New to the Forum, and my 6.9IH

[whiteman]

Hi there

Just thought i would introduce myself and my new to me truck.
This is the first diesel I have owned and look forward to tuning it.

I just picked up a 1985 F250 2wd Explorer 6.9 4spd D70 bla bla bla

The friend who I picked it up from burned out the glow plugs, upon removal I found every single auto light GP burned out and swollen badly.
I was able to carefully retrieve all glow plugs from the driver side with no issues. Then came the passenger side; two have broke off inside the head and now I get to fiddle around with trying to retrieve them. I ordered a fel-pro head gasket kit because I am sure it will lead to this alternative in the end.

I am going to start this evening on the retrieval process. I will let you guy's know how it goes. I plan on trying the vacuum/compressor trick and anything else I can come up with.

I found lot's of good info on this site, and look forward to learning much more abut my new diesel.

Wish me luck

 

[alienturtle]

Welcome! We have seen time and time again that autolite and champion plugs will do what you have described. Replacing with ZD9's seem to be a trend around here. Hope you can get them out without having to pull the head off. those suckers are heavy. again welcome to the forum. there is a wealth of knowledge and bad spelling around here so ask away!

 

[Diesel_brad]

Welcome and good luck getting the tips out. As stated above, the motorcraft and beru's are the GPs to have in these trucks

 

[WrickM]

i can't remeber when i saw it now, but if you hand rotate each cylinder to TDC ("unplug" the IP first) then use compressed air in the glow plug hole to blow a broken tip out of the injector hole. A lot of work but better than removing the head. I'd use a nice magnet too.

 

[whiteman]

Yes this is exactly what I am going to try and do. I believe I found a good article on this procedure on Zaggets page.

 

[whiteman]

So the vacuume job is a joke. Really a big waste of time considering how easy it is to pull the heads on this thing. Someone has definatley been in this thing very recently. Very new fel-pro gasket kit in it and all the bolts have fresh antisieze on them.

I could not get the passenger side head off tonight due to a broken 3/8drive 12pt 7/16 snap-on socket... only one I have so I will finish getting that side off tomorrow.

Oh yah... those heads are HEAVY, I had to anchor my legs to counter balance the wieght and I am 255lbs

 

[whiteman]

I have found the head torque specs

step 1 40lb ft
step 2 70lb ft
step 3 80lb ft
step 4 repeat step 3

valve lever post bolt 20lb ft
with timing mark 20* past TDC to prevent valve/piston contact

What about intake, I cannot seem to find the specs on that. Is the IP pump housing torque important?

I will be back to work on it in the morning...

Later

 

[OLDBULL8]

I have found the head torque specs

step 1 40lb ft
step 2 70lb ft
step 3 80lb ft
step 4 repeat step 3

valve lever post bolt 20lb ft
with timing mark 20* past TDC to prevent valve/piston contact

What about intake, I cannot seem to find the specs on that. Is the IP pump housing torque important?

I will be back to work on it in the morning...

Later

Here ya go on the intake manifold. At least the sequence you can read. I think the torque is 21-30 ft. lbs. Just snug all down before torquing.
DO NOT TAKE THE IP HOUSING OFF. NO NEED TO. You will loose your timing to the IP if you rotate the engine.

You must be registered for see images

 

[alienturtle]

i was going to pm you but you dont have it setup. i have a set of 8 beru plugs that came out of my motor. i didnt have any problems with them when i pulled them out. they have been sitting in my shed in a box for a couple months now. if you are interested let me know

 

[whiteman]

OLDBULL8
Thanks for the scan that is my next step right now. All is going well with the assembley process. I was a little disapointed my $150 fel-pro gasket kit did not come witha new valley pan/intake gasket.
This is the way i took my pump off
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zQ5UV-En_E
Looks simple to me. I have not turned the motor since the removal. I am Re-installing the IP before I rotate the engine to torque down the rocker arms.

alienturtel
Thanks, I did just buy two sets of Motorcraft GPs, and a new 60amp momentary switch.


Back too work...

 

[alienturtle]

sounds good let us know how it works out for you!

 

[icanfixall]

That truely is the wrong way to remove the injection pump. Its very easy to mess up and be one tooth off the the gear timing doing it that way but... Its after the fact now. Best of luck when you attempt to install the gear in the motor. Use a good quality rtv on the seal joint under this aluminum cover. It must be cleaned out of all the old rtv before it will create a good seal too...

 

[whiteman]

I got every thing back together Sat. Night but I need batteries for it so I have not been able to try and start it. I am picking up two batteries tonight and will be trying to fire it off tonight. I hope the pump is still timed right. If not what is the process for correcting this?

 

[icanfixall]

The process for timing the gears is to "find" number one tdc fireing.. That usually requires the passenger side valve cover to be removed. Then you watch the rocker arm action. After the intake valve closes you are on the compression stroke. Stop at the 0 degree timing mark on the crank and timing tab.... Then you need to know how many teeth are on the injection pump gear. Make a line up from the bottom timing mark all the way to the top tooth. Then count down both sides of the gear half the teeth it takes to amount to 1/2 of the total gear teeth.. Make a line across the gear. Now set the gear down in the motor so that both lines match up with the block cover. Hopefully you will feel the gear engaging the cam gear smoothly. That line must be level with the left and right side of the motor so the gear is timed correctly with the cam gear.... No real need to do any of this yet... You might have the gear timing correct... It either is or it isn't... I hope it's correct. Some members have used a small mirror and set in down in the front cover to watch the timing marks match up. Your trying to make the "Y" marks line up... Not the dots.... those are for the crank to cam marks....

 

[whiteman]

Well so far great news, I got home last night with two new batteries and installed them. Cracked my fuel lines at the injectors and filled my fuel filter up. Cranked it in intervals until I got fuel from the lines; connected the fuel lines and held down my personally installed 60amp momentary switch for 8sec fired up and purred like a kitten...err i mean lion

Let it warm up to operating temp, checked over for any leaks all looks good. She got me to work this morning and runs great.

This is the first motor I have ever disassembled down this far and put back together. I love working on this diesel

Thanks for all the help Guy's.