Need fuel line help-quickly

Michael Fowler

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While I have the engine apart for new lifters and and to re-torque the head studs, I figured I should replace the steel line from filter head to IP.
What are my options here? I prefer not dropping too much money at the dealer--I think they wanted $70+ for the steel line!
I have some copper of the correct size. Can I use that?
Should I single flare the ends and use a rubber donut like OEM? What are those little rubber donuts really called?
Can I use a ferrule and install like a regular compression fitting, or will the vibration destroy that?

I had hoped to use braided SS line, but they do not seem to connect to our compression fittings. I know I might be able to adapt at the IP, but what do you do about the tee on the filter head--that little return line?

Thanks for your help.
 

argve

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you should be able to use a compression fitting - we used them on industrial equipment all the time and trust me presses vibrate like you would not believe. I would just use a steel line instead of copper myself. Don't really have a good reason I just like steel line better.
 

Exekiel69

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They have stainless steel brake lines at napa I think up to 1/2 inch I got a 3/8" last week. You could use this instead of the copper line.
 

Exekiel69

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Btw they sell this on sections from 12" to 24" I think so no big money to get a piece, I have a tool to bend the pipe if need to borrow.
 

Agnem

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I'd stick with steel to keep the OEM design in mind. Other materials will work just fine, but may not hold up in a crash. Those of us who wish to die in a fiery blaze choose rubber. LOL
 

Michael Fowler

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Mel,
The one thing O do not worry about is igniting Diesel fuel in a crash. The vapors don't readily burn, like gasoline. Sometimes it is very hard to get the liquid to burn intentionally.

This is why I doubt the "official" version of the plane that exploded--the findings were that a faulty fuel gauge ignited the vapors in a Jet fuel ytank. IIRC, Jet fuel is very similar to diesel,
 

LCAM-01XA

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What pressure does the filter-to-IP line see anyways, is it just the 5-8psi off the lift pump? Can't we use just "regular" rubber hose for fuel injection systems (50-psi rated)? I gotta replace the IP feed line on the 6.9 and I'm wondering whether I should mess with bending steel lines and trying to find the rubber donuts, or just get the fuel injection hose and be done with it.
 

Double-S-Diesel

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If ya take the factory ends off, the filter head and IP are pipe thread, which can be adapted to the jic flare for the stainless braided line,
that is what I did to my IDI
 

tractorman86

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i can make you a crimped line with JIC fittings, both the adapters, and viton oring for $25 shipping is probably like 5bucks.
 

69dieselfreak

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i wouldnt go with compression fittings for fuel lines thats not what they are ment for
if it were me id go with tractormans set up thats the best thing since u can rebuild the hose and reuse the fittings that the only way to go
 

icanfixall

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Midwest Fuel Injection and Hectorwithinjectors sells the injection pump installation kit. It has the 3 drive bolts, o-rings and the 3 line donuts you need. The thrid donut goes way back near the number 8 intake runner on the hard return line 3 way manifold.. I'll bet not many of you guys knew about that fitting....;p BTW anybody know what the real nominclature name is for these line seals.....:D
 

RLDSL

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If you just want to get rid of that stupid factory noise, you can do like I did here the jic 5 -orb fitting for the tailpice in the pump should be available at any stanadyne pump shop. I believe one of the guys here was trying to put together kits to sell, might want to search it. beats the heck out of that stupid donut setup that leaks everytime you have to disturb it so you have to buy a new seal -cuss buy it once and be done with it
 

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