biggin you asked for it
Db2 injection pump how to article
First most the don't try this at home warning.
If you wish to change anything with the pump you need to know a few things.
You need a pyrometer to monitor you're egt (exhaust gas temperature) the egt will tell you in relation how hot the combustion chamber is getting. Any temps above 1000 F should be avoided as a general rule.
I would recommend mounting the pyro probe in a few locations. On a Na motor you can put it in the manifold or just below on the exhaust pipe. On a turbo motor you can mount it the same place as a Na motor or by the turbo on the turbo intake side somewhere. These locations will help to best monitor the temperatures inside your motor.
Mess with the pump at your own risk, I will give a general guideline for most cases, but still even with in a accepted safe zone issues can occur.
Now on to the fun stuff actually modifying stuff.
The high idle mod. This mod is used to raise up the idle of the motor. There are two main uses, running lots of electronics or long periods at idle. This solenoid is mounted on the side of the ip within the throttle linkage. In stock form it is controlled by a coolant temp sensor that will activate the solenoid and manually push up the throttle lever when the engine is cold. Now the ford idis are known to have low oil pressure at idle thus idling the vehicle for extended periods over time can cause upper drive train damage. So to put this high idle solenoid on a switch you don't have much to do. There are two ways to do this. First disconnect the wire going to this solenoid and run a fused switched hot to it then turn on and off as necessary. The second will keep the stock function run a 3 position switch (on-off-on) and have the stock wiring extended to one terminal and the new wiring from a fused hot to the other. Then finally run your current out wire to the solenoid.
The timing advance mod. Now in stock form the timing advance works similar to the high idle solenoid but it advances the timing to keep the motor running when cold. The spade terminal for this is on the top of the ip. There are 2 wires the larger connector is the fuel shutoff solenoid (fss) wire this wire turns on and off the fuel with your key. The second (a standard spade connector) is the timing advanced solenoid(the one closest to the firewall). This is just like turning the distributor on your gas motor same theory and idea but with a electronic switch to do it. Now messing with this has had good and bad results. But that aside if you wish to proceed you can do it just the same as the high idle solenoid with or without the 3 position switch. Once done you will have the ability to bump your timing up a few degrees when ever wanted or needed. But this has its faults too. I have heard of motor damage form over use but when it is used you have tons of power and fun. Yet the final reason why this is even mentioned is that if you live in a cold climate and find you must idle in the garage or hold rpms till the motor warms up you will find the user control of this function a pleasant addition to your truck.
So this is the most common mod simply turning up the fuel screw. The fuel screw is located on the passenger side of the pump under a triangular plate held on by 2 very small bolts. Simply unhook the throttle linkage, remove the plate (I recommend only removing the top bolt and loosening the bottom). So after you spun this plate over you will need to disconnect the fss wire mentioned under the timing advanced mod. This wire will prevent your motor from starting as you turn the crank. Then with a big wrench turn the motor over (clockwise) till the timing marks line up once they do look in the hole if you cant see the screw in there turn another 180 degrees on the crank. Then put a 5/32 allen wrench in the screw unscrew one or two flats of the wrench. Re assemble and take for a test spin watching the egt gage closely. As an addition you can also disconnect the fss wire and hit the starter to turn the motor over (this is not near as accurate and can deplete the battery but works). One final thing to add if you cannot find the screw then your balancer could be installed wrong or off so you'll have to look closer to make sure.
a more detailed link http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/Injection%20pump%20adjustment%20article.htm
The don't steal me mod. simply put the fss wire (see timing advanced) on a switched hot. You can run it from the battery or a keyed hot. Then hide it away and unless someone really knows these trucks they will think its out of fuel.
Torque screw info. Feel free to add I haven't messed with one yet. The torque screw is located on the back of the pump above where the lines attach to the pump. 93 and up pumps should have this but your older truck could with a reman pump on it. This screw will change the torque curve making the torque come in sooner or later.
Timing adjustments. Messing with the timing without a timing meter is not recommended but knowing what to do can help in a pump swap or diagnosing issues. To change your timing loosen the 3 bolts that hold the ip to the ip cover. Then turn toward the passenger side to advance timing. Then re tighten the bolts. Stock timing is 8.5 degrees before top dead center. This usually winds up having the pumps timing line about 1/8th inch more towards the passenger side than the housing mark.
If you have a timing meter or know of a shop that does and would like your name or the shops name on here pm me or post it ill add you for reference.
Mel user name agnem is in pa and has been willing to help anyone time their truck for a good meal I hear and he has a timing clinic at all the rallys so maybe hell chime in
Db2 injection pump how to article
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
First most the don't try this at home warning.
If you wish to change anything with the pump you need to know a few things.
You need a pyrometer to monitor you're egt (exhaust gas temperature) the egt will tell you in relation how hot the combustion chamber is getting. Any temps above 1000 F should be avoided as a general rule.
I would recommend mounting the pyro probe in a few locations. On a Na motor you can put it in the manifold or just below on the exhaust pipe. On a turbo motor you can mount it the same place as a Na motor or by the turbo on the turbo intake side somewhere. These locations will help to best monitor the temperatures inside your motor.
Mess with the pump at your own risk, I will give a general guideline for most cases, but still even with in a accepted safe zone issues can occur.
Now on to the fun stuff actually modifying stuff.
The high idle mod. This mod is used to raise up the idle of the motor. There are two main uses, running lots of electronics or long periods at idle. This solenoid is mounted on the side of the ip within the throttle linkage. In stock form it is controlled by a coolant temp sensor that will activate the solenoid and manually push up the throttle lever when the engine is cold. Now the ford idis are known to have low oil pressure at idle thus idling the vehicle for extended periods over time can cause upper drive train damage. So to put this high idle solenoid on a switch you don't have much to do. There are two ways to do this. First disconnect the wire going to this solenoid and run a fused switched hot to it then turn on and off as necessary. The second will keep the stock function run a 3 position switch (on-off-on) and have the stock wiring extended to one terminal and the new wiring from a fused hot to the other. Then finally run your current out wire to the solenoid.
You must be registered for see images attach
The timing advance mod. Now in stock form the timing advance works similar to the high idle solenoid but it advances the timing to keep the motor running when cold. The spade terminal for this is on the top of the ip. There are 2 wires the larger connector is the fuel shutoff solenoid (fss) wire this wire turns on and off the fuel with your key. The second (a standard spade connector) is the timing advanced solenoid(the one closest to the firewall). This is just like turning the distributor on your gas motor same theory and idea but with a electronic switch to do it. Now messing with this has had good and bad results. But that aside if you wish to proceed you can do it just the same as the high idle solenoid with or without the 3 position switch. Once done you will have the ability to bump your timing up a few degrees when ever wanted or needed. But this has its faults too. I have heard of motor damage form over use but when it is used you have tons of power and fun. Yet the final reason why this is even mentioned is that if you live in a cold climate and find you must idle in the garage or hold rpms till the motor warms up you will find the user control of this function a pleasant addition to your truck.
You must be registered for see images attach
So this is the most common mod simply turning up the fuel screw. The fuel screw is located on the passenger side of the pump under a triangular plate held on by 2 very small bolts. Simply unhook the throttle linkage, remove the plate (I recommend only removing the top bolt and loosening the bottom). So after you spun this plate over you will need to disconnect the fss wire mentioned under the timing advanced mod. This wire will prevent your motor from starting as you turn the crank. Then with a big wrench turn the motor over (clockwise) till the timing marks line up once they do look in the hole if you cant see the screw in there turn another 180 degrees on the crank. Then put a 5/32 allen wrench in the screw unscrew one or two flats of the wrench. Re assemble and take for a test spin watching the egt gage closely. As an addition you can also disconnect the fss wire and hit the starter to turn the motor over (this is not near as accurate and can deplete the battery but works). One final thing to add if you cannot find the screw then your balancer could be installed wrong or off so you'll have to look closer to make sure.
a more detailed link http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/Injection%20pump%20adjustment%20article.htm
You must be registered for see images attach
The don't steal me mod. simply put the fss wire (see timing advanced) on a switched hot. You can run it from the battery or a keyed hot. Then hide it away and unless someone really knows these trucks they will think its out of fuel.
Torque screw info. Feel free to add I haven't messed with one yet. The torque screw is located on the back of the pump above where the lines attach to the pump. 93 and up pumps should have this but your older truck could with a reman pump on it. This screw will change the torque curve making the torque come in sooner or later.
Timing adjustments. Messing with the timing without a timing meter is not recommended but knowing what to do can help in a pump swap or diagnosing issues. To change your timing loosen the 3 bolts that hold the ip to the ip cover. Then turn toward the passenger side to advance timing. Then re tighten the bolts. Stock timing is 8.5 degrees before top dead center. This usually winds up having the pumps timing line about 1/8th inch more towards the passenger side than the housing mark.
If you have a timing meter or know of a shop that does and would like your name or the shops name on here pm me or post it ill add you for reference.
Mel user name agnem is in pa and has been willing to help anyone time their truck for a good meal I hear and he has a timing clinic at all the rallys so maybe hell chime in
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