Need pinout for 6.9 style GP relay

[Cubey]

99% sure the glow plug relay died on my RV, not the controller, since it has the newer solid state controller that should solves the "stuck on" issue. It's not clicking on, no WTS, nothing. It worked last cold start, but then didn't on only a slightly wamed engine. Today, nothing at all. Hitting it with a plastic screwdriver doesn't help, so it's totally dead, I guess. I've had the RV 4 years and it was sold even in 2019, so it's probably the issue.

But, what are the pinouts for the two smaller connectors/wires, purple (i think) and black. I want to be sure it's that and not some other wiring issue before I buy a order a new relay. Figure if I put ground or +12v to the proper terminals manually to active the relay and it still doesn't click on, then it's something else. Can't seem to find that bit of info though online.

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[IDIBRONCO]

I'm not sure about the black one, but the purple is the one that gets power when the key is in the "on" position. You want to put power to the one under the purple wire. The fact that it's still worked for this long is pretty amazing to me. Since there's no click or light, I'd also bet that it's your relay.

 

[Cubey]

I'm not sure about the black one, but the purple is the one that gets power when the key is in the "on" position. You want to put power to the one under the purple wire. The fact that it's still worked for this long is pretty amazing to me. Since there's no click or light, I'd also bet that it's your relay.

I think I found what I need. The single black wire is ground, purple is +12V from the controller. I have a Chilton Econoline book with a bit of diesel info and it shows the same, just well drawn out vs the diagram below I found online

WTS is fed off the same terminal as one bank of glow plugs. Orange = glow plugs. You can see a black wire attached to the factory connector with an orange wire on a big terminal on the left side ; that black wire is the WTS light. This diagram I found online seems to show that:

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Here's the one in my Chilton book. It looks incorrect because it doesn't show that black wire bundled with the orange:

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But.. maybe it's the early 83 wiring and the book just skips showing later 83(84?)-86.

This page mentions an early 83 difference with a 6 pin connector (which is what Chilton shows) and is where I found the better/correct diagram: http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/idi2.htm

EDIT: Here too: http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/idi.htm

 

[Cubey]

Yep, that must be right... the single black wire should be ground. The following is why.

Someone left this bad review on oreilly for the 4 terminal relay like my RV has, and says fits. They complained about having to add a ground wire for the "I" terminal. Maybe a past owner of their truck put 3 terminal one that grounded to chassis and they chopped off or hid the stock ground wire connector.

So.... to test my relay, I should be able to jumper the "S" terminal on the relay to the positive on the battery (right by it) to simulate the controller activating. I'll do that in a day or few and report back.

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The relay, $29 with a lifetime warranty. Sounds good to me: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...5161/automotive-van-1985-ford-e-350-econoline

 

[IDIBRONCO]

So.... to test my relay, I should be able to jumper the "S" terminal on the relay to the positive on the battery (right by it) to simulate the controller activating.

Or even off of the constant hot terminal on the relay itself.

 

[Cubey]

Nope, it's not the relay. It clicks on when I give it +12v to the "S" terminal and the "Glow Plug" (WTS) light comes on. Had a friend look to be sure the light was coming on when I was connecting activating it with a test lead, and it is, meaning the glow plugs are firing with manual control of the relay. So, I guess the solid state controller did die suddenly. Better that it died stuck off, not on, like the old electromagent ones. This mentions the newer ones being that way: https://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/60.html

Well, I guess I'll put a manual push button, at least for now.

$88+tax for a DieselRX controller: https://www.amazon.com/DieselRx-DRX01003-Glow-Plug-Controller/dp/B00TOZ9CUG

$136 (after 20% off)+tax for an OReilly controller (lifetime warranty though): https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...x41/v/a/5327/automotive-truck-1987-ford-f-250

Or.. $5.50+tax for a momentary switch. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...p-push-button-switch/cti0/85980?q=85980&pos=0

At least it's super easy to access and needs very little wire on a van chassis. The GP relay is just behind/above the driver side headlight, with the battery almost touching it.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

So, I guess the solid state controller did die suddenly. Better that it died stuck off, not on, like the old electromagent ones.

Boy you got lucky on that one!

 

[franklin2]

Well, I guess I'll put a manual push button, at least for now.

Welcome to the darkside. I think you will like the manual button.

 

[Cubey]

Boy you got lucky on that one!

I don't tink the solid state ones can get stuck on, hence why it was redesigned, probably to get rid of that problem. When they fail, they just stop working, being purely electronic components, not electro-mechanical.

Welcome to the darkside. I think you will like the manual button.

I put one my 87 F250 back in 2017 when I replaced the autolite glow plugs it had where half were burned out, and I found it annoying and ended up putting the controller back on. That's why I haven't bothered on the RV. But it's easy to undo if I want to spend the $100 on the part later, so it's an ok fix for now.