Pulling engine

[vegas39]

So, I have a friend that owns a crane company that I use for my a/c jobs. I've decided as mentioned before, to pull the block from my 89 and the complete motor from my 86 and drop it in my 89.
Due to issues with getting a cherry picker and the clearence problems of getting the motor up and out high enough, my friend is going to bring his crane over and do the swap.
Although he is a friend, he still runs a business and his hourly charge is 160 bucks, so I need to make sure that everything is pretty much ready to go when he gets here. Just curious how easy it is to pull a motor and line it back up to the trans, I've never pulled a motor out of one of these before and dont want to get stuck doing it the hard way.
If anyone can offer a few tips to make this go easier, I would really appreciate it. Thanks

 

[IDIoit]

PULL THE TRANS!!!!
it will make the swap alot easier. and quicker.
everytime ive yanked an engine out, ive done it this way.
your goal, is to minimize operation. maybe you can get the 1/2 hr rate.

 

[idiabuse]

I have done mine a few times, I always left the transmission in the truck, less huffing and puffing while installing the engine.
yea the engine sits in no problem. now climb under and do pushups on a C-6? nah!

All the work I did was solo so I did what made more sense to me. I never like to jerk engines with trans still attached, especially a 1000lb
engine hooked to a 200lb transmission.
To me I rather loosen the converter hit the bellhousing bolts and be ready to jerk the engine, than remove a driveshaft, linkage, transmission lines,
plug the rear shaft, or deal with ATF all over the place, How many times have I watched the plug get pulled off removing the the engine/trans as one
unit, always a cursing storm after that.

On my truck I installed the engine fully dressed with the turbo attached, so for me I prefer to yank and install the engine with the transmission in place.

 

[catbird7]

I just pulled engine, trans & transfer case as one assembly. It was a huge hunk of iron! I removed the core support and the hood remained in place. I used a HF hoist that cost about the same as your friend charges per hour. Make sure you remove the oil filter first!

 

[vegas39]

I just pulled engine, trans & transfer case as one assembly. It was a huge hunk of iron! I removed the core support and the hood remained in place. I used a HF hoist that cost about the same as your friend charges per hour. Make sure you remove the oil filter first!

My main reason for the crane, is so I dont have to remove the front of the trucks. The trucks are also sitting in two different spots and trying to roll a cherry picker between them would be a pain.
The two transmissions are different, as one is two wheel drive and the other four. Seems to make more sense to me to leave them in the truck.
We live in a housing tract and although I've had this crane at my house several times for my rooftop a/c units, I'd like to have a good game plan to get him in and out of there quickly.

Will removing the fans and radiators be necessary? What about turbos?

 

[laserjock]

To get it out over the core support, it will have to have room to turn. You need to at a minimum, pull the radiator and probably the starter and oil filter. I haven't done a turbo truck yet but I suspect it will need to come off. At least the turbo if not the pipes. Somebody else will chime in. Riotwarrior ran through the procedure with me to pull the front clip. It's actually really easy. Might be worth the hassle if you've got someone to help you lift it off.

 

[idiabuse]

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transmission installed and turbo installed engine stuffed in the hole with not much room to spare, but works fine

 

[ironworker40]

I just did this in november. Consider pulling radiator support. I know you think you are saving time but if you do most of your work is standing up. You can stand and reach all the way to the turbo. Motor mounts can be done sitting in front of truck and the list goes on. I was glad I did. Fenders stay on. Hood can stay on if you use a cherry picker but you will have to pull the hood if you are using a crane.

Radiator is a must in my book. Is is worth damaging a radiator that expensive for 4 bolts. No way, pull it.

I would pulled the a/c condenser also because I do not see any way to position the compressor out of the way. The lines are too short. One line will have to be broken loose anyway so take the other line loose and 4 bolts and its out of the way. While you are in there, if you haven't had a/c serviced recently, check the orfice for the a/c to see if you have compressor seals going bad. Search for "black death" there are plenty of threads about it.

Power steering line can stay, remove 3 bolts and bracket a pump can be tied up off to the side. O wait mine is serpentine yours will be different.

I don't know about a C-6 but with my 5 speed and a ATS 093 3 " downpipe the trans would not go high enough with downpipe left in. The oil pan hit the cross member and the input was not clear of pressure plate. I was able to yank it out but it bent one the fingers on the pressure plate. It needed another 1/2 in or so. But this may not be a problem with a C-6 other can chime in.

 

[catbird7]

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[catbird7]

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Not sure what the problem is with attaching pics however I always have problems.

 

[snicklas]

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Not sure what the problem is with attaching pics however I always have problems.

Take a look at post #5 in this thread:

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?71849-93-CCD-Value-Bankskit-GV-Exhaust-brake-more

I made a "quick tutorial" on pics in that thread.......

 

[catbird7]

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[riotwarrior]

This has been talked to absolute death here in many 1st time pulling an engine threads....

IMO it is far superior to remove the clip, especially on the rig you are going to end up dropping engine into...the amount of room is absolutely crazy.

Personally I've done upwards of 100+ engine pulls swaps and so forth, the clip comes off each and every time IF I can it's deemed needed.

Trucks this size, and engines as filling as ours are make it a no brainer for me.

I'd have the clip of the truck engine is going into....pull it first, then go yank the donor engine and stuff it in the hole.

Or rent or buy an engine hoist....pull the clip on good truck pull engine....clean and paint frame etc prep for install of replacement engine...

Now go and get buddy to come over pick out engine and drive/swing what ever he has to do and drop it into place....

Pull starter...pull oil filter, good idea to rebuild oil cooler NOW!! DO IT NOW with engine out....you can literally do the old engines cooler then have it ready for install onto the replacement engine...

The list is longer but I'll leave ya with that ***** to ponder...

Or yank, yank, stuff, and hope for best...

JM2CW

 

[vegas39]

This has been talked to absolute death here in many 1st time pulling an engine threads....

IMO it is far superior to remove the clip, especially on the rig you are going to end up dropping engine into...the amount of room is absolutely crazy.

Personally I've done upwards of 100+ engine pulls swaps and so forth, the clip comes off each and every time IF I can it's deemed needed.

Trucks this size, and engines as filling as ours are make it a no brainer for me.

I'd have the clip of the truck engine is going into....pull it first, then go yank the donor engine and stuff it in the hole.

Or rent or buy an engine hoist....pull the clip on good truck pull engine....clean and paint frame etc prep for install of replacement engine...

Now go and get buddy to come over pick out engine and drive/swing what ever he has to do and drop it into place....

Pull starter...pull oil filter, good idea to rebuild oil cooler NOW!! DO IT NOW with engine out....you can literally do the old engines cooler then have it ready for install onto the replacement engine...

The list is longer but I'll leave ya with that ***** to ponder...

Or yank, yank, stuff, and hope for best...

JM2CW

Sounds like the front clip removal gets the most votes around here.

The 6.9 I'm installing, had head gaskets, studs and oil cooler rebuilt about 35,000 miles ago, so its good to go. I am going to swap a few externals around, glow plugs, controller etc.

I just replaced my a/c compressor last summer and it works great, really hate to tear the condenser out but I'm all for doing this as easy as possible and if removing the front is the way to go, I'll do it.

 

[towcat]

if you have a buddy with a wrecker, it would probably be cheaper on the hourly charge.
if you are pulling with the radiator support in place, pulling all the stuff in front of the timing cover plate is a absolute must. harmonic balancer included. radiator pull is a $500 no-brainer must.
if you are pulling with the radiator support removed, the front stuff can stay on, but the starter and oil filter removal is a must.