New engine installed-couple questions...

[zigg]

I've managed to drop in my newly rebuilt 7.0 engine finally.(Bored out 6.9) I'm working on getting it all together...

The truck was originally a factory turbo(wastegated ATS) 7.3, on a E4OD, and now I've put in the 6.9 that was originally on a t-19. I'm not sure, but I may be the first to do this swap?! (I don't believe any 6.9's were mated to the E4OD.

So,
I'm not planning on putting the turbo on. I don't want a wastegated model.(planning on getting a Hypermax later if all goes well with the truck) So, the pump from the 7.3 is probably turned up for the turbo, although the truck never had a pyro in it. I want to get the engine running, but haven't got a pyro yet.

So, anyone have the ATS instructions that tell you how much to turn up the pump when you add a turbo to a stock n/a engine so I can find out how much to turn it back down, before starting it up, so I don't melt my new engine!! I'm not going to drive it hard for a while, till but even during the break in, ya gotta stand on it a few times...

Also, Anyone know if a stock "y" pipe for a 6.9 with t-19 would fit on a
E4OD, or is there some kind of clearance issue, and the "y" pipe is different between the t-19 and/or E4OD?

Since I'm on the subject, I also noticed that the 7.3 injection pump has the pulse adapter unit on the #1 injector. Since the adapter is about 3/4" long, I'm assuming that it has to go on the 6.9 as well, as high pressure line for that cylinder must therefore be 3/4" shorter than all the rest, and in order to remove the pulse adapter, I'd have to find a shorter line like one off a 6.9 pump!

I'm getting the plumbing together to get my pre-luber running, so that I can pressurize all the oil passages before the first time I hit that starter. That way all my lifters bearings etc will be well oiled before first start up, and always and forever after that. I'm going to plumb it into the filter header on the oil cooler so that it goes through the filter before going into the engine.

Today: Rad, powersteering pump, rockers, valve covers, tranny/engine dipsticks, water temp sensors and plugs, high idle sensor, heater fittings, serp belt tensioner and brackets for vacumn pump/alternater/fuel filter header brackets, oil pressure sensor lines and gauge, and starter.

Should be running soon.

Zigg

 

[Agnem]

Zigg, putting a pyro on would make a lot more sense to me than trying to turn the pump down. Besides, at this point in the game, you don't know what's been done to that pump. Y pipes are all the same for F series as far as I know. Yes, the #1 line has to be from a 6.9, or you have to use the pulse adapter.

 

[zigg]

Zigg, putting a pyro on would make a lot more sense to me than trying to turn the pump down. Besides, at this point in the game, you don't know what's been done to that pump.

Mel

Thanks bud, of course as usual you're right. I suppose I could order the pyro and by the time it gets here I might just be about ready to fire the thing up anyway.

I've still got quite a few things to do before I can turn the key, and the weather around here usually takes a pretty big turn for the worse within the next week or two, so it might be a while yet.

Zigg

 

[akoldnav]

Zig, why do you not want a non-wastegated turbo. I am just curious. I have had both types and I can't see much difference. I have been reading your posts here and before at the other site. You always have excellent reasoning, so, inquiring minds want to know.

Thanks

akoldnav (hweaver on the other place)

 

[Agnem]

Well if you don't see much difference, then the simplicity of a non-wastegated version makes sense eh? Lower EGT's would be the traditional answer.

 

[zigg]

Well if you don't see much difference, then the simplicity of a non-wastegated version makes sense eh? Lower EGT's would be the traditional answer.

What Mel says is true. Simplicity, that's one thing I like about our particular trucks.

The other major reason, is that everything I've read and heard suggests that the wastegated versions are designed to get boost right off the line, and to do that they size the spool smaller, and the result is a compromise. You do get boost earlier, but at the cost of higher backpressure at higher rpm's, and thus compromise in efficiency and thus fuel economy at hwy speeds.

The non-wastegated versions produce less boost off the line, and tend to ramp up the boost as you give it more fuel at higher rpm's. So, at a cost of lack of boost off the line, you tend to get much more efficiency at hwy speeds, and lower backpressure, and thus better fuel economy.

My reasoning for the turbo is to get efficiency, and economy, on the hwy. I have a very soft foot off the line anyways, so boost out of the hole means nothing to me. I'd also like to do away with the smoke, and the power to me is just a side bonus. I'm actually quite happy with my present 6.9 with lpg in terms of how much power I get, I'm just not happy with looking back and seeing a cloud behind me, and knowing that all that smoke is wasted fuel.

Anyway, I'm still having new engine anxiety, and before I lay out more cash(the boss is even now upset about the little costs) I'd like to just get this engine started and then see how it runs, and make sure I don't have water in oil that kind of thing.
The way my schedule is, it'll probably be a month before I can actually turn the key.

Zigg

 

[akoldnav]

Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense to me. One thing I would like to add on edit is that my F250 that had the old style banks without the wastegate still smoked on acceleration and some on steep hills. It would loose boost if the engine went to lugging at all. My two trucks with the sidewinders smoke very little. Suprisingly, the non wastegated turbo also produced boost almost immediately on acceleration.

Good luck on getting it all together and working just how you want it to.

akoldnav

 

[Agnem]

I'd have to put the smoke in the "plus" column for the non-wastegated. Still nice to be able to do an Alco simulation off the line, and run clear for the cruise.

 

[dsblack]

ATS factory has you adjust to match a smoke plate sample that they send you. Kind of strange, but on my rig it was only about 1/2 a turn. If that helps.

 

[zigg]

ATS factory has you adjust to match a smoke plate sample that they send you. Kind of strange, but on my rig it was only about 1/2 a turn. If that helps.

I didn't think it was gonna be much because If memory serves, this is a 93 1/2, and the factory turbo's were only rated about 10hp more than the n/a of those years. This particular truck didn't come with any kind of pyro, so I'm assuming the settings are such that you shouldn't be able to overheat the thing. That's assuming that you're running the turbo though. Without the turbo, you might be able to get a bit more heat up.

What I'm probably going to do is to swap exhausts from my current extended cab to the crew. It has a pyro in it. I'll then wire in my pre-luber and a decent oil gauge, get the thing running, and then adjust the pump so I can't hurt it much, and then decide what/where I'm going to go from there in terms of a turbo and other mods.

Zigg

 

[OkieGringo]

The new ATS company has a "add-on" wastegate for our old non-wastegated turbos for $270.00 . I'm thinking of buying one. Old style large impellers with a wastegate should blow the head gaskets in a hurry . Okiegringo

 

[TLBREWER]

Okie

Where you been? Haven't seen you post in awhile.

Tom