New fuel pump

Dski1991

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Hey guys,

I order a new fuel injector pump and install it. I had no problems, I drove around the block a couple of times( est 1 mile) and the truck just dies on me.

I checked over everything and I’m not getting any fuel to the injectors. I have not tested the solenoids yet. Would there be anything else that would cause this issue?

I have an electric fuel pump to the injector pump and I’m getting plenty of fuel from the electric pump but nothing to the injectors.

Thanks in advance,

Devin
 

hesutton

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Sounds like the fuel shutoff solenoid on the IP. Does it have power? If so, is it working? Should hear it click with 12v applied.

Heath
 

franklin2

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What 3 solenoids are you talking about? Besides the fuel shut-off solenoid inside the pump, I didn't know there were any others besides the starter solenoid(relay) and the glowplug solenoid(relay). I guess you could call the fast idle actuator on the throttle a solenoid.
 

hesutton

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Is there power coming from the harness to the FSS when you have the ignition on? Easy to check. Turn on the ignition. Go under the hood and disconnect the plug from the FSS. It should click.

Heath
 

IDIBRONCO

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What 3 solenoids are you talking about? Besides the fuel shut-off solenoid inside the pump, I didn't know there were any others besides the starter solenoid(relay) and the glowplug solenoid(relay). I guess you could call the fast idle actuator on the throttle a solenoid.
The third one would probably be the timing advance.
 

Farmer Rock

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What symptoms made you change the IP in the first place? Didn't you go through two IPs last winter?
Pull the top cover of the IP and make sure the metering valve isn't sticking at all. I had that happen once, and it would die after only 5 minutes of idling and turned out to be the metering valve sticking.
What's the condition of your fuel filter?
Also, just for kicks, have you tried running a constant 12v jumper wire to the fss? It may loose 12v at some point, causing this. My 88 had a whole mess of wiring that would short out after 5-10 minutes running but start up immediately. Drove me crazy for awhile......


Rock
 

Dski1991

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What symptoms made you change the IP in the first place? Didn't you go through two IPs last winter?
Pull the top cover of the IP and make sure the metering valve isn't sticking at all. I had that happen once, and it would die after only 5 minutes of idling and turned out to be the metering valve sticking.
What's the condition of your fuel filter?
Also, just for kicks, have you tried running a constant 12v jumper wire to the fss? It may loose 12v at some point, causing this. My 88 had a whole mess of wiring that would short out after 5-10 minutes running but start up immediately. Drove me crazy for awhile......


Rock
I did, I got the pump from a company in Florida and it was trash! I couldn’t even adjust the timing on it. I sent that back and kept the original in. The symptoms were constant fuel leak and it was getting bad that it was leaking after driving and fumes getting into the cab while I am driving.

I did test the pump with 12V and I was getting clicks on all points.

I will have to see the metering valve when I take this pump off. I can’t trust this company that sent me two pump, 1st pump was broken on arrival and 2nd pump is where we are at now. I lost all faith in them.
 

Farmer Rock

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I did test the pump with 12V and I was getting clicks on all points.
That may be so, but that doesn't mean it is getting "constant" 12v.
Like I said, it may have a short or something that kills the power randomly when running. I went through that on my 88, it's weird, but it was a short in the harness. It would always stall out after a few minutes but start right up again and repeat.
I'm sorry to hear of the bad luck on another IP after that bad rebuild.


Rock
 

Cubey

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That may be so, but that doesn't mean it is getting "constant" 12v.
Like I said, it may have a short or something that kills the power randomly when running. I went through that on my 88, it's weird, but it was a short in the harness. It would always stall out after a few minutes but start right up again and repeat.
I'm sorry to hear of the bad luck on another IP after that bad rebuild.


Rock

At least that's an easy thing to test, run a temporary wire from the battery to a fuse and a manual switch for the FSS and try driving with it that way.
 

Dski1991

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Here is the problem! Pretty sad that it only lasted a good 10 mins of driving/ idling.
 

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