rings.

Also, where are the bolts that hold the turbo in place on these ATS kits? I have the snail loose, and I know I have to unbolt the up? down? pipe. But there's got to be a bracket somewhere holding it on there.

 

[thx997303]

I'm also supposed to remove the IP by leaving the housing in place, and unbolting the IP from the still meshed gear correct?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Yes on the IP removal. There's three nuts holding the pump to the housing. Before you remove them completely, remove the cover on the front of the housing. There's three bolts with 5/16" 12 point heads that hold the pump to the gear inside. these need to come out too. As for the turbo bolts, I'm pretty rusty on them, but there's usually 4 nuts holding the turbo itself to the pedestal. 2 bolts hold the pedestal to the intake. I remember on some of the older turbos, there were some bolts (2? 3?) that went into the back of the head on the passenger's side. They were a REAL PITA! That was some kind of mounting bracket. I'm sure someone will be able to give you better turbo info than me soon.

 

[thx997303]

Ok, so I have to loosen the nuts that hold the ip from turning, the same ones that are used to set timing, and the three external torx bolts that hold it to the gear? Good. Though I don't know I have the right socket for those torx.

 

[mjs2011]

Not torx, just 12 point bolts. Some socket kits have 12 point sockets, If not, you can find them at any parts store. Also a good idea to make your pump timing before you remove it.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[Bashby]

Yep, 5/16" 12 point socket fits those bolts. 8 mm is about the same if you have one of those you want to try.

 

[drinkypoo]

Anyone know where to get the IP to gear cover O-Ring? I bought an installation kit which comes with one but I don't want to have to do that again.

I can make them with my loctite O-ring kit but that's a bother

 

[icanfixall]

Mel at Conestoga Diesel in Pa will have lots of those o rings. Or for that matter any good injection pump repair shop will have them.

 

[thx997303]

So, once again, besides the bolts to the up pipe, and the single bolt through the snail into the intake mainfold, what does it take to remove the ATS turbo on this truck? Still haven't gotten any further since I have had things come up.

 

[drinkypoo]

Which turbo? I had a GRAND old time removing my ATS 088. That one? The turbocharger has to get removed from the up pipe, or the up pipe has got to get removed down from the turbocharger. The turbo is removed from the pedestal with an appropriate 9/16 wrench, either before if it's coming up or after if the pipe is coming down.

The factory turbo/093 is easier when stuck because it has a two-piece up pipe.

Some people use a long block of wood or something and beat the pipe down. Some bolt onto the top of the turbo and risk breaking the flange (and damaging the studs the turbo is on) bringing the turbo up.

 

[thx997303]

It's the 093. Note I mentioned the waste gate in my signature but yeah, that's it.