new speaker wires to doors?

[pybyr]

Not strictly diesel related, but since this is a goldmine of people with practical experience on this series truck-

My truck never had any radio of any sort- and I am planning an install, with speakers in the doors.

Since it never had speakers, there's no existing wire or rubber boot/ loom -just hard plastic filler plugs in the doors and the main body.

If I were doing this cheap and cheesy, I'd just poke holes in the plastic plugs and stuff some speaker zipcord through- but I don't really want to do it cheap and cheesy.

At the same time, I don't want to end up having this audio install become overcomplicated if I can help it.

Any tips 'n tricks anyone can suggest on simple but solid ways to do this?

thanks

 

[Optikalillushun]

go to the junkyard and get those boots, run the wires inside like the factory did. to do so u need to remove the kick panels and drill a hole on each side for it to pass through the cab into the boot.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Why does he need to drill any holes, he said he has plugs in both the cab and the doors - then on the inboard side of the cab walls there are several rather large holes already cut into the sheetmetal, so basically take you pick of those and run the wires through there and under the dash. Removal of kick panels will indeed be necessary, same with door panel removal - neither is a big deal tho. Actually funny you should bring that question up now, Pybyr, as I just installed CB antennas on both my door mirrors (not co-phased, left is CB and right is radio, factor radio antenna is removed) and that's exactly how I ran their co-ax cables - into the inside of the doors through rubber grommets, then from there to inside the cab through my factory rubber accordion boots. That last part was more annoying than anything else, but that's cause in addition to the speaker wires I also got power windows and locks, and on the passenger side wires for a power mirror as well, all of which makes for one rather bulky and unwilling to be finagled with harness - you will have none of that mess, only speaker wires, installing the accordion boots with just those inside should be a breeze.

 

[timothyr1014]

I agree with Arch...pretty straightforward and easy.

Personally I always add a disconnect plug inside the kick panel...keeps you from having to cut stuff up if you need to replace a door

 

[LCAM-01XA]

That's a good idea! Actually I just now realize how effed I am if I do need to replace my driver-side door as well, that's one helluvalong co-ax from the CB out to the mirror... Think in that case I'll just cut the factory cable connector off and replace the door eith the cable still attached to the main harness, then just fish it out the door to the mirror and install a new connector on the end - will lose an inch of length, shouldn't make much of a difference on a 10-ft cable.

 

[Optikalillushun]

drivers side is hard as hell to get to, the alm bracket and i think the parking brake assembly is in the way.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

That's what I thought at first too, if you look at it from the inside it's a darn nightmare. But, if you fish the wires in through the hole from the outside, it's very easy, they end up coming through above the e-brake pedal assembly and below the big aluminum bracket for the pedals and the column. Also remember he has no power windows or locks, so the big bulky harnesses and connectors that get in the way on both sides are not there in his truck...

 

[Optikalillushun]

well then, im going to re-do it. thanks for the tip.

 

[pybyr]

That's what I thought at first too, if you look at it from the inside it's a darn nightmare. But, if you fish the wires in through the hole from the outside, it's very easy, they end up coming through above the e-brake pedal assembly and below the big aluminum bracket for the pedals and the column. Also remember he has no power windows or locks, so the big bulky harnesses and connectors that get in the way on both sides are not there in his truck...

Thanks for the tip-

I don't know when I'd be able to get to a yard that'd have the OEM-type rubber bellows, so am beginning to think I may try to get ahold of some 2-conductor teflon insulated stranded wire (teflon since it is more abrasion resistant) and just do it with rubber grommets in the plastic plugs that go where the bellows would be.

What'll be the easiest way to temporarily dismount or "tilt out" the trim down by the parking brake pedal/ hood latch?

 

[h2odrx]

Thanks for the tip-

I don't know when I'd be able to get to a yard that'd have the OEM-type rubber bellows, so am beginning to think I may try to get ahold of some 2-conductor teflon insulated stranded wire (teflon since it is more abrasion resistant) and just do it with rubber grommets in the plastic plugs that go where the bellows would be.

What'll be the easiest way to temporarily dismount or "tilt out" the trim down by the parking brake pedal/ hood latch?

I've got 2 boots for ya out the parts truck, how does $20 bucks sound? Send me a pm with your info......

 

[LCAM-01XA]

well then, im going to re-do it. thanks for the tip.

Honestly, probably not worth your time - doing any wiring on these trucks is rather aggravating, if what you have now works good it may not be a bad idea to just leave it be. Your call tho, you know what you did the first time around

What'll be the easiest way to temporarily dismount or "tilt out" the trim down by the parking brake pedal/ hood latch?

remove the plastic trim piece that runs along the rocker panel, or at least loosen its front two bolts so you can lift it some. The entire trim panel that runs from dash-level down and covers the E-brake assembly is held in by two hidden Christmas-tree pins on its narrow side, and there is another large X-mas-tree pin that holds the front of the panel and is inserted in from the pedals - find the large pin and pull it out (it's between the hood latch lever and the firewall), then sitting on the rocker panel next to the seat (basically where you normally step to get in the cab) grab the trim piece and pull it straight towards you, it will resist some but eventually the hidden x-mas-tree pins will let go of the sheetmetal (or will break, in which case you can buy new ones at the parts store) and the panel will come out. Under it there is this noise insulation piece that looks like rubber with some foam stuff bonded to it, that foam stuff will probably crumble to pieces but no worries (just vacuum it out else it will get all over your carpet) - pull that rubber piece away towards the pedals and now you have decent access to the area where the plastic plug is on the outboard side of the cab wall.

I've got 2 boots for ya out the parts truck, how does $20 bucks sound? Send me a pm with your info......

Which model year is your parts truck? Must be an '87-91 for direct fit in his '89, when the new front doors came about in '92 Ford switched to new rubber bellows with larger diameter so if one wants to install those '92-up bellows in a bricknose truck they need to cut the opening in their doors larger. I found all this when I installed a '94 door on my bricknose, my factory bellows were too small in diameter and just slid right through the '94 door opening - I ended up cutting off the piece of the old door that the bellows latches into, and then riveting it over the opening in the new door...

 

[h2odrx]

Which model year is your parts truck? Must be an '87-91 for direct fit in his '89, when the new front doors came about in '92 Ford switched to new rubber bellows with larger diameter so if one wants to install those '92-up bellows in a bricknose truck they need to cut the opening in their doors larger. I found all this when I installed a '94 door on my bricknose, my factory bellows were too small in diameter and just slid right through the '94 door opening - I ended up cutting off the piece of the old door that the bellows latches into, and then riveting it over the opening in the new door...

1988!

 

[h2odrx]

hey just got these off the truck, let me see if I can find the camera....
They look great...