oil pressure fluctuating [PICS]

steelheadguy

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Today while idling at the post office I noticed my oil pressure gauge was all the way to left on the L. It would raise to normal once I was at cruising speed. For the 2 years Ive had the truck it has always read high.
I checked the dipstick and it said fine. So I went ahead and gave it an oil change with rotella 15-40 and an fl-1995.
When I first started it up with the fresh oil it slowly raised to normal, while still parked idling. Started driving and everything seemed fine. But then at the first stop it dropped all the way back down. The gauge reads 12 oclock normal while cruising.

A couple days ago I deleted my banks airbox and cdr for a big donaldson filter and road draft tube. Im not sure if this started happening at the same time.

Any clues? What to check? I know I should probably get a better gauge but what can I check know? Truck in my signature.
 

steelheadguy

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I am clueless when it comes to installing a new gauge or even locating the factory one. Does it have to do with the steel braided line to the turbo?

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steelheadguy

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Bought my new gauge at Oreillys for $20. Just need to find the best spot to tap into.
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genscripter

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Last year, my oil pressure gauge went to hell just like you described. Long story short: the sender failed. You can replace the sender from places like Rockauto for relatively cheap. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...tch+&+relay,oil+pressure+sender+/+switch,4588

However, like @nostrokes mentioned, an aftermarket gauge is the way to go. I put in a mechanical guage (exactly the same one you pictured) and used that to get an idea of my actual pressure than the idiot guage on the Ford system. While at the time, it was prudent for me to get anything installed that could give me accurate pressure readings. However, that stupid nylon hose eventually after a year got brittle and started leaking black engine oil all over my dash. I'm currently in the process of replacing all my mechanical gauges to electrical, because 1.) the drippy oil and fuel is a PITA and 2.) electrical gauges allow me to extend the wires as far as I want in the cab, and not limited to a specified length.
 

nostrokes

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My mechanical gauge has been in for 5 years. I installed it using copper instead of the nylon.


Mine has been in for 2 years with no issue. Planning on going to copper line in the future. My 88 gasser had nylon for 10 plus and never leaked.
 

Macrobb

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Nylon or copper should work.. as long as you are careful and don't disturb it. Copper work-hardens, and gets brittle as you flex it; nylon evenually gets brittle and will crack on you if you flex it too far.
 

icanfixall

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As already posted.. The factory gauge on the dash is mostly useless. Mechanical or electric will give you a better idea of your oil pressure.
 

steelheadguy

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Im guessing this is the oil pressure sender for a banks turbo? Dang, the problem is most likely the heavily taped up wire.
 

IDIBRONCO

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That is the factory sender in it's new location. Originally it's in a port that is directly underneath the turbo on the back side on the block. it's behind the intake manifold, in front of the adapter plate. It's hard to get to with a turbo installed. The pictured location would be a good place to tap into the oil system.
 

steelheadguy

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Ok I removed the original sender. Screwed my nylon and compression fittings in the same spot and now I have a real oil pressure gauge.

All is well in the world. At idle the gauge reads 12-25 and driving is 25-40. Sound good?
 

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