Photos of Fuel Pressure Gauage Sender

[hesutton]

Mel and some other guys were asking about where I put my sender for the Autometer fuel pressure gauge in THIS POST. Well, it took almost a month, but better late than never. Here they are.

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Hope that helps.

Heath

 

[Exekiel69]

Do You have the feed, the sender and the return on the same line?
Nice to have an electric sender, I have a mech gauge but I used 6000psi hydraulic hose just in case it ever wants to leak.

 

[Cat_Rebel]

Thanks Heath, looks like a nice setup.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I know everyone gets all in a panic about mechanical fuel-pressure gauges inside the cab.

Mine, and any others I install, are always mechanical and plumbed direct, with fuel under pressure coming straight to the gauge.


The electric units are often inaccurate, although any gauge is much better than no gauge, and those fluid-hose extenders are way off.


Although diesel is not like gasoline, and a bath in fuel is more of an aggravation, than a danger, there are a few precautions that will prevent any fuel-spray disasters.

First, whether it be oil- or fuel-pressure, I install a 1/8-NPT ball-valve at the source, such that, in the event of a leak, I can shut off the valve and drive on.

Second, every fuel-pressure gauge installation requires a gauge "snubber", that absorbs the pulsations of the fuel-pump, and makes the reading steady, instead of constantly flinching with each stroke of the pump; without this "snubber", the gauge (and sender on an electrical unit) will not live long.

Third, use only good quality tubing and fittings, and some common sense in their routing; better yet is to have a braided stainless hose made for the run inside the cab.



A fuel-pressure gauge is probably by far the best diagnostic tool one can add to their engine.

Most other gauges can be done without and the truck live until the frame rusts in two.

Any fuel related issues are just guess work without a good fuel-pressure gauge.

Truck cranking but won't fire---is the gauge rising or laying on zero.

Engine getting sluggish---what is the gauge telling you.

Running fine, then dies all of a sudden---what was the gauge showing.




If only one gauge is installed, then put it between the filter and injector-pump, thus you can monitor how well the filter is flowing.

Better is to mount two gauges, one after the filter, and a second one ahead of the filter; thus, if pressure is low behind the filter, yet still good ahead of the filter, then you know that the filter is the problem; otherwise, one might replace a perfectly good filter when the problem lies within the lift-pump or plumbing.


I would spend my money on a fuel-pressure gauge before any other gauge.

 

[EMD_DRIVER]

DO you have a preference, as to which gauge to use? Also, do you have a part number and source for the "Snubber"?

every fuel-pressure gauge installation requires a gauge "snubber", that absorbs the pulsations of the fuel-pump, and makes the reading steady, instead of constantly flinching with each stroke of the pump; without this "snubber", the gauge (and sender on an electrical unit) will not live long.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

DO you have a preference, as to which gauge to use? Also, do you have a part number and source for the "Snubber"?

Scroll down to "pulsation damping snubber", 1/8-NPT (I use brass), and the finest orifice works best/longest.

If it costs more than ten-bucks, then you are looking at the wrong ones.

Sometimes that site link-defaults to home page; if so, just type what you need in the "search" and it will come up.

They also have the stainless ball-valves.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#



As for brand preference, I have used Stewart Warner and Sunpro with good success.

I have three brand new Autometer, but I am not impressed with their quality = all plastic and el-cheapo looking; I haven't installed them on anything yet.

The Stewart Warners and Sunpros are quality-looking brass housings, better lighting, etc., in my opinion.



Also, every one of my "fuel-pressure" gauges say "water-pressure" on the face.

These are exactly the same gauge as those saying "fuel", at about ten-percent of the price.

A Bourden tube gauge is a Bourden tube gauge, regardless of what it is measuring.


An oil-pressure gauge will work fine, except it is hard to find them in readings low enough for fuel.

You want a 270* sweep with the optimum pressure of your needs at the center of the range.

For these low-pressure set-ups, an 0-16-PSI gauge is about ideal.

On my piston-lift-pump Cummins, I use 0-30- or 0-35-PSI on them, as my lift-pump operates at around 15-17-PSI.

 

[sle2115]

I would think an electric pump would eliminate most of the pulsation as well. My gauge doesn't fluctuate at all and a good electric gauge is as accurate as a mechanical. I won't plumb any liquid like that into the cab.

 

[hesutton]

Ez, the return you seen up to the fuel filter is factory, the other return is at the rear drivers side fo the engine (also factory). The fuel gauge sees the pressure after the filter as fuel enters the IP feed line. No pulsation with the Autometer.

I too am very nervous about plumbing a mechanical fuel or oil pressure gauge in the cab.....just don't want the chance of getting either in the cab when on the road. But, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Might check you state's laws about mechanical fuel pressure gauges in the cab......it is not DOT legal in most. Autometer doesn't recommend using their mechanical fuel pressure gauge in the cab, it even says so on the gauge itself:

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Like MNR said above, it is a very handy/important gauge.

Heath

 

[Agnem]

Heath, thanks for the pics. Did you drill and tap that factory 90 degree fitting (which I'm so poor at trying to describe pip fittings/types/sizes, that I'll just refer to it as a thingamabob)? That's a nice electrical connector. Got any part numbers to share?

 

[hesutton]

It is the sender that comes with the Autometer Z-series gauge (part number 2661).

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Yup, drilled and taped the factory elbow.

Heath

 

[Agnem]

Cool! Thanks.