Clutch issues

[Westonlane22]

Well decided to do my first clutch job on my 1991 f250 and boy has it ended up being a pain.
As far as the installation of the clutch went i thought it was very straight forward and simple. It really wasn’t hard and I had the trans dropped in under an hour. After putting it back together is where the trouble started..
After getting it all back together it would not go into gear when running. I got a new clutch line and slave cylinder. Still nothing. I found the clutch fork was not on good and I fixed it, it shifted fine the first time I tried it out after fixing the fork then it went right back to not going in gear. Dropped the trans again, pulled everything off and restarted. Torque spec every bolt, double check the plate to make sure its center, checked the pilot bearing, and swapped out the throw out bearing for a new one plus a new clutch fork.. same exact thing as the first time. It worked fine the first time I tried it out and went into gear no problem and then it went back to not going into gear again.
I’m at a loss here. I don’t understand why it keeps doing this and not going in gear after the first time I try it out.
The kit is a Luk 07-225 and I have a 91’ na idi.

 

[franklin2]

Very Very common problem. You have air in the hydraulic slave system, and it's very difficult to remove the air.

There is usually a bleeder on the slave. Sometimes it's just a hidden allen bolt. You can bleed it there as good as you can, but it still will not get ALL the air out. What finally got mine going was to get the engine warmed up so it started good, turn the engine off, put it in gear, and then start it in gear. Be prepared to take off of course. Find a bumpy road that is not busy and start using the clutch and shifting gears. If you come up on a stop sign and the clutch is still not working, turn the truck off. Put it in gear and start the engine when you are ready to go.

I found as I drove it, it only took a couple of miles and the clutch started working better. As I kept driving it, it came around to where it worked fine.

 

[Kizer]

The last one that I did, I bought a chinesium bench bleed kit (Amazon I think).
It worked well and only took a few minutes.

 

[divemaster5734]

The last one that I did, I bought a chinesium bench bleed kit (Amazon I think).
It worked well and only took a few minutes.

Have posted about the kit, used it for everything from brake and clutch bleed to PS and transmission.
Even used it to pull a couple quarts of ATF over fill after rebuild.
Best $50 spent.

 

[rreegg]

@Westonlane22 did you get it figured out?

 

[onetonjohn]

The other thing that can cause this, is putting the clutch disk in backwards. The raised portion should go to the pressure plate side, NOT the flywheel. Hopefully bleeding fixes, but usually as long as the bowl at the master didn't run dry, and you didn't crack the line, it's sealed, and you shouldn't need to bleed it. Ahh. Saw you did the line and slave - so disregart this. Need to bleed. Did you check the pivot ball?

 

[Old Goat]

I think on some clutch disks it is printed as to which side goes
where.

Here is another Clutch thread, down a ways I posted how I do mine.
Worked ok the last 2 times I replaced the MC & Slave.

Slave Cylinder Bleeding Trouble

1993 F250 7.3 idi zf5 4x4 NA Howdy, thank y’all for your help with the ZF5. I installed the 47 on Friday/Saturday and went great. Haven’t shifted it yet but will update other post when I do. While I was dumb***ing about getting it installed I wanted to start pick up to check if my rear main...

www.oilburners.net

Here is the clutch line I used I bought from Russ

Clutch Line Kit

russrepair.com

At the very bottom of each and every thread, there is 5 related threads to click onto.

Goat