New here, new 89 f350.

[Ngarover]

Hi, new here. Just bought an 89 f350 crew cab to pull a car 700 miles. Seems like a good truck.

The issue I'm having is starting. When you first start the truck you need to turn it over for a good 10 to 15 seconds 3 or 4 times before it fires. Smokes like all get out, but once it warms up, does not smoke.

So, I tested all the glow plugs. Using an ohm meter. They all seem fine. I kind of tested the relay. This is the part I'm not all that clear on. I put my meter to ground, and to the post that had positive coming to it but no juice. Then I turned on the key, and the meter read voltage, 3 volts then 5 then 9 then 11.99 then finally 12... This took about 5 seconds to reach the 12. The relay was hard clicking the whole time.

I'm guessing its bad? I picked up a replacement tonight and will put it in in the morning to see. Unless someone dissagrees with this before I install the new one and I can return it. Damn expensive little relay at 115 buck from O rielys...

Looks like it's been an issue for a while with this truck as I found an empty can of ether sitting between the front seats and no air filter in the cleaner...

As long as the truck can pull this car and get me home I'm fine with it. Everything after that is bonus.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

First of all welcome to the forum. Congrats on the new truck

a much easier way to test the plugs is to use a test light. hook the light leed to the neg post on the bat, then take the connector off the plugs, touch the test light to the top of the plug, if it lights it is good, no light=bad plug.

I take it your WTS light only stays on for ~5 sec? if so then you have at least on bad plug.

My truck had 4 bad plugs and it was a pita to start in the winter with no block heater. got new plugs and it fired right off.

Only get Motorcraft/Beru plugs. part #ZD9. You can get them from rock auto for $10/plug.

what color smoke on start up? Could also be injectors. How many miles on the current fuel system?

 

[sle2115]

First of all welcome to the forum. Congrats on the new truck

a much easier way to test the plugs is to use a test light. hook the light leed to the neg post on the bat, then take the connector off the plugs, touch the test light to the top of the plug, if it lights it is good, no light=bad plug.

I take it your WTS light only stays on for ~5 sec? if so then you have at least on bad plug.

My truck had 4 bad plugs and it was a pita to start in the winter with no block heater. got new plugs and it fired right off.

Only get Motorcraft/Beru plugs. part #ZD9. You can get them from rock auto for $10/plug.

what color smoke on start up? Could also be injectors. How many miles on the current fuel system?

I think you meant positive post. The test light will show continuity through the glow plug to ground if the glow plug is good (internal coil intact) but you have to source power from the battery.

 

[Ngarover]

Unknown mileage, PO said about 250 but who knows, could be 450... PO didn't know much about the truck... Tried to claim it was because the trucks oil was getting old and needed to be changed for it being so hard to start. Error... Oh well, a 900 buck truck is a 900 buck truck, and I'll always get my money out of it if I scrap it so no worries there.

But wouldn't you put the test lead on the positive of the battery and then negative to the glow plug to see if it lights up? Your way seems like you would have negative negative.

Spent the last couple days reading on here before this first post. I play with older Mercedes diesels normally ( have 4 of them) but have to learn this 7.3 engine from scratch.

Smoke on startup is misty blue and heavy... But more of a smoke you would see from the gp not working at all. Ill fire it up in the morning and shoot a video of it before it toss on this new gp relay.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

Ya my bad, pos post.

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the best idi forum. Many questions to be asked before any real answers. Is the smoke white when it finally starts. Look at the injectors. Are any of them wet looking at the tops. Can you count how many rpm the starter is turning over the engine when trying tostart it. Sounds to me like you have an air in the fuel problem. That would cause lots of cranking and white smoke when it starts. Air in the fuel has lots of reasons. A low tank of fuel with a broken off fuel pickup in the tanks... Usually this happens at 1/4 tank. The fuel pickup breaks off and you can't pull the last 1/4 tank of fuel out. To prove this issue if the truck sounds like its running out of fuel and it only takes around 12 gallons to completely fill the tank.. you have a broken pickup in that tank. A bad mechanical lift pump can leak fuel back down to the tank too. It draws the fuel out of the filter.then you try to start it. It fires up and dies... Lots of cranking to bleed the air before it finally starts. The faster these engines crank over the hotter the compressed air is in the cylinders. Thats how diesel ignites. So think about how fast the engine is cranking. For this you need a gear reduction starter... Good cables and clean terminals too. Always replace both batteries at the same time. Otherwise a particially used up battery will draw down a new battery toits level of charge. Think of this like two water cans connected.Have on full and the other halffull. See how they both level out the same... A new and used battery works the same way... Enjoy the ride. There is plenty of help here 24 hours every day... About the missing air filter.... That tells many the engine was not taken care of. Hopefully its not a ruined engine...

 

[Ngarover]

One of the other issue I have is the fuel guage.

The rear tank is empty when the fuel gauge reads 1/4 and the front tanks empty when it reads 3/4

Could this be a grounding issue?

 

[Ngarover]

Welcome to the best idi forum. Many questions to be asked before any real answers. Is the smoke white when it finally starts. Look at the injectors. Are any of them wet looking at the tops. Can you count how many rpm the starter is turning over the engine when trying tostart it. Sounds to me like you have an air in the fuel problem. That would cause lots of cranking and white smoke when it starts. Air in the fuel has lots of reasons. A low tank of fuel with a broken off fuel pickup in the tanks... Usually this happens at 1/4 tank. The fuel pickup breaks off and you can't pull the last 1/4 tank of fuel out. To prove this issue if the truck sounds like its running out of fuel and it only takes around 12 gallons to completely fill the tank.. you have a broken pickup in that tank. A bad mechanical lift pump can leak fuel back down to the tank too. It draws the fuel out of the filter.then you try to start it. It fires up and dies... Lots of cranking to bleed the air before it finally starts. The faster these engines crank over the hotter the compressed air is in the cylinders. Thats how diesel ignites. So think about how fast the engine is cranking. For this you need a gear reduction starter... Good cables and clean terminals too. Always replace both batteries at the same time. Otherwise a particially used up battery will draw down a new battery toits level of charge. Think of this like two water cans connected.Have on full and the other halffull. See how they both level out the same... A new and used battery works the same way... Enjoy the ride. There is plenty of help here 24 hours every day... About the missing air filter.... That tells many the engine was not taken care of. Hopefully its not a ruined engine...

HMM... that pickup is a great idea, I would not have thought of that. I topped off the tank when I go it and it took about 12 gallons.... and once in a while it does feel like it's spuddering a little...

There's a guy parting out 4 of these down the road from me, 2 are down to the frame, so I can grab his pickups easy. looking at it, it looks like it would be easier to remove the bed to fix that issue than trying to drop the tank...

AS to the smoke... best to let me start it and do the video...

And to the mechanical pump... can I put an electric inline? if so, where? I happen to have one sitting here.

First thing I did when I got the truck was clean the engine... (Oven cleaner) Cause I hate working on a dirty engine and it helps me see where leaks are. But the injectors are all dry.

One thing I notice, is that the truck is hard to start HOT.... Meaning, if I shut it off and it sits for a bit, like 30-40 minutes, it's as hard or harder to start than cold. In fact, I drove it over and had some used tires put on... when I went to leave, it would not start... ran down both batteries trying. had to get a jump to finally get the truck to start.

You are correct about the batteries, one is older than the other, both 1000's but you can tell one is older. I have a couple new 900's sitting here I could put in...

 

[icanfixall]

The issue you spoke to about hard starting after its warm is usually a heat soak problem with the injection pump. Next time it happens pour some cool but not ice cold water on the injection pump body were the lines attach. The internal clearances are worn so the pump can't make enough fuel pressure to pop the injectors open. If that causes the engine to start try adding a quart of motor oil to the fuel tank. That may increase the fuel viscosity enough to start better... Its only a bad aid so plan on replacing the injection pump.... And get an air filter fast... No sense adding more dirt to the engine cylinders...

 

[typ4]

quote" Oh well, a 900 buck truck is a 900 buck truck, and I'll always get my money out of it if I scrap it so no worries there."



I really hate statements like that. Just sayin.

 

[Ngarover]

quote" Oh well, a 900 buck truck is a 900 buck truck, and I'll always get my money out of it if I scrap it so no worries there."



I really hate statements like that. Just sayin.

It just the times. This truck was literally bought to make this single trip. After this trip I'll keep it around to do odds and ends, but I may only get used a couple times a month if that. I'm not going to toss cash at something that I can't get at least an equal return from.

The truck might also be the test bed for me as far as running a wmo/*** mixture since I have about 500 gallons of it currently and another 200 a month free.

That said, I do maintain my stuff. I bought an air filter to put back in, I have a set of new valve cover gaskets to fix the leaky ones today. But ultimately the trucks going to end up being scrapped. Unfortunately it's worth more that way. With the 4 sitting near me being parted right now, mine should have a longer life due to me being able to obtain some dirt cheap replacement parts, but reality is reality.

Here's a picture of it from the PO...

I've already removed the running boards, replaced the grill with a like new stock and today I'm adding one of those fiberglass cab visors. (parts from the other 4) Total cost 20 bucks. He has a full set of aluminum running boards for 40 bucks, but honestly I like it without them. I may just grab them cause the scrap value of them is equal to what he's asking so no loss there.

If the guides are worn in the IP causing the hard start issue hot, I might be able to secure one of his IP's But he normally only sells a complete running engine. I'll have to see if one of the 4 engines is DOA. If so I'll grab it, are there kits to allow me to fix one? I need to do a little more research here on that.

BTW, this is an amazing forum with a wealth of great information and a ton of help.

 

[Ngarover]

Finished installing the new glow plug relay, turns out I left the key on last night and killed the batteries... ya, Im an idiot. So they are charging now. Put in the air filter, straitened the front bumper, painted the new visor to match now, just waiting till those batteries are ready so I can test it.

One thing I did already notice was the glow light stayed on for a good 20 seconds before going out, Even with the drained batteries. Before it was only on maybe 3-5 seconds.

Going to shoot a short video of it starting cold once it ready to try.

 

[Ngarover]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvC10swsvig

 

[Fordsandguns]

That truck is worth more than $900. That's what I gave for mine and it's beat to hell in comparison.
I realize that it's your truck and you can do what you want with it, but I think you're crazy to scrap it when you're through with it. Just because it's easier and a quicker return on the $900 you paid for it.
There are those of us here that prefer these older trucks for lots of reasons and we hate to see a good truck or good parts crushed and sent to china.

 

[Ngarover]

That truck is worth more than $900. That's what I gave for mine and it's beat to hell in comparison.
I realize that it's your truck and you can do what you want with it, but I think you're crazy to scrap it when you're through with it. Just because it's easier and a quicker return on the $900 you paid for it.
There are those of us here that prefer these older trucks for lots of reasons and we hate to see a good truck or good parts crushed and sent to china.

No no... your miss understanding me. I'll keep the truck running and use it. I'm not going to go all bat crazy and start sinking any real money in it, but I'll keep it going as long as the trans etc holds up.

I know exactly where your coming from being into the older mercedes. So many of the 300D's are being scrapped right now cause you can part them and make an easy 2k plus another 500 for the stripped body when your done. BUT, you can't hardly sell one whole for a grand....

Thats fine for me, as each one gone makes mine worth that much more over time...

When I'm done with it it will be a scrap truck. But I do need it to pickup and haul the wmo/*** I'm getting, haul building supplies etc. Hell, I've owned the truck 3 days and had 2 cash offers for it in the 2k range already. Not for sale. I understand it's worth more than the 900 I paid for it and I would be hard pressed to find something similar that ran as good for 2k. Especially a diesel.

Got that fiberglass cab sunshade installed and it looks good.

This is my first experience with a ford diesel, who knows, I might like it...

Here are some other pictures after working on it a little today. That's the 300D I'm pulling to it's new home 700 miles tomorrow with it.

If anyone happens to have a good drivers seat, it needs one. the rest of the interior is rip/wear free.