need advice on how to store an engine outside

[GREASE FIRE]

I have an extra 7.3 i got for cheap and it runs and is complete, so if my truck ever needs any parts or another engine i will use this one. Only problem is that the only place i have to store it is in a car port - enclosed on all sides except one and it will be far enough back so that rain will never hit it. I have it under a truck tarp with the air cleaner on and the inlet closed up with a plastic bag.
Could it sit like this for a few years if need be and still be good to go if the engine is needed or is there more i would have to? It seems inevitable that moisture will somehow get it but i just don't have an indoor place to put it.
Any advice appreciated!
thanks,
paul

 

[icanfixall]

I would use duct tape on all the intake and exhaust manifolds if it has them. You could also get some desicant from somewhere and place it in the intake and exhaust ports. Then tape things shut. Any moistrue that may find its way in will be handled.

 

[hesutton]

I'd take the IP off and cap the injectors. An IP without diesel for a long period can get dry/brittle seal/orings. Plus and condensation/moisture will kill it. I'd also periodically spray WD-40/oil or something similar into each cylinder to keep the walls and rings from rusting together.

Heath

 

[masterbeavis]

I do not trust WD40 as a long term protectant. I have been there and done that, was rewarded with a rusty block. I am not an expert on the subject, but if I had to store a motor outside again, here is how I would do it. I first would use some MMO, filling up cylinders thru any means nescessary to keep the air/condensation off of the metal. I would then the thing shut, using the silica gel/desicant someplace, and wrap it in a heavy plastic to seal it/keep out the water. Your luck may vary, and my answer might not be the right one, but I do know that WD40 and a tarp will not cut it, I have been there, and done that.

 

[h2odrx]

tape it! I'd also cover inside cylinders with ATF ..... or get a very big bag and vacuum seal it!!!

 

[GREASE FIRE]

I'd take the IP off and cap the injectors. An IP without diesel for a long period can get dry/brittle seal/orings. Plus and condensation/moisture will kill it. I'd also periodically spray WD-40/oil or something similar into each cylinder to keep the walls and rings from rusting together.

Heath

the engine was started and run about a month ago - wouldn't the IP still have diesel in it?

thanks,
paul

 

[GREASE FIRE]

I do not trust WD40 as a long term protectant. I have been there and done that, was rewarded with a rusty block. I am not an expert on the subject, but if I had to store a motor outside again, here is how I would do it. I first would use some MMO, filling up cylinders thru any means nescessary to keep the air/condensation off of the metal. I would then the thing shut, using the silica gel/desicant someplace, and wrap it in a heavy plastic to seal it/keep out the water. Your luck may vary, and my answer might not be the right one, but I do know that WD40 and a tarp will not cut it, I have been there, and done that.

if i decide to use motor oil instead of wd40 should i just pour some in through the glow plug ports? do you then have to drain it out before starting it up a few years later?
thanks,
paul

 

[masterbeavis]

Take what I have to say with a grain of salt, I have never had success with outdoor storage. I would venture a guess that you would have to remove glowplugs and crank the motor over to purge the oil so you do not hydrolock the engine. She will be a smoker for a bit, thats for sure.

 

[Dirtleg]

First I would loosen all the rocker arms so that all the valves were closed. Then I would fill the motor completely with new motor oil. Then remove the glowplugs and fill each cylinder with oil.

What you are trying to accomplish is to remove the possibility of having air trapped inside the motor. The normal heating and cooling of the air will create condensation inside and that is where the rust will come from. Also this way your bearings and seals won't dry out from sitting.

Make sure to put a catch pan under the motor if you store it this way as if there's any way for the oil to get out it will.

As Icanfixall said get some dessicant for the intake and then seal it shut. With the exhaust valves all closed you won't need any for the exhaust ports but you should at least seal them off as well.

Make a list of all the things you did to get it ready for storage and then seal it in a good plastic bag and tape it to the motor. That way when you are getting it ready for use again you don't overlook anything because you'll have everything right there in front of you.

When it's time to put it back in service drain the oil and purge the cylinders. Tighten up the rocker arms and undo anything else you've done and it will be as good as it is now as long as the oils has stayed in there.

 

[Agnem]

I've inadvertently stored one (in a truck) outside for a couple years. I want to get it running and see how bad it is. I plan to change the oil and filters first, then pull the glow plugs and lube the cylinders and bar it over. We'll see where it goes from there.

 

[sassyrel]

the only luck ive had outside-------------pull the injectors----fill the crankcase as full as you can with wmo--then fill to the top of the injector holes with same---which essentially seals the block with motor oil--depending on how full--you may have it run out the exhaust ports--as one said--remove the vc's first, and loosen the rocker arms--that way you know the cyls are full of oil--and youll have no rust on the crank or anywhere else inside the engine----id even then fill the intake with oil also--so the backside of the intake valves dont rust--and i aint the only one thats done this--and they have had good results also---and no--brand new oil wont coat parts as well as wmo----dirt in oil?????? beats me----

 

[GREASE FIRE]

the only luck ive had outside-------------pull the injectors----fill the crankcase as full as you can with wmo--then fill to the top of the injector holes with same---which essentially seals the block with motor oil--depending on how full--you may have it run out the exhaust ports--as one said--remove the vc's first, and loosen the rocker arms--that way you know the cyls are full of oil--and youll have no rust on the crank or anywhere else inside the engine----id even then fill the intake with oil also--so the backside of the intake valves dont rust--and i aint the only one thats done this--and they have had good results also---and no--brand new oil wont coat parts as well as wmo----dirt in oil?????? beats me----

that's probably what i will do. But whenever i go to start it how do i get all that oil out? can anyone explain the proper procedure and if there is a way to do that without creating a huge oil spill mess all over the driveway?

also, when i go to tighten the rocker arms back up again do they need to be torqued to a precise ft/lbs value?

thanks,
Paul

 

[RLDSL]

that's probably what i will do. But whenever i go to start it how do i get all that oil out? can anyone explain the proper procedure and if there is a way to do that without creating a huge oil spill mess all over the driveway?

also, when i go to tighten the rocker arms back up again do they need to be torqued to a precise ft/lbs value?

thanks,
Paul

There's a torque spec in the manual for the rocker bolts. when you bar the engine over oil will shoot out the glow plug holes. make sue to drain the oil out the pan first or you'll hjave a heck of a time trying to turn the thing. Go to the grocery store or pharmacy and look by the adult diapers for a large package of large incontinance pads for laying on beds. grab a pack or two of those and lay those things out under the truck and around it. they will catch every drop of the oil. Back when I used to do mobile service calls at rich peoples houses I figured that little trick out, never spilled a drop of oil on their driveways

----------Robert

 

[sassyrel]

that's probably what i will do. But whenever i go to start it how do i get all that oil out? can anyone explain the proper procedure and if there is a way to do that without creating a huge oil spill mess all over the driveway?

also, when i go to tighten the rocker arms back up again do they need to be torqued to a precise ft/lbs value?

thanks,
Paul

just have a big can, or two!! and take out the drain plug-----then bar the engine over like robert said--DONT use the starter till youve barred it over a few times!!!!