New guy. need some help. 7.3 idi turbo vid inside. thanks

[IDI_Turbo]

got a new fuel filter today, and I would say it seemed to cut the blue smoke on the freeway in half. still not gone but much better. Its a little different style seems more failproof.

I also did some clear line tests to look for bubbles. did one from the IP to the return lines. no bubbles at all. did one from the filter to the other end of return lines. got a few bubbles at first but then non at all. i think it just got air in when I switched lines. I also did one after the part were the two lines from front and rear meet and turn to one.
here is a vid I took. seems theres not much air getting in before the pump or on the returns. so maybe it sucking it in at some injectors? hmm



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjYgfwuhADA&feature=youtu.be

 

[IDI_Turbo]

From IP to return lines

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[79jasper]

Try between the lift pump and filter, also between filter and injector pump.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[IDI_Turbo]

Try between the lift pump and filter, also between filter and injector pump.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

ok. I wanted to try those, but its the hard line and i think it is alittle bigger than the hose i had.
also you hear that knocking?

 

[79jasper]

Try getting a pressure/vacuum line to tee into some places.
Imo, sounded like the filter had a vacuum on it when you opened the drain.
And I'm not seeing it anywhere, have you changed the lift pump? Though they usually either work or they don't, it could be weak.
Now the clear line down on the frame, was that return or feed?
If it was feed, I would say you shouldn't be getting any air like that.
They way you described the lines down there sounds wacky. Should be the selector valve. I would try bypassing it. Just run from one tank.
Try seeing if the injector pump has a reman tag and get what it says. It's also possible that you may just need a good set of injectors. When it starts knocking, loosen one injector line at a time and see if it goes away. If so, that's a bad injector.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[IDI_Turbo]

Try getting a pressure/vacuum line to tee into some places.
Imo, sounded like the filter had a vacuum on it when you opened the drain.
And I'm not seeing it anywhere, have you changed the lift pump? Though they usually either work or they don't, it could be weak.
Now the clear line down on the frame, was that return or feed?
If it was feed, I would say you shouldn't be getting any air like that.
They way you described the lines down there sounds wacky. Should be the selector valve. I would try bypassing it. Just run from one tank.
Try seeing if the injector pump has a reman tag and get what it says. It's also possible that you may just need a good set of injectors. When it starts knocking, loosen one injector line at a time and see if it goes away. If so, that's a bad injector.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

cool thanks.
I havent changed the lift pump.
the clear line on the frame, was the feed line, right after the selector valve im assuming that thing is. ill bypass it and see how it works.
Ill check the IP for a tag too. also the knock im talking about only happens for a second when its being revved, or taking off.

 

[IDI_Turbo]

I also noticed that one of the injectors had this brass fitting thing on it. anyone know what this is?

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[IDI_Turbo]

I also noticed that one of the injectors had this brass fitting thing on it. anyone know what this is?

You must be registered for see images attach

also the fuel on this injector is from opening the shrader valve while it was running

 

[snicklas]

Yes that is the Rotunda Timing adapter the dealer would have used when the trucks were new and in a dealer shop. It is used to detect the pulses in the fuel line to translate into an electrical signal for the meter to read.

 

[icanfixall]

With the stock mechanical fuel pump, it will pulse. An electric pump may give a more steady stream. The last truck that I know 100% had a mechanical pump, it would pulse from the schrader valve.

The stock mechanical pump is a diaphragm pump, that runs off a lobe on the cam. With the cam turning at twice the speed of the crank, and there is only 1 "bump" on the cam lobe. So at 700 RPM at idle, the pump would pulse 1400 times.

The cam turns hlf the rpm of the crank. So does the injection pump gear. both the injection pump gear and the cam gear are twice the size of the crank gear. So for every 1 turn of the crank those other gears turns 1/2 of that. Its how all engines rotate.

 

[snicklas]

Sorry, it was a bit late when I made that post, and wasn't thinking correctly... I stand corrected.......

I also fixed the original post.

 

[icanfixall]

Sorry, it was a bit late when I made that post, and wasn't thinking correctly... I stand corrected.......

I also fixed the original post.

We are correcting what is not exactly correct. This is a friendly forum so no name calling if something gets on here thats less than correct. I too have made misquotes to a few things in my 21,000 plus posts. I'm not perfect either nor am I a god. Just a simpleton driving what I like and helping others.

 

[Agnem]

I'm surprised nobody asked you how many miles are on this fuel system. 100,000 miles is a ballpark average as to how long you should expect a pump and injectors to last. If you believe the motor may have this or more on these components, you will end up wasting a lot of time and money experimenting with worn out stuff. It's a good idea of course to validate the rest of the fuel system (removing air intrusions and pickup problems), but getting some fresh components will take a lot of the pain away I'm certain.

 

[lindstromjd]

I'm surprised nobody asked you how many miles are on this fuel system. 100,000 miles is a ballpark average as to how long you should expect a pump and injectors to last. If you believe the motor may have this or more on these components, you will end up wasting a lot of time and money experimenting with worn out stuff. It's a good idea of course to validate the rest of the fuel system (removing air intrusions and pickup problems), but getting some fresh components will take a lot of the pain away I'm certain.

Or, you could just read Post #1 where he mentioned that the IP is supposed to be new according to the previous owner, and Post #8 where he says the injectors were supposed to have been replaced at the same time as the IP. That's why I suggested he might have badly "rebuilt" parts in there. There's just something not quite right about knocking the rest of us when we actually DID cover that and you didn't see it... just sayin...

I'm almost more surprised that you didn't post something along the lines of how threads like this "drive you crazy" because people do things out of your order on how to fix something. And maybe I'm in a bad mood tonight, and I'll regret going off on people in the morning. But right now, I'll just go ahead and say it.