Ok to use blue loctite on timing bolts for the IP?

[mankypro]

is this OK?

 

[typ4]

Yep

 

[Agnem]

Not necessary though. I've never used it on any of mine, and never had a problem.

 

[mankypro]

A torque wrench that goes down to 7 lbs (of any quality) is around $150.00 simoleans around here, so I'm going to snug and a smidge - so I thought the loctite might make sure that the little suckers don't come out (as they clearly have in the past) and chew more stuff up in there.

Also one other question:

Is it normal for the timing gear plate to have about 1/16"-1/8" back and forth movement (toward the radiator and IP)

Not necessary though. I've never used it on any of mine, and never had a problem.

 

[icanfixall]

Those three injection pump 5/16 bolts require 25 lbs of torque. Where are you getting this 7 lbs torque from??? Blue loctite is not needed but its a great safety factor. Just make sure things are really clean and use the blue. That gear will move back and forth when the injection upmp is removed from it. Now if it has that much gear lash then it may need some work. Like replacing the gear or both that and the cam gear along with the crank gear. May as well do it all so nothing is left for next time.

 

[sle2115]

I use red...and I have the proper torque wrench, but they get loctite anyway.

 

[HammerDown]

Those three injection pump 5/16 bolts require 25 lbs of torque. Where are you getting this 7 lbs torque from???...

Maybe here...http://oilburners.net/brian/idi/FuelInjectionServicing.htm...with a little confusion tossed in.

"Align the timing marks (factory scribed lines if new pump, or the marks you made if the old pump is going back on) and tighten the three 9/16” nuts. Install the 3 bolts into the injection pump gear and thread them into the injection pump gear flange. Tighten to 7 ft-lbs."

*In preparation to install my new IP and Injectors I've been reading the above tech article.

 

[Agnem]

Unless that was an editing error, that torque value came out of my service manual. When I tighten them, I use a small box end wrench, and just apply as much force as my thumb can withstand. Has worked for me for years. I'm a big fan of torque wrenches, but like others have said I don't have one that goes that low.

 

[HammerDown]

I have a inch-lb torque wrench I can convert to ft/lbs but as Mel stated a firm snug would make good...of course I'll also add a tiny dot of Loctite

 

[mankypro]

uuuuuh, that's problematic. I have neither the skills or the money to do either.

I just checked again and I figure it's somewhere between 1/16th and 1/32nd. Well I'm bolting it all together and hoping for the best.

Those three injection pump 5/16 bolts require 25 lbs of torque. Where are you getting this 7 lbs torque from??? Blue loctite is not needed but its a great safety factor. Just make sure things are really clean and use the blue. That gear will move back and forth when the injection upmp is removed from it. Now if it has that much gear lash then it may need some work. Like replacing the gear or both that and the cam gear along with the crank gear. May as well do it all so nothing is left for next time.

 

[HammerDown]

uuuuuh, that's problematic. I have neither the skills or the money to do either.

I just checked again and I figure it's somewhere between 1/16th and 1/32nd. Well I'm bolting it all together and hoping for the best.

Let me know how you make out with the 'priming/getting the air out' as well as static time/start the beast.
My IP and Injectors should be here tomorrow however my new return line kit will be later this week...I'll be turning wrenches shortly after on a good weather day AND allow a solid day for F-ups and posting here for HELP!

 

[mankypro]

I did my injectors and return lines when I was NA - it's a walk in the park - just don't reef on the caps or even put any pressure on them the nipples have a bad habit of breaking off. Always keep you old ones around in case you crack or break one inadvertently.

As far as the IP is concerned it's easy - just go slowly.

Bleeding air - not a big deal I've had to do it a few times before this. Maybe I just have a real strong lift pump. Of which I have anew one in the shop and I'm going to install after I get my IP timed dynamically.

 

[icanfixall]

Those three 5/16 hex bolts are hardened bolts that are the same as the rear universal joint bolts. Napps sells them. I got the 25 lbs of torque value here somewhere and have double checked it with my Navistar book. The four bolts that hold the gear cover to the block are 14 lbs. Those are the long 3/8 bolts. Nowhere can I find the 7 lbs torque value on anything associated with the injection pump. Where are you guys getting this reading from so I might read up on it and update my findings.