Newb water pump questions

[BrianX128]

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Success! Just needed a gigantic swing from the intoxicated neighbor. Now if only I had the daylight to finish lol.. oh well at least I'm in the right direction. Gonna go for a drive fanless and see how she stays cool.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Just be careful around those stop signs and stop lights.

 

[Hydro-idi]

If you heated up the fan clutch nut, you will likely have to replace it. There is a seal in there that will melt if you heat it up during disassembly.
Always a good idea to replace it when doing a water pump anyways.

 

[BrianX128]

Went for a quick 15 minute cruise. It's down to the 50's already and I live pretty far from stop lights.. signs optional. Didn't notice anything different. Mechanical gauge stayed at 185, but I wasn't working it much. Just wanted to see if there was a power difference while I contemplated e fans.

Anywho, I got everything off and labeled but the pump as I'm letting the block and radiator drain over night to try and make less of a mess. Got my brackets out of the way as well.

I'm still confused about the following: my very top left bolt that's in the timing cover area is missing? To the left of the heater hose in this picture:

You must be registered for see images attach

So I'm curious what type of bolt goes there so I can try and put one in while I'm doing this, and two would you guys leave that stud with the nut in the top left bolt that gets thread sealant alone or replace it with the bolt I'm supposed to use from the water pump kit [if it even moves]..

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Where is your temp gauge sending unit?

 

[BrianX128]

Overtemp sensor location

 

[79jasper]

Apple's to oranges, but I drove my PSD around fanless for awhile. Went from fall to spring like that.
But they do run cooler anyways. But I did have a 203° thermostat.

Also, I had heated the nut on mine, still working fine. (But it wasn't heated to the point of stuff oozing out) Though I did have to knock some burrs off the nut.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Golden Helmet]

Went for a quick 15 minute cruise. It's down to the 50's already and I live pretty far from stop lights.. signs optional. Didn't notice anything different. Mechanical gauge stayed at 185, but I wasn't working it much. Just wanted to see if there was a power difference while I contemplated e fans.

When I did my water pump, I initially ran it fanless for a while like you are now. I didn't notice any difference in power going from my old fan / clutch to fanless, but a few weeks later when I got the fan put back on with a new clutch, I noticed the sharp drop in power instantly. And it got a LOT louder, I've never gotten it hot enough for the clutch to fully engage but there is a very noticeable difference in the fan noise just driving around town. If you're not feeling much of a difference in power running fanless, your fan clutch has been shot for a long time.

Here's a video about fans and fan clutches, they put an engine on a dyno and tested it with several different setups. You can see how much horsepower their fan clutch cost, I would imagine our fans are bigger and kill even more horsepower. When you don't make that much HP to begin with, that loss hurts even more. I want to do an E-fan swap eventually just to get those ponies back, it's no turbo but it does give us poor N/A guys a little something extra to work with.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I can't remember right off without looking, but I'd say that it's a water pump bolt. As I recall, there's 14 bolts holding the water pump on. 4 long ones, all the same length, the 2 at the top, and the others are all the same length. I said the top seperately since some have the shorter bolts in the top two holes. Anyway, check out the number of bolts to see if there's one missing. Since it's right beside where the heater hose comes in, obviously there will be coolant there which needs to be sealed with a bolt. It doesn't mean that it's leaking now, just that there should be a bolt there.

 

[Hydro-idi]

E-fans are great, especially when the in-line fuse blows and your engine overheats because fans don't turn on.
My Jeep had an e-fan conversion on it when I bought it. Next day I ripped all that electric crap out and put a mechanical fan & clutch in there. Didn't notice any loss of power either when I made the swap.
There's a reason why many diesel pickups don't have electric fans on them. They don't work well with certain applications.

 

[Macrobb]

What *should* happen is that the fan clutch is supposed to freewheel... until it gets too hot at which point it locks.
So you shouldn't have much of any real drag on the engine until it gets hot, at which point it'll start sucking down quite a few HP... far more than an E-fan could ever put out. Which is a Good Thing, if you need cooling.

I've also driven around fanless a couple of times; it took towing a trailer fanless to finally make me decide to reinstall it - mainly when going at a low speed.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

E-fans are great, especially when the in-line fuse blows and your engine overheats because fans don't turn on.

Mine have been fused with a fuseable link for the past few years.Something like a bad motor or a short would need to happen,for it to burn out.The only time the fans need to work is primarily at idle and hill climbs,mainly in July-Sep.
I could very easily e-fan my F450 too,without issues,if I felt the desire.

Overtemp sensor location

I wonder why the engine is running below thermostat temp,especially as measured at the over temp port in the head,where there is a 5-10*F higher reading than normal.
Both my trucks,come up to and run around 200-210 once up to temp,no to light load.Auto meter gauges(one mechanical,one electrical),with senders also in the over temp port.

 

[BrianX128]

It's just the way the gauge reads honestly. My old gauge was electrical and it read around 195-200 but the moment you turned on lights or the a.c. or something it messed with it. I moved most of my gauges to mechanical now but temp ones always seem to read slightly low for me with the exception of oil pressure which is ass backwards.

The same gauge does the same thing in both of my straight sixes also. But either way I replaced the thermostat and bought a new fan clutch. Just hoping for enough daylight when I get home to pull the old pump and swap the new one on tonight so I can let everything sit and dry overnight.

 

[BrianX128]

You must be registered for see images attach

Got the old pump off. There wasn't a ton of wobble by any means but the bearings were very gritty and hard to turn.

I got the new pump on with some create a gasket goop on both sides of the gasket and used it on my 4 bolts as well as a thread sealant and tightened everything up to dry for a day.

Just gotta bolt my accessories back on and fill it with coolant and go for a drive this week and I'll be done. I scraped the gasket surface good and filed the back of the new pump lightly so I think I should have good tight seal.

Man that heater hose fitting was in the old pump TIGHT.

This hasn't been bad, but has been crazy time consuming doing everything else outside of actually removing and installing pumps. That took 15 minutes? Oh well. Almost there. Thanks again for all the help along the way, I'll post up this week once I fill it and go for a ride.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

yea, i always crack the heater hose tube loose before removing the pump. lol