My first IDI, need some exhaust input.

[Lonesome7.3]

I am building my first IDI. It is a 94 with an OE turbo. I am not trying to build a sled puller out of it, just give it that little extra. It still has the factory exhaust from the turbo all the way back. To include, the original muffler. I usually kick the tail pipe out in from of the passenger side rear tire. Most of the store bought kits I have looked at has a lot of material I will not use. I would also like (if possible) to run the downpipe on the passenger side. I do not like how the exhaust runs under the bell housing in stock form. Is there a budget friendly improvement available?

 

[riotwarrior]

Budget friendly way to do what you describe...nope...summit may have the bannks downpipe which helpes plenty...then you can go to a 4" kit if you like...

JM7.3CW

 

[IDIoit]

i now have 200 dollars into my exhaust.(minus the upgrade shown below)
40 bucks a piece for 3" SS mandrel U bends. x 2
20$ for a 3" v band clamp w/ flanges
20$ header flanges to connect the DP to the 4" Electrical conduit.
80$ 10 feet, 4"electrical conduit and a 90* bend (actually 4.5")

BUT, i spent over 200 for a 3" exhaust housing.
which can actually be made at home if you have a TIG welder.

you can do the same for the stock exhaust housing.

making things on your own makes things alot cheaper.

 

[79jasper]

I feel like the electrical conduit is more expensive than normal steel exhaust pipe.
Try some local truck parts shops. Like truck pro.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Runningaford]

I did the banks down pipe, it's an oddball 2.75", and couldn't find an adapter very cheap to go from that to 4" JEG's aluminized steel pipe; which is what I used. From JEG's, I ordered 1- 4"x5' straight pipe, 1-4" U, and 1-4" 90. I had the downpipe installed, and matched the angle I wanted to cut out of the U bend with a piece of copper wire. I cut the U-bend a little long, and noted that it really wasn't too much bigger than the 2.75"; so I cut relief cuts in what was left of the U-bend, and beat them down around the 2.75" piece, and welded the cuts closed. From there, I welded 4"x5' stick to the U, then welded the 90 on there. From there, the left over bit of the 4" U had a straight enough section to stub the exhaust out the side approx. 18", or so in front of the passenger side rear wheel.

I used the JEGS cheapy exhaust hangers, I think they were like 8 bucks, and I needed 2.

It's a slip fit on the downpipe. I think in total I'm into for around $180. It sounds good, and works.

Edit to add: The biggest hurdle I had was trying to figure out an adapter for the Banks down pipe, but after having material in hand, and comparing diameters, as stated above, I southern engineered it, and it looks good

 

[FordGuy100]

Downpipe turn down



You all think I'm joking. 60K miles my TDI has been like that!

 

[catbird7]

I bought a 4" stainless Diamond Eye exhaust kit (muffler delete) designed for a powerstroke and it fit my 87 extended cab with 093 ATS turbo perfectly with the exception of the 3" downpipe. Had to purchase a 3" stainless V-band clamp & flange and weld in place.

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Also slight mod to downpipe.

 

[Lonesome7.3]

I looked into the Banks Downpipe. I am thinking about getting that and using the three inch exhaust I have on a parts truck. How big is too big for this truck?

 

[jhenegh]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?72748-Got-my-exhaust-on

My setup

 

[Lonesome7.3]

Damn, I wish I could see pictures.

 

[Clb]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=56412&d=1428499814

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=56434&d=1428600225yea that's my ifal device right there' sorry.

 

[Lonesome7.3]

That is pretty neat.

 

[needlenose]

I just put in my first full exhaust on my truck. If I had it to do over again I wouldn't get many mandrel bends at all. I only used a few of them because most of the bends were the wrong radius. I figured up all the bends I needed and just made them from straight pipe. I ended up just making the v-band and the transition to 4" using a piece of 1" plate bored out and the flare from a 3"-4" transition. I dimpled the floorboard in about 1.5" to clearance the pipe between bellhousing and the cab.

The v-band

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The lobster back. 4" pipe on a 5" center line radius.

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Fitted up.

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Painted.

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I really wish I had replaced that stupid flattened pipe on the 7.3 when I was running it. It would have been fun. When I started this project, I was shocked that there was no cheap hobby-level software for calculating bend segments. I ended up writing some software to calculate the bends and produce the segment templates which can be printed out and traced on the pipe. Then you can cut it with a cut-off wheel, hacksaw, sawz-all, or whatever you have if you don't have chop-saw with an indexable fence. I was going to sell it cheap for DIY'ers like myself. 3.5" pipe templates will fit diagonally on standard 8.5"x11" paper. But I would need to add a nesting component for pipe larger than that.

I think I spent around $250 for everything. That included the Donaldson 40" muffler and hangers which I just made up out of .5" hot roll and the little rubber sections from Summit. I bought everything from Summit except the muffler. It came from Ryder. I bought 16' 4" pipe in 4' sections.

 

[Lonesome7.3]

That looks pretty good

 

[laserjock]

I bought a power stroke down pipe from diamond eye. Of course I am not using a factory turbo.