Parents want to go WVO, any good threads on it?

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

The search feature wont work searching for WVO or vegitable oil, so Im hoping you guys can point me in the right direction.
What all is involved, how much does it cost, where do you get it, can it be stockpiled, etc?
We're thinking of doing the whole fleet.

 

[hheynow]

Wisdom dictates that if you have one vehicle convert it. If you have a fleet make biodiesel. There is a lot if info HERE. Read the sticky "10 steps..." at the top of that page.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Wont do bio diesel. None of that soy crap. Its just as expensive as regular.

 

[Diesel JD]

That is, if you buy it its just as expensive. I'm paying around $1.33/gallon including .285/gallon FL road tax for homebrew from WVO. D2 is 3.39-3.69 in my area, its a real good savings. Plenty of info for WVO, it would be even cheaper if you could successfully do that, but you need to heat the WVO tanks and make darn sure you get all the water out of the WVO. I just don't like the acid in the oil, some of it is very, very acidic depending on where it comes from. We've had titration #s as high as 6.5. Not real good for your engine or fuel system.

 

[Ironman03R]

Good luck finding a good source for your WVO. I thought it was a great idea too until I realized that everyone around here sells it of uses it for themselves.

 

[Exekiel69]

There is a thread about this in the bio-fuel forum, it is becoming a problem in some areas to find or keep sources for wvo, thankfully is not everywhere yet .
As stated before, with so many IDI's (if You plan to use it in all of them) You are better off making BD, bc once You run out of sources You'll regret having all that money in a conversion.

 

[LA350]

I have pondered trying this:
http://www.dieselsecret.com/notbiodiesel.html

 

[Exekiel69]

I have pondered trying this:
http://www.dieselsecret.com/notbiodiesel.html

This super easy deals always make Me want to wait for someone to try it first . Hope it isn't just a bottle full of Marvel oil additive

Moderator.
Can we take this thread to the bio fuels forum? It would be good to know what the others think about this. Thank You.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

This super easy deals always make Me want to wait for someone to try it first . Hope it isn't just a bottle full of Marvel oil additive

Moderator.
Can we take this thread to the bio fuels forum? It would be good to know what the others think about this. Thank You.

Sounds good to me too. Move it and lets find out the truth about this program.

Another question, I've heard that the ultra low sulfer soy biodiesel they are selling at the stations ruins our injection systems, is this true?

 

[LA350]

From the reading I have been doing, bio actually is better for lubrication. Many have reported a quieting of their engine since use. YMMV.

 

[h2odrx]

Sounds good to me too. Move it and lets find out the truth about this program.

Another question, I've heard that the ultra low sulfer soy biodiesel they are selling at the stations ruins our injection systems, is this true?

ULSD will kill the IP

Biodiesel if made correctly will not harm the IP

 

[bbressler]

I'll throw my 2 cents in on the topic.

The DSE Diesel Secret Energy is snake oil.... you'll be doing just as well to run regular WVO WITHOUT their special additive. Or, you could throw in some Used motor oil. Just don't pay for their junk. Please.

While I haven't run WVO, I have done quite a bit of research on both WVO and biodiesel.

With WVO, you're converting the vehicle to fit the fuel. This means heated tanks, lines, filters, etc. If you need to trade the vehicle or something, you loose your investment. It IS a lot faster to make. And should be free, depending on your location.

With Biodiesel, you modify the fuel to fit the vehicle. You can make it and use it in ANY diesel engine without mods. Nothing special needs to be done on the vehicle. It does take some hands on time to make it. It's cost can be as little as $.50/gallon and up to about $1.50 (My last batch was $.65). If you need to trade your vehicle in, you still have your equipment. Biodiesel gels at a higher temp than regular diesel, so you have to blend with regular or go back to regular in winter months.

I can say that the lubrication and viscosity properties of biodiesel will far surpass those of WVO. In my opinion, there is less a chance of fouling up your fuel system with gummy WVO...but that's just my opinion. I've spilt WVO in my truck bed and I've spilt biodiesel on my truck bed. I can tell which on I'd rather have INSIDE my engine...

Either way, do your homework and make sure your fuel (WVO or Bio) is good and water free. The biggest problem users of these products face is fuel that has been made improperly.

Like was said earlier, it would be better to make bio for a fleet situation. You can have a big reactor to make a bunch of fuel at once that can be used in all of the vehicles.

 

[bubbahzanetti]

I've been running VO for about a year now, the infopop forum is really good and the frybrid.com forum is excellent. Plenty of free vo out there if you look for it. IMHO the Frybrid kit is the best, but you have to wait forever for them. Stay away from the greasecar kits although some of their components(i.e. valves) are ok. FRybid has free plans for a VO still that works really good for filtering and dewatering. Chck out the "resources" tab on thier website. My .02
BZ

 

[LA350]

I've spilt WVO in my truck bed and I've spilt biodiesel on my truck bed. I can tell which on I'd rather have INSIDE my engine...

Not trying to stir the pot but that is akin to saying you had spilled crude oil and MoGAS, then compairing the difference. Of course there will be differences between the 2. One had been processed and the other is raw product.

It is true that your unprocessed oil needs to be filtered and free of "free" water. Oil filtration is easy. The best found way is to use a centrifuge, although straining through various mediums An easy test for water is the crackle test:

Water Contamination Tests
a. Crackle Test
(1) Scope. Water contamination refers to the presence of free water or coolant in used lubricants originating from faulty cooling systems, condensation caused by improper operation, or careless contamination
of the oil system or storage containers. This test is a qualitative determination of free water in used lubricating oils, and is performed on non-aeronautical samples.
(2) Summary of Method. Water held in suspension by emulsifiers becomes audible (crackles) and visible as bubbles and steam when drops of oil are placed on a heated surface of approximately 300° to 350°F (150° to 177°C).
(3) Equipment/Apparatus/Materials.
(a). Hot Plate, thermostatically controlled.
(b) Thermometer. Surface thermometer (PTC, Spot Check R Model 572F, Fisher Scientific Catalog Number 15-170D, 18° to 260°C (50° to 500°F) or equivalent).
(4) Operation/Procedures.
WARNING
Testing must be conducted in a fume hood. Persons performing test must wear protective goggles and clothing and avoid direct contact with hot plate surface reaction.
(a) Heat hot plate to surface temperature of 300 to 350°F (150° to 177°C).
(b) Shake sample vigorously.
(c) Drop one or two drops of oil on the heated surface of the hot plate and observe the reaction.
(d) Record the reaction as positive (1), meaning bubbles were present; or negative (0), meaning
bubbles were not present.
(e) Wipe off the hot plate surface between samples.
(5) References/Guidelines.
(a) General. The crackle test indicates whether water is present. If the exact amount of water is desired, the Karl Fischer test for water shall be conducted .
1. The blotter spot will often indicate water/glycol content by poor dispersancy and a spot that remains wet longer than normal.
2. Spectrometric analysis can indicate the presence of coolant by the levels of sodium and boron, which are used as additives in coolants. If no new oil has been added to the system, an increase of 20 parts per million or more of one of these elements is reason to suspect coolant contamination.
3. Free water from condensation or external contamination will not be accompanied by high levels or sudden increase in sodium or boron. An exception to this is the analysis of marine diesel engine samples. When water is present in these samples, there will frequently be an increase in sodium levels because seawater is used as the engine coolant.
4. In addition to these tests, attention should be given to the oil’s appearance. A gray color or visible emulsion in the oil may be an indication of water or coolant contamination.

WAKE UP!! hahaha Straight from the book. That stuff can be pretty boring.