Overdrive inverter...how to lock out e40d OD?

FORDF250HDXLT

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A little note about this kit. When the OD is locked out it will not and more pressure to the coast clutch. This only happens in M1 and M2.

Other than that little blooper, not a bad idea for cruising around town.:D

thank you.i didn't think that statement was correct myself.iv been playing w/ OD lock out button last few days,and i was and still am dang sure i only feel the additional "hail marry" :D in M1 and M2 (well,iv never used manual 1st at any speed to ever require using that one.so just M2 is the only time iv felt it.)

actually,
that's kinda too bad isn't it.that would be kinda nice if it was the case.must not be safe for coast clutch engagement in 3rd? or even possible? otherwise,id bet they'd done that for us.
thoughts?

hmmm.just dawned on me,that when twitching logs/tree's i should be making sure to always use M1 or M2 shouldn't i? it may not mean a whole lot,but technically,this would be easier on the trans correct?

sorry for the hijack op!
just these last couple comments got me thinking.
 
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rjjp

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thank you.i didn't think that statement was correct myself.iv been playing w/ OD lock out button last few days,and i was and still am dang sure i only feel the additional "hail marry" :D in M1 and M2 (well,iv never used manual 1st at any speed to ever require using that one.so just M2 is the only time iv felt it.)
...

Little FYI, on all the IDIs with an E4OD I've played with (and according to my owners manual, yes I read it), M2 will downshift at any speed and can/will over rev the engine, M1 the computer takes over and won't downshift until safe to do so.
 

trackspeeder

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Little FYI, on all the IDIs with an E4OD I've played with (and according to my owners manual, yes I read it), M2 will downshift at any speed and can/will over rev the engine, M1 the computer takes over and won't downshift until safe to do so.

What happens in general with a stock tranny. When you downshift M2 at a higher speed, you get a feeling of nothing. The engine will rev up, but the clutch will start to slip. This not good for the tranny. The mods to correct this will ramp the pressure up plus correct the M1 issues.
When this is done M1 will put you into the steering wheel if shifted at a higher speed.:D The TCM has no control, just the operator.;Sweet
 

trackspeeder

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What are those mods you mention? I have the Transgo (non-tugger) kit, the .472" Sonnax line pressure valve, and accumulator body fill ports opened up slightly for faster gear engagement. No pump mods done by me, may not even need them tho since this is a rebuilt trans to begin with (and already had the shift kit when I opened it for surgery). Does Ford affix an aluminum tag to the trans case on the left side behind the MLPS? I got one, but whatever was on it has been washed off, so no real way of knowing what it once said. What I'm seeing when downshifting into M1 at speed is a 2-3 second delay from moving the shifter to clutches actually engaging, but when they do finally catch decel is so good I once got a Buick up my trailer's bumper - is that delay normal behavior, or reasons for concern?

A 2 to 3 second delay is fine. Longer would be a concern. A stock unit can delay 4 to 5 seconds. Then when the clutch dose grab, it slips. You get this weird feeling that nothing is happening. The engine is holding back, but the clutch dosn't have the holding power to do its job.:eek:
 

rjjp

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What happens in general with a stock tranny. When you downshift M2 at a higher speed, you get a feeling of nothing. The engine will rev up, but the clutch will start to slip. This not good for the tranny. The mods to correct this will ramp the pressure up plus correct the M1 issues.
When this is done M1 will put you into the steering wheel if shifted at a higher speed.:D The TCM has no control, just the operator.;Sweet

A 2 to 3 second delay is fine. Longer would be a concern. A stock unit can delay 4 to 5 seconds. Then when the clutch dose grab, it slips. You get this weird feeling that nothing is happening. The engine is holding back, but the clutch dosn't have the holding power to do its job.:eek:

:dunno Mine, and a few others that I've played with, 60-65 shove it into M2 running empty, and the back tires immediately start sliding (and the engine screaming), if you shove it into M1 it will kick into 3rd, then 2nd, then 1st. (can you tell that I don't really care for automatics?). O yes, and either way it does tend to mess up any one that is tailgating the truck at the time.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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if i toss mine in 2nd,there's no delay at all.she's in 2.however i usually just let it find 2nd on it's own.
it's only been 3-4 times where iv manually downshifted myself.just to see how the coast clutch feels.even then it's been after she's kicked down herself anyway.once or twice iv hit 2nd before she's auto kicked down (but i knew it was about to anyway.)iv no real reason to try and get extra rev's from her.she'll find second when loaded up going uphill and tach up 3k+ rpm as is.usually before she looses 40-45 mph/2500 + rpm in 3rd as long as iv got her to the floor board.:)
tps settings set to revised bulletin 186A.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?4134-Whats-a-FIPL&p=316675&viewfull=1#post316675

my truck has 3.84 effective gearing.
no way id want to see what happens trying to M2 @50 mph.:D
that might work ok with 3.55's and stock 235 tires though.not too sure.
 
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trackspeeder

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:dunno Mine, and a few others that I've played with, 60-65 shove it into M2 running empty, and the back tires immediately start sliding (and the engine screaming), if you shove it into M1 it will kick into 3rd, then 2nd, then 1st. (can you tell that I don't really care for automatics?). O yes, and either way it does tend to mess up any one that is tailgating the truck at the time.


:rotflmao I like auto and I do that stuff.:D I wont say what I do to ZF's.:eek: LOL

Usually the clutch slips but at 65 you never know what it will do. With mods when you shift to first the engine will come apart at those speeds.:D
 

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Any one who want the transmission to default to od off can do it simply by bypassing the od switch itself, which switches back to its default position when it looses power. Install a toggle switch that will stay in the off position when the truck is turned off. Take the plastic cover on the steering column and find the 3 wires going into the shifter handle. The red wire with yellow stripe is the power wire from ignition. The other two wires is a white wire with a green line and a tan with white line. I don't remember which one is od on and od off but all you have to is wire in a toggle that will supply power from the red wire to the other two wires separately depending on which way the switch is. Wire it up and go for a drive it it switched in to od the other position on the switch will be od off or visa versa. This should work because the pcm decides if it can shift into od based on the voltage coming from on of the two wires If you still want the od light to work and give error codes pick a switch that has a light built into it. I have not performed this mod myself but have been considering it since I have traced a short to the od button itself. I came across this thread researching od lock out.
 

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