Powder coating vs POR-15

FORDF250HDXLT

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Yep, been there, done that, bought the t-shirt. I am telling you, that por-15 will fall off if you put it over rust. When it falls off, there will be more rust under that por-15 than when you started. :puke:

well,you don't put it on top of large loose rust scales.you have to make sure all the large loose junk is off so your not just painting literal rust chunks.
what they mean is non primed/spotlessly cleaned solid but rusty metal.
if you don't take the time to scrape off large chunks of rust that are about to fall off,then naturally,no paint whatsoever is going to stay once those rust chunks fall off.once those fall off,then moisture can of course get under the rest of it and rot it out,because its going to hold all that wet underneath it.
they don't mean to just slop the stuff on a 20 yr old truck frame without any prep work at all.
 

3/4 Ton-O-Fun

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RedTruck, the near side by side is exactly what I was hoping someone had already done for me ;) Like POR-15 on the frame next to powder coated springs and a season or ten seasons of off-roading...

Now I guess I have to find someone with some E-coating like the mill spec guys have.

As far as the investment of time and money is concerned... Short of me wrecking it, I hope this thing lasts me a long time, so the longer it lasts, the longer I can amortize it... Done once and done right is cheap no matter what it costs given a long enough service life.

Have I mentioned that this forum is great? Well it is. Glad to be a part of it!
 

Drew2010

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I used POR on the DMI bumper on my IDI, I did not buy the marine clean or any of the prep sprays, I wire wheeled and cleaned with wax and grease remover. Painted it of fairly thick with a brush and so far its held up great. A hell of a lot better then the etch primer and black paint on the DMI on my 96. The POR on the drawbar has held up surprisingly well even with pulling wagons and hay racks that use pins and ride directly on the drawbar.

The DMI bumper on my IDI has the chrome shell, there was slight rust on the back of it, So i coated the whole back side. I roughed up the chrome with a 3m scuff pad and only about a 4" x 2" section of the POR has peeled from the chrome. I think this is pretty impressive, because it was still fairly shiny when applied.

If my IDI gets what I have planned there will be a lot of POR in its future.

I would certainly recommend POR-15
 

MidnightBlade

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I did my frame with Hurculiner and 2 weeks through winter it had almost all rusted through and peeled off. As of right now I just spray some WMO on there (Yes, it has more than one use) and have no rust issues what-so-ever. I just put it in a white wash sprayer we made for trees and soak the entire bottom of the truck with it. and on the cab, if you still have the moulding on your doors take some Vaseline and rub it the whole way up your door to the moulding and pack some in the crack (no pun intended) between the moulding and door.

I think what FORDF250HDXLT meant by "rusty metal" is like rust as in "flash rust", when you grind a piece of metal clean and let it sit outside on a cool night it will have a slightly rusty film on it th next morning. An excellent example for this is Railroad tracks. a few minutes after the train goes by you can actually watch the tracks rust over again because they are so highly polished from the wheels of the train.

Oh, I almost forgot, :eek::idiot::drunk:


Welcome the the Brotherhood of OB :hail;Sweet;Sweet
 
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94f450sd

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wouldnt give 10 cents for that powder coat crap!a brand new ramp truck with a powder coated bed will look like hell in a couple months.if it was something that wasnt gonna be used then powder coat might be ok.ive used the POR-15 and id use it again.used it on the frame for my 66 grand prix.follow the directions and use thier prep products.i did my frame about 13 years ago.you can hit it with a hammer as hard as you can and it wont chip.ive tried it :D
 

Simmonscoating

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wouldnt give 10 cents for that powder coat crap!a brand new ramp truck with a powder coated bed will look like hell in a couple months.if it was something that wasnt gonna be used then powder coat might be ok.ive used the POR-15 and id use it again.used it on the frame for my 66 grand prix.follow the directions and use thier prep products.i did my frame about 13 years ago.you can hit it with a hammer as hard as you can and it wont chip.ive tried it :D

ill bet it was done wrong. let me send you a sample of my powder coating and i will burn up your compressor trying to sandblast it off. lol i have gone thru 2 husky compressers trying to get the powder of parts that costomers change there mind and want a different color. if por-15 was better than powder i would think people would not spend a 1000 dollars on ther rims if it were junk and just chip off. just dip in por-15 and go. and if you want a crazy good coating let me put a industrial powder 3 coats and a ceramic clear over it. Jesus will have retured before you get that off i promise. LOL
 

RedTruck

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Slightly off topic

SimmonsCoatings

Do you think you could do that to a steam engine boiler? Just the outside? It is roughly 6' tall 4' wide 12' long and weighs 25,000 lbs.

At some point I plan on having a new one built for a project, and as part of the building process the boiler needs to be heat treated. I was hoping to incorportate a powder coating process as part of the heat treat process.

Another concern I have about this is there are several people that have thought about going with a powder coated boiler, but they have thought it wouldn't look right with the thicker powder coating material. Could you comment on this?

If you all want I can PM this to SimmonsCoatings.

Thank you

Paul
 

Blind Driver2

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It's all about prepping the surface. That's where you need to spend 90% of your time. I used a wrinkled finish paint on my Scout's bumper three years ago and it still looks great;Sweet

The good thong about paint and POR15, is that they can both be touched up and drilled through.
 

94f450sd

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ill bet it was done wrong. let me send you a sample of my powder coating and i will burn up your compressor trying to sandblast it off. lol i have gone thru 2 husky compressers trying to get the powder of parts that costomers change there mind and want a different color. if por-15 was better than powder i would think people would not spend a 1000 dollars on ther rims if it were junk and just chip off. just dip in por-15 and go. and if you want a crazy good coating let me put a industrial powder 3 coats and a ceramic clear over it. Jesus will have retured before you get that off i promise. LOL

no thanks.a brand spankin new car carrier starts to look hideous after a few months when that crap starts peeling.not worth my time or money to mess with it.id rather stripit,etch prime,uro prime,seal,base and clear it.looks better than any powder coat to me.
 

Michael Fowler

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WOW---lets do an "oil" thread next!
I am a great fan of POR 15. I have used it over a 20 year period and have never been dissatisfied. I painted half a brake drum and sat it in a concrete curing moist room for a few months ( constant 69 degrees and moisture present on all surfaces with no deterioration observed)
Prep is important--While its name is Paint Over Rust, any LOOSE rust must be removed.
If applied thick enough, it flows out well and seems (to me) almost ceramic in appearance.
It contains some nasty stuff, so brushing is probably the better application method.
Don't skimp on the thickness. Wear gloves and protect all skin. Also don't put the lid back on the can if there is any POR 15 in the groove around the lid--it will bond and never come off.
I never had much success scuffing it up to improve top coat adhesion (too hard). I believe the instructions permit, and I prefer, dusting a light coat of primer on top of the POR15 while it is still tacky. That way the primer bonds to the POR 15 and the top coat bonds to the primer.
 

Fordman75

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My whole gasser project truck is going to get a coat of POR-15.:eek::D The chassis is going to get coated with POR-15 and then top coated with their 2-part Hardnose black paint. I'd take that combination over powder coating any day of the week!;Sweet That is some tough stuff!:D

From my experience POR-15 is tougher then powder coating!:D
 

Simmonscoating

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Slightly off topic

SimmonsCoatings

Do you think you could do that to a steam engine boiler? Just the outside? It is roughly 6' tall 4' wide 12' long and weighs 25,000 lbs.

At some point I plan on having a new one built for a project, and as part of the building process the boiler needs to be heat treated. I was hoping to incorportate a powder coating process as part of the heat treat process.

Another concern I have about this is there are several people that have thought about going with a powder coated boiler, but they have thought it wouldn't look right with the thicker powder coating material. Could you comment on this?

If you all want I can PM this to SimmonsCoatings.

Thank you

Paul

omg 25000 lbs that would fall straigt thru my cure oven""". SORRY bud but there is no way i could do something that heavy. and powder coating is not going to get you hot enough to heat treat any metal. i bake parts between 375 and 420 for 30 min depending on the power specs. i bake ceramics at 800for a hour. still not hot enough to heat treat. plus i do smaller stuff like custom motor cycleframes atvs engine parts rims ect,.
not sure what you mean about being to thick. powder is only about 2 to 3 mils of coating not much more than paint it can have additional coats but 2-to-3 mills is sufficient. over all not sure what your trying to achive or how much $ you want to spend but i would say get it heat treated first than pick a coating to go with. need more detail on your goals to better determine the direction.
 
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