New Clutch Doesn't Work *NEW ISSUE*

crash-harris

Breaker! Breaker!
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Posts
2,063
Reaction score
66
Location
Chillicothe, OH
I swapped the clutch in Thumper from an older SMF kit to a new SMF kit (flywheel and all). This is about the 4th or 5th time I've done a SMF clutch on an IDI (first time with a turbo though), but this is the first time that the pedal has no resistance afterwords. And it's my only vehicle at the moment. And it's not charging now to boot (unrelated, I'm sure).

Can the SMF disc be installed backwards on these? Everything went together pretty easy, so I don't believe the friction disc is backwards.

How far is the slave supposed to move the clutch fork? I don't feel like it's moving far enough. The master wasn't dry, and I don't see a bleeder anywhere in the slave. It does look like it's been leaking a little before I bought the truck. There was no retainer for the pushrod on the slave, so it was extended overnight. I was able to compress it by hand fairly easily.

What did I do?
 
Last edited:

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,343
Reaction score
11,075
Location
edmond, ks
I think that you can install the clutch backward. From how I'm reading this, I'm guessing that there's air in the hydraulics. IIRC, the bleeder screw is in the upper part of the slave cylinder close to where the line attaches. If it has been leaking before, now may be a good time to install new parts. I'm thinking that a pre-bled kit with both the master and the slave would be worth the extra cost.
 

crash-harris

Breaker! Breaker!
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Posts
2,063
Reaction score
66
Location
Chillicothe, OH
I think that you can install the clutch backward. From how I'm reading this, I'm guessing that there's air in the hydraulics. IIRC, the bleeder screw is in the upper part of the slave cylinder close to where the line attaches. If it has been leaking before, now may be a good time to install new parts. I'm thinking that a pre-bled kit with both the master and the slave would be worth the extra cost.
I ended up finding the bleeder and that did end up being the problem. Unfortunately, new clutch hydraulics aren't in my future at three moment, but I am thinking about pulling the master and slave from the crew cab and swapping them (so I can still move the crew cab around).

Now I have to figure out why it suddenly stopped charging, and who took BOTH of my multimeters....probably just swap the 3G from the crew cab over...
 

chris142

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2012
Posts
3,007
Reaction score
353
Location
SoCal
Many years ago the clutch slave on mine sprung a leak. I bought a new one and put it on. I pumped,bled till I was blue in the face. Could not get any pedal. I threw in the towel and called a friend. He showed up with a new clutch master. That fixed it.

I guess I could not see the forest for the trees that day. After all the master was ok until the slave failed.
 

crash-harris

Breaker! Breaker!
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Posts
2,063
Reaction score
66
Location
Chillicothe, OH
Looks like removing from the transmission allowed the slave to die. It has bled off again overnight. Luckily, new slave cylinders aren't real expensive.
 

crash-harris

Breaker! Breaker!
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Posts
2,063
Reaction score
66
Location
Chillicothe, OH
New slave cylinder in, 3G swapped from the crew cab, clutch now works and truck now charges. Some of my awful sounds are even gone, but I have one new, very awful one. A terrible clutch rattling when it's engaged, at least at idle. Planning on getting a new clutch fork but could that really cause this rattling?

My video is apparently to big to process at only 23 seconds long, but I uploaded it to the boobtube.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
 
Last edited:

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,343
Reaction score
11,075
Location
edmond, ks
Looks like removing from the transmission allowed the slave to die.
That sure can happen. The rod extends out beyond where it normally does and then it causes a seal to leak. If the plastic retainer is still on the slave cylinder, you should use it. Another cause, that I've done is to get too much side pressure on the slave cylinder rod. Then something inside the slave gives and, again, you have a leak.
That rattle doesn't sound good. I haven't heard that sound before. I'm curious to see what you find.
 

crash-harris

Breaker! Breaker!
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Posts
2,063
Reaction score
66
Location
Chillicothe, OH
That sure can happen. The rod extends out beyond where it normally does and then it causes a seal to leak. If the plastic retainer is still on the slave cylinder, you should use it. Another cause, that I've done is to get too much side pressure on the slave cylinder rod. Then something inside the slave gives and, again, you have a leak.
That rattle doesn't sound good. I haven't heard that sound before. I'm curious to see what you find.
I'm hoping someone has some insight into that. With any luck, it's just the slight wear in the clutch fork (old TOB was squeaking pretty bad). Transmission does have a full gallon of Maxlife ATF in it to help with great rollover noise.
 

crash-harris

Breaker! Breaker!
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Posts
2,063
Reaction score
66
Location
Chillicothe, OH
Bumping for the AM crowd.

Hoping this is just the first time in experiencing this rattling until it wears in.

It wasn't doing it when I left for work this morning, but it was by the time I got to work, so only when it's warm, and only at idle. With the Banks muffler on it, it's almost frighteningly quiet going down the road now.

Flywheel bolts are torqued to 47 ft/lbs. and pressure plate bolts are torqued to 19 ft/lbs.
 
Last edited:

crash-harris

Breaker! Breaker!
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Posts
2,063
Reaction score
66
Location
Chillicothe, OH
Possibly new TOB on worn clutch fork? I noticed the fork bouncing in time with the rattling today.
 
Last edited:

crash-harris

Breaker! Breaker!
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Posts
2,063
Reaction score
66
Location
Chillicothe, OH
Noticed something since I've been driving it and it really has me scratching my head.

When coasting I'm neutral, the clutch doesn't rattle at all, until I get under about 15 mph. It's at its loudest when I'm stopped. So loud in fact, that I can hear it over the engine and exhaust when I'm outside and behind the truck. Ideas?

I have had zero slips out any other issues from the clutch, other than I had replaced the slave cylinder and can only really get it bled it to about 1/2 pedal, but works just fine and has a much easier to press pedal than the crew cab (also SMF, no firewall brace).
 

BrianX128

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2015
Posts
1,800
Reaction score
540
Location
Pittsburgh
Inspection cover still on? Mine made awful noises after converting to smf from dmf as it changed positions just enough where it was scratching the cover. Try and take it off on a dry day for kicks if it's still on there.
 

crash-harris

Breaker! Breaker!
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Posts
2,063
Reaction score
66
Location
Chillicothe, OH
I made sure that thing was tight when I was under there. The crew cab never had one. That cover can rattle when speed but not when moving? It's worth a shot I guess.
 
Top