Oil Changing, Engine Hot or Cold???

Sw1tchfoot

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If the engine was brought to full operating tempature and then you let it cool down and change then oil cold I don't see the problem. Starting the engine and getting it warmed up.. and you are just pumping oil to the top of the motor.. when you arlready had it sitting in the pan.
 

NTOLERANCE

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what do you guys do to pull the filter off...it tried the belt method with no success. I assume a oversized filter wrench would do that trick


I have an oversized wrench, I beleive its made by Lisle. I THINK their part number is 53700...maybe 54200.

Works fine.
 

OLDBULL8

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I change mine when it's hot without donning protective gear in Ohio, but when in California I put on the protective gear because the oil may contain ingredients that may cause Cancer. How about it Towcat?
 

jaluhn83

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Hot.

If it's cold then any particles, varnish, etc will stay and not drain out, plus it take longer to drain.

If you run the engine and then let it sit 10 min or more pretty much all the oil the drain back to the pan when it's sitting will have already so you gain nothing doing it cold.
 

SparkandFire

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Hot ...

One of my first jobs was a grease monkey at a trucking outfit. One of my first ass chewings came from the old man who owned the outfit after I changed the oil on a truck that had been sitting cold for a few days.

I don't know if there is any logic in it, but everytime I change my oil I can picture Old Man Mashburn yelling expletives at me about changing oil cold.

The pain of the hot oil on the back of your hand is small potatoes compared to a lifetime of being reminded about doing things "the wrong way"

:D

Oil filter wrench is my "Big ***" channel locks, which is one of the most versatile tools I carry behind the seat.

http://www.channellock.com/480-BigAZZ-Straight-Jaw-Plier.aspx
 

Mulochico

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Warm after full warmup for above stated reasons.

As for filter removal I have a very large pair of channel-locks I got 30 some odd years ago. Not worried about damage to the filter and I have tried strap wrenches, filter wrenches, and any # of assorted other ways and always go back to the channel-locks. :sly
 

flareside_thun

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Definitely scalding hot. I used to be a pit monkey at a Valvoline QuikLube so the heat of everything doesn't bother me much. A happy engine is a clean engine.
 

hesutton

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Hot.

BlackStone labs recommends it, and they know a heck of alot more about engine oil than I do.

Heath
 

BrandonMag

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Well, my response is cold... but reading this thread has caused me to change my mind. Next time I change my oil (I hit 3K in about 900 miles), I'll warm the engine up and punch a hole in the filter.
 

Hydro-idi

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I always change my oil when the engine is nice and hot. But an oil change is an oil change. As long as all of the oil is drained out of the pan and the filter is changed, nothing else really matters all that much in my opinion. I think that the mileage of an oil change is the most important.
 

IH POWER

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I change mine while its hot. Like really hot. Hotter the better. I just pull the plug and let it drain and just carefully but quickly pull the filter off. (While wearing rubber dishwashing gloves) Like stated above, when its hot everything flows better and wont stick.
 

dgr

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I must be missing something here.

How do all the varnish causing agents know ahead of time I'm going to change my oil so they can avoid draining to the pan in anticipation of wreaking havoc in my engine? I'd like to get more of the used oil out of the engine, not less and I imagine a lot of it is clinging to the inside of a recently ran engine. Which to me means a long wait for it to get to the pan and I don't think that oil draining to the pan knows whether or not the drain plug has been removed from it. Seems to me that when the engine sits overnight, the amount of oil in the oil pan approaches maximum which would mean the amount of varnish producing agents and contamination left in the engine is at a minimum. Albeit we have thicker oil clinging to the smooth walls of the oil pan but I doubt the volume of that would compare to the warm oil clinging to the rest of the mostly rough cast block.

The only argument I can think of against that is that a recently ran engine has the maximum amount of contaminants suspended in the oil and not sitting in the bottom of the pan where they might not be carried out by the oil as it drains.

When you guys change it hot, how long do you really let it drain? Until the last drip, until it starts dripping instead of a stream, until the thick stream becomes a thin stream, OR, once you're done changing the filter and wiping the 15w40 out of your ear and armpit? I think I am going to try the last next time I change, hot, then put the plug back in and see how much oil ends up in the pan a few hours later.

Frame of reference alert: It doesn't really get COLD where I live so I have no experience draining oil wearing insulated carhart coveralls.

Not to single anyone out but Blackstone recommends a hot sample to "...help cook out any normal moisture or fuel build-up."

Anyone know how much oil is left in the oil cooler? Probably a waste of time worrying about ounces when there are pints that are never coming out during a change.
 

Banks7.3IDI

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I just changed it a few hours ago...hot. Dunno about getting more sludge out, for me it's just not realistic to let the giant 444 sit for 40 days and 40 nights to cool off....it's my only vehicle so the less down time the better
 
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