New K&N filter for big trucks

[The Warden]

My other issue with those filters is that, at least under my hood, space is at a premium...as much as I would like a BHAF, I simply can't visualize where one would go after all's said and done (ESPECIALLY with intercooler piping to deal with). Others may have better luck, but I'll probably just have to stick with the filter meant to go with my turbo kit, along with a Hypermax cowl induction setup...

 

[snicklas]

... If you want more flow and good filtration and a long lasting filter look into the donaldson powercore filters. They hold tons of dirt before they plug up. Way more than any K&N or any other aftermarket filter.

The air filter is the most important filter on any engine.

I have to agree with the Donaldson Powercore Filters. The Powercore filter is the OEM filter for the 6.0PSD. These are good upto 400hp for air flow. They will also hold 1600 grams of particulates (which is just over 3.5 lbs) before they need changed. These will last along time in lower dust enviroments. The only bad thing is they are somewhat difficult to change, but you do not have to deal with them very often, at least on the 6.0 application so it is not a big deal. I am not 100% sure, but mine may be the factory filter, and at 100k miles I am showing almost no indication on the filterminder. I wonder if the stock 6.0 filter and mount (which is also the drivers side battery tray) may be able to be adapted for the older trucks? The filter is mounted between the battery and the radiator, in the "open space" above the framerail. So if it would replace the factory battery tray, it may not take much work to adapt it over. I could take a few pics and post them up if someone would like.

 

[FordGuy100]

I would definatly rig a box with somethig feeding it from the cowl or something. Stock filter housing gets real hot.

You can buy a replacement 6637 for about 35$ shipped online.

 

[Brianedwardss]

I'm curious too about these new K&N's. Our trucks n/a don't pull in enough air to need anything more than the stock paper filter tho. I've always wondered why the turbo filters were smaller than the n/a filters....

 

[RLDSL]

I've always wondered why the turbo filters were smaller than the n/a filters....

That's an optical illusion . I measured teh surface area of a stock air filter and then the surface area of an ATS planar ( flat ) air filter and the flat air filter has quite a bit more surface area. To look at the things though, you would think that they were way smaller.

 

[Brianedwardss]

That makes sense, I guess you'd call that engineering

 

[trackspeeder]

NAPA Filters

Part Number: FIL 6637

Price: $58.49 ea



Features & Benefits NAPA Gold Air Filters Last 40% Longer And Holds 53% More Dirt Than Other Leading Competitive Brands.

Warranty NAPA Filters are Covered by a Comprehensive Limited Product Warranty. NAPA Filters May Pay the Reasonable Cost for Parts & Labor to Repair any System Damaged by NAPA Filters Due to a Defect in Design or Material.

Attributes Air Filter Height (Inches) : 12.38
Air Filter Style : Air Filter
Air Filter Bottom I.D. (Inches) : 4
Air Filter Bottom I.D. (mm) : 101.60mm
Air Filter Bottom O.D. (Inches) : 8.5
Air Filter Bottom O.D. (mm) : 215.90mm
Air Filter Height (mm) : 314.45mm
Air Filter Top I.D. (Inches) : Closed
Air Filter Top I.D. (mm) : Closed
Air Filter Top O.D. (Inches) : 8.5
Air Filter Top O.D. (mm) : 215.90mm


Material Safety Data Sheet There is no MSDS for this item


I don't know about $59 for a replacement filter and drawing in engine bay heat though.

Most I have ever paid for the 6637 filter is $35. bucks. You have to shop around for this part. If you have a good parts dealer they should discount it for you.

 

[Dave7.3]

My other issue with those filters is that, at least under my hood, space is at a premium...as much as I would like a BHAF, I simply can't visualize where one would go after all's said and done (ESPECIALLY with intercooler piping to deal with). Others may have better luck, but I'll probably just have to stick with the filter meant to go with my turbo kit, along with a Hypermax cowl induction setup...

Simple, MAKE room!

The benefits are worth it, just need to do some relocation and use some ingenuity. Be it moving the coolant/washer bottles or relocate batteries, it can be done.

 

[sassyrel]

Correct. It has been proven time and time again that they let dirt in and dust engines to death. it is even worse on a forced fed engine

yah,,,,like less than 10,000 miles...and darrin may be able to tell you how nice it ran at the gtg we were at!!!

 

[sassyrel]

I'm curious too about these new K&N's. Our trucks n/a don't pull in enough air to need anything more than the stock paper filter tho. I've always wondered why the turbo filters were smaller than the n/a filters....

WRONG!!!! a diesel--aint a gas--there is NO butterfly in the intake--to control air flow--think of the engine being wide open all the time!! and it only increases more with rpm--think about it!!!!

 

[The Warden]

Simple, MAKE room!

The benefits are worth it, just need to do some relocation and use some ingenuity. Be it moving the coolant/washer bottles or relocate batteries, it can be done.

About the only way I could make room would be to eliminate the coolant and washer bottles or relocate them outside of the engine compartment, or relocate the batteries outside the engine compartment. I'm not eliminating either one, and considering how hot the air gets in the engine compartment (reference this thread), I'm not sure how much benefit there would really be to run that filter as compared to a ram-air or cowl-induction system. It'd be nice if someone wanted to go through the trouble of testing both setups on the same truck...although, given that a ram-air setup is at its best when the truck's moving, you couldn't verify on a dyno. You'd have to run the truck up the same hill with the same loads with both setups, at approximately the same time (to get as close as possible to eliminating environmental differences) and speed, and measure EGT's. It'd be interesting to see the results...

 

[RLDSL]

About the only way I could make room would be to eliminate the coolant and washer bottles or relocate them outside of the engine compartment, or relocate the batteries outside the engine compartment. I'm not eliminating either one, and considering how hot the air gets in the engine compartment (reference this thread), I'm not sure how much benefit there would really be to run that filter as compared to a ram-air or cowl-induction system. It'd be nice if someone wanted to go through the trouble of testing both setups on the same truck...although, given that a ram-air setup is at its best when the truck's moving, you couldn't verify on a dyno. You'd have to run the truck up the same hill with the same loads with both setups, at approximately the same time (to get as close as possible to eliminating environmental differences) and speed, and measure EGT's. It'd be interesting to see the results...

THat's true, to get the full benefit of a cowl induction on a dyno you would need to get a couple of those huge shop fans and have them running across the hood to simulate road speed air flow across the hood to get teh high pressure area built up against the windshield where the cowl induction would do it's stuff otherwise on a dyno one of those pod thingys has an unfair advantage as it is operating in a non real world situation.

 

[Brianedwardss]

WRONG!!!! a diesel--aint a gas--there is NO butterfly in the intake--to control air flow--think of the engine being wide open all the time!! and it only increases more with rpm--think about it!!!!

I'm not gonna get into it. I work on Diesel Locomotives for a living, 4400 Horsepower diesel engines, both 2 and 4 stroke. Our trucks wide open only turn 3400 rpms (DYoung is the exception). Our N/A trucks don't use as much air as you would think. Yes it's a diesel, that's obvious. Now think of a 460 or 454 wide open at 5,000 rpms, more cubic inches and higher rpms, with butterfly valve all the way open. That equals more air, not a huge amount more, but more. Turbos are a whole different story but I was referring to N/A, as that is what I own and drive. The stock filter in our n/a trucks flows plenty. It flows enough that we can focus on the Quality of the air coming in (i.e. temperature, cleanliness, etc), rather than the Quantity (CFM) because our filter is already sufficient in size for our CFM requirements.

I run the Motorcraft paper filter that has the foam wrap around it. It looks restrictive as hell but it filters the best of any filter for the price. I have a K&N I bought new last year for a stock n/a IDI. I did a test and ran the 2.5 mile 8% hill near my place. The top 500 feet is 10%. I ran the Paper filter at WOT, and hit the top at 52 mph empty truck. I went back to the bottom, put in the K&N and ran it. 52 MPH was all it would do! I expected atleast 53 mph but I couldn't get past 52. It was also much louder in the cab with K&N.

Moral of the story; with an N/A truck, focus on quality, not quantity because the quantity is already there.