oil pan replacement

[quickster]

that's what I was thinking originally. A self tap framing screw with a rubber washer , then coat it in rtv. After all the snow gets out of here.

 

[riotwarrior]

JM2CW...

but I'm going to offer some thoughts...

Here it is...clean pan to bare metal, drain it of oil, clean exceptionally well (brake clean) and get Sealall and apply it to pan when empty, just a bit and force a tiny bit into the hole to create a self clinging *********** internally.

I've used sealall on fuel tanks while leaking and was able to get the leak to stop! Yes it does work that well!

Apply several layers and you should be good to go. Refill with oil and yer off!

Second method... clean pan to bare metal, again ensuring empty...apply solder past and tin pan and apply a copper plate patch over hole by soldering in place....similar to what a rad shop would use. Heck they may be able to do the patch for ya for a fee????

There that be my tips for the day

 

[Kistthesky]

i once ran over something on the interstate with a gasser that put a few small holes in the bottom of the gas tank. i completely drained the tank, cleaned the area & roughed it up then applied jb weld to it forcing some into the tank & let it dry for a day or 2. had the car for a few more years and never leaked!

 

[quickster]

thanks for all the ideas. When I get a chance I'm going to try a framing screw with a rubber washer. If that doesn't work either JB weld or solder some copper on the pan. The hole from the screw will be there to hold the JB. If none of those work, I'll put in the new pan in the spring. I have one so what the hell.

 

[jhenegh]

I put an 8" JB weld "diaper" on my an that got me through last winter and this summer. I cleaned the whole thing down to bare metal with a wire brush on a grinder. I put one self tapper bathed in JB through one larger pinhole and other than that just used JB like bondo. If I had known/thought of the vacuum truck I bet it would have lasted longer, some oil got out between the JB and pan and it eventually fell off 6-8 months later.

I pulled the engine out this fall and out a new pan on, and took the "while it's out..." mentality and did a bunch of other work too.

Epoxy putty bought me time to save up and learn what all I wanted to fix while the engine was out and on the engine stand.

 

[Michael Fowler]

Second post says it all
"The oil pump needs to be removed and dropped in the pan before the pan can be removed. Installation is the reverse, easier said than done. "

Would be OK, if you had a second wrist joint at 90 degrees to the standard one we all have.
I pulled the pan once on a 6.9 and changed bearings in the truck--NEVER AGAIN!

 

[icanfixall]

Second post says it all
"The oil pump needs to be removed and dropped in the pan before the pan can be removed. Installation is the reverse, easier said than done. "

Would be OK, if you had a second wrist joint at 90 degrees to the standard one we all have.
I pulled the pan once on a 6.9 and changed bearings in the truck--NEVER AGAIN!

Yes.. A second wrist joint would help. So would a 2 piece oil pan. Say one that had a removeable deep sump. Doubt you would even have to remove the oil pump but the suction.. Yes..

 

[TahoeTom]

Be sure to tie a string to your wrench. I dropped a couple wrenches in the pan before I figured that out. A removable cross member maybe.

 

[sassyrel]

thanks for all the ideas. When I get a chance I'm going to try a framing screw with a rubber washer. If that doesn't work either JB weld or solder some copper on the pan. The hole from the screw will be there to hold the JB. If none of those work, I'll put in the new pan in the spring. I have one so what the hell.

one post says youll blow the truck up because of flammables......................................