My first filtration rig... wmo processor

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Lol... I do get some stares and funny looks... its only been on the road a few months but it does get attention.

Thanks for all the positive comments... going to pick my trans up saturday so hopefully I'll be getting back into wmo very soon

-Chris
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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On a bad blend of wmo and the trans going... (converter won't hold lock up anymore along with other issues) I was seeing mid teens...

With a good wmo mix and a good trans.. I would say low to mid 20s.

My worst so far was 15mpg.... best on gas with the 35s was around 13 for same driving conditions.

We'll see soon what it can really do hopefully.

-Chris
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Hey guys...

Been a while but the truck is back up... was down for a while so I could build the 4l80e... but back on the road again.

Anyways... so my SBC pump locked up during a pick-up a while back... and it was rather slow... so I decided to upgrade.

I like the drill powered pump... simple and maintenance free for the most part... so I wanted to stick with an engine oil pump... decided to try a BBC pump instead. Local autozoo had a melling high volume BBC pump on the shelf for just a bit more then I gave for the SBC pump... so I went with it...

After a few hours of tinkering... this is what I came up with...
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Fitted for use with 1" barbs
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Pressure side epoxied in due to slight leak..
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I tested the pump on some already blended W80... Had some leaks (due to mig welding cast... if it was under any kind of pressure, I would care... but anyways..) Before fixing the leaks with the epoxy.. I filled a 5 gallon bucket in around 10 seconds at half the drill speed (using a 1/2" HF hammer drill).. It MOVES some oil! I picked up 25' of 1" sprayer hose for plumbing my pick-up drum.

I'm sure it'll slow down a bit with straight oil and the longer hose/wand in place... but it should move A LOT more oil then the SBC ever would... and still chucks into the 1/2" drill no problem... actually a bit more secure then the SBC pump did (which is what caused the pump to lock-up... wasn't running true)

Anyways... Hoping to start picking up again next week.
-Chris
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Ran the new pump this weekend and am very happy with it. I was able to fill my 55gal. pick up rig in under 5 minutes at 3/4 drill speed using a HF 1/2" hammer drill I got for $12 on sale.

Keep in mind this was pulling through 20' of 1" sprayer hose and a 1" I.D. pvc suction wand.

Works great!
-Chris
 

fields_mj

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The pics are showing up for me for some reason, but it sounds like you have a good setup. I'm currently running a blend of WVO/D2, but plan on using a WMO blend this winter. As far as collection and transferring oils, I use a diaphram vacuum pump. I paid too much for mine, but it's the 12V one that murphy's machine sells and I end up running it off of a small deep cycle marine battery. I already had the battery to use with a trolling motor, but in hind sight, I would have been better served getting a 110V diaphram pump with 2X or 3X the volume capacity, and then using a small inverter to power it remotely when needed. That's why hind sight is 20-20. I've noticed that it typically takes around 5 inches of vac before the oil starts to flow, and at that point it takes me about 10 min to fill a 50 gal container when starting from scratch. If I charge the container with vacuum on the way to collect, it will have around 25" of vac on it when I start out, and that cuts my fill time WAY down. For a pressure vessle/transport container I use a 50 gal electric water heater tank. I pulled the electric water heater out of the house a few years ago and had it sitting in the basement in my way. They also work very well for a cold up-flow tank as the inlet side already has a tube that runs 3/4 of the way to the bottom, and they already have a drain valve built in. I welded 1 1/2" pipe nipples into mine and use 1 1/2" suction line that I bought from Tractor Supply Company. Depending on how much oil I'm collecting at one time, I suck it into the tank as it lays in the back of my truck bed, then pump it into 55gal open top drums that are also in the back of the truck. To pump the oil out, I simply move my hose from the vacuum to the pressure side of my diaphram pump. My setup would not work very well with a Tahoe, but I though I would share anyway.

My filter set up is a little messier than yours, but probably cheaper. I use sock filters and I welded up a small stand to go over an open top drum. I bring the oil in via my water heater tank (which now has wheels welded to it also), pressureize the tank to 10PSI via my air compressor and a pressure regulator, and then crack a valve open and push it out through some PVC hose to the sock filter. I cut the oil with K1 in its storage tank before sucking it into the water heater tank for transport to my filter. Not nearly as clean and simple as your set up, but it worked with what I had available and minimized my investement. I'd like to get a fuge from simplecentrifuge, but even if I just buy the kit for under $1K, the payback is still going to take a while and I'm not confident that the rest of the truck (tranny, suspension, body) is going to hold up long enough to pay for the fuge. I drive 22 miles each way to work (takes about 30 min), and plan on using a 50% WMO mix Dec through Feb. I'll be lucky if the WMO side of it saves me $500 a year, but the effort and expense involved is not that much since I'm already running a WVO in the warmer months. This is my first full season of running the WVO blend, but I'm hopefull that it will cut my anual fuel bill ($4K) by at least 30%. The WMO should bring that savings up to nearly 50%.

My next projects are a wrap heater for my fuel filter and water injection to try to keep the engine clean and minimize future maintenance costs. Saving $2K or more on fuel every year is nice, but a new IP and injectors will run me around $1200 including labor. It's still worth it, but if $100 worth of hardware can prevent it, that would be even better :)

I didn't see where you mentioned installing your FPHE yet. If you're driving short distances, I would think it's a waste of time because your coolant will not have a chance to get hot enough to make the FPHE work. I would think that a 12V heater would work better. There are several filter elements out there that use a glow plug to pre-heat the oil just before it enters the filter. WVOdesigns also sells a couple of different wrap style heaters that wrap around the fuel filter. Given your average commute time, and that you're using a one tank system, I would opt for one or both of those before I tried a FPHE.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Hey man... well apparently I ran out of bandwidth on photo bucket... that sucks.

Anyways... thanks for the info. I thought strongly about building a super sucker and probably will when I get further into it.

You can get a pump driven fuge from PA for 155... which is the route I plan to go soon.

As for the fuel heater and what not... I'm currently building a dual tank setup for the truck... I plan to run straight d2 in the main tank and w80 in the second... start and shut down on d2.

I'll only run the w80 when engine temps actually get to operating temp... so not the drive to work.... but anywhere else.

I'm hoping to have my second tank in and ready in the next month or two.

So why are you only running 50%? You should be able to run 100% w80 or w85 in that 7.3 no problem.
 

fields_mj

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One of the reasons that I haven't tried to go with straight WVO or WMO is that I haven't added any additonal heat to my system. I played with both WVO and WMO a little bit last year to see how it would run for me before I spent any money trying to do it on a larger scale. With the WVO I went with W75~W80 because I know guys who do this with single tank systems and have put +100K on them with no problems. Besides, I don't yet have enough WVO do do anything more. Having said that, the other 20%~25% of my blend (last year) was K1, not D2. This year I'm using D2 because it's a little cheaper (was the same as K1 last summer), and I've noticed that I'm having to let it turn over a few times if I don't get it shut down early enough on the way home. If I happen to forget to swap over to D2 at all, then it takes 5 or 6 sec of cranking to get the truck to start. On D2 it starts within the first second.

With the WMO, I went with a 50% blend because that's what a couple of guys on the 6.9/7.3 forum were having good results with. I was just using up the oil that I had collected from my own oil changes over the last few years, and only ran about 4 tanks through. I was cutting it with K1 and I started out more allong the lines of W75, but I also had 5 gal or so of D2 still in that tank. After a few tanks, I started getting a little more smoke. I only had enough WMO for 4 tanks, and by that last tank I was seeing a fair amount of smoke and I was glad to be out of the WMO. I didn't try adding any RUG. Now that I've learned more about water injection, I'm looking forward to trying it again this winter. From what I'm reading, guys are getting good results with late model fords and cummins using WMO and water injection. That gives me a little more reason to invest in equipment knowing that it could be used for my next vehicle and not just the one I have now.

I've been looking at fuges for a few years now, and from what I'm seeing the fuge from PA is certainly better than filters, but still leaves a lot of room for improvement as far as effeciency and effectiveness goes. I'm convinced that the concept from simplecentrifuge is the best, and is well worth the extra money. I'm just not willing to fork out a grand or more in order to save $500 a year on a truck that may or may not last long enough for the equipement to pay for itself. Now that I'm finding info on using WMO in newer engines, I'm a little more willing to open up the purse strings, but it's still not going to happen this year. Too much other work to do.

The supersucker concept works well for me. I even went so far as to buy a brand new 21 gal air compressor from harbor freight and strip the compressor off so that I could use the tank. That has become my portable filling station. I have a 3/4" nipple welded into the bottom of th tank with a valve on it. Then a female banjo style fitting. Then I have a corresponging male banjo fitting on a 3/4" hose. I will fill the tank from my clean fuel drum and wheel it out to the truck along with a 5gal portalble air tank charged to 115psi. I connect an air hose between the two with a regulator set at 10PSI, and use that to pump the fuel into another temp tank that sits in teh side of my bed with a final golden rod filter. From there it flows to my fuel tank. The goal is to plum the golden rod directly to my air tank, and buy a auto shut off nozzel and then fill directly from the air tank. I just haven't bought the auto shut off nozzel yet. I'm at an intermediat point where I'm using the stuff that I used last year when I was just testing the stuff out, but piece by piece I'm converting over to something that allows me to use waste oil more easily on a daily basis.
 
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idiabuse

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The Engine will sip the WMO with no issues as long as you own the truck, The only issue you have is the complete fuel line system.
You have to run 85/15 to make WMO thin enough to pump from the tank to the Injection Pump.
I got tired of delivery issues so I re plumbed my whole system including the super restrictive OEM filter/Head.

Now I can pump STR8 WMO if I wanted to and delivery is never an issue now.

My 7.3 starts just fine as long as she is warm, I always plug it in an hour before I start it in the
mornings.

I use any type of Petrol and I really like free Stale Boat gas especially Two Stroke fuel!

Javier
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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K1 actually cuts the oil and thins it down where D2 or pump diesel doesn't.

We are trying to get the same viscosity as pump diesel... so blending with pump diesel wont do the trick.

You will get more smoke running wmo... there is no way around it really. Your mixture, timing, fuel temp, etc..etc.. all play into how much smoke you'll get. You can get it down quite a bit... some claim no smoke... I cant see it happening or being possible... but for nearly free fuel.. I'll live with it.

I currently blend with gasoline... 80/20 wmo/gas and its THIN. Ive thought about using K1 but its rather expensive here and the point of running this setup for me is cost mainly.

What ever you do, do NOT blend any amount of WMO with any amount of WVO. They will gel and plug up the entire fuel system. Choose a fuel source and stick with it.. which ever would be easier/cheaper for you to get your hands on consistently.

Once I get my 2nd fuel system plumbed in (which I'm using some high flow electronic valves from grease car to switch over my supply and return lines), I do plan on using water injection as well. I'm really hoping to get it down to where the truck will be nearly free to drive when driven long distances. When staying in town and what not, straight diesel it is.. that does 2 things... keeps me from coking injectors/rings... and keeps me from annoying the locals with the smell of burning wmo :D

-Chris
 
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fields_mj

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Yeah, D2 really doesn't thin nearly as well as K1. I knew that already, but I've really "learned" it this year. I run 3 or 4 tanks of straight D2 when I switch over from WVO to WMO. In the past I hadn't really looked into WMO much because of the additional smoke, and the added wear on the engine. I figure since the engine is old already, I should be nice to it :)

My main focus is cost of operation as well. I started down the road of Bio, but the more folks I spoke with, the less that made sense. Then I moved to WVO and only realy looked at WMO for use in the winter when I can't use WVO reliably. I have to pay for decent WVO, but it's still cheap compaired to D2, even if I cut it with K1. I've only reciently stumbled across the idea of using WI to keep the engine clean, and the more I read up on it the more I like it. Based off of my very limited readings so far, it appears that there are guys who are running late model trucks on high percentage WMO blends with single tank systems. That opens up a whole new door for me as I've been trying to figure out what our next vehicles will be for the last couple of years. The wife drives 45 miles each way to work (loves her job though, and it's only 3 days a week for excelent pay). She's in a 2004 CRV right now at 25 mpg. The idea of water injection could open up the possibility of an '03 Excursion. Not sure what part of IN you are in, but round here when it does finally snow, the wind will often blow the highways closed. Wife starts her drive home at 2:00 AM, and between the snow and the deer, I like the idea of the Excursion over the CRV. Plus I don't have to bend over to strap the kids into their seats. Also opens up the same doors for the replacement of my truck when it comes time, which is my real concern. We heat with firewood, we eat a LOT of deer meat, and we camp, so I pretty much have to have a truck in the drive way, and having one that's 4wd is a major bonus. With 2 kids, and both of us working, both vehicles have to be able to hold the driver plus 2 car seats, which puts me into an extended cab or crew (with a strong preference to the crew). While I don't need 400hp, I do need something that can handle 5K~6K of wet oak stacked in the bed. Oh, and I beat the heck out of them. I don't want no perdy truck ;) Since the truck becomes my daily driver by default (50 miles/day round trip), the fuel costs are a noticable factor in the decision as well. By the time it's said and done, we would be looking at $15K~$20K per vehicle which is way out of our budget for something that gets 15~20mpg with fuel that's $3.75 to $4+ a the pump. However, if WI truely opens up the door for using WMO in late model engines, that's a game changer. Our fuel bill last year was around $7K. Running two diesels on WMO would drop that to under $3K. How far under would depend on the blend, but it's possible it could go as low as $2K. Cutting our anual cost of living by $4K to $5K would allow me to open up the purse strings a LOT farther when considering future purchases.

I'd like to keep my truck forever, if for no other reason than I can take it out in the woods and beat the tar out of it and still have a smile on my face. But it would be nice if my backside didn't know where every little bump was on the way too and from work. And the truth is that in another 2 or MAYBE 3 years, the body and suspension on the truck are going to be so far gone that she's no longer suitable for a daily driver. So while I like the fact that I can run just about anything in my truck's stock system (once it warms up), the truth is that I have to watch what I spend on things like a centrifuge, a collection system, and so on because I only have a very finite amount of time to recover those costs. Once again, however, if WI actually makes using WMO a good, long term option on late model diesels, it becomes an entirely new ball game. Still more research to do....
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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I have an idea for you that would solve several problems...

Why not pick up a newer model roller with a blown motor or no motor... drop the good engine and trans from your truck into the roller and have a comfortable yet affordable driver?

The motor you have now is cheap to work on compared to anything new... and can burn just about anything... that in a comfortable shell would be great and pretty reasonable to do.

As for fuel costs... I get my waste oil free... and sometimes get my gas for free(stale or dieseline from a friends shop)... which equates to free fuel.

I'm in southern Indiana... just outside of Evansville... u up north?
 

fields_mj

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I've looked into that a lot. Cost would run around $10~$15K assuming that I already had the roller, engine, and drive train, that I had the time to do it, and an indoor place to do it, which I don't have either. While my engine is easy to work on, it will also have over 250K on it by the time I'm ready to upgrade. Still life left in it, but it would be getting tired soon and would most likely not out last it's 2nd body. For $15K, I expect a vehicle that I can put a bare min of 200K on with very little maintenance other than what's listed in the owner's manual.

I can get WMO for free, but it's noticably more abrasive than D2, so I try to run WVO when I can. Free is only free so long as it's not going to cause me to do additional maintenance work, or have to replace the vehicle prematurely. Still, I think being able to run WMO cleanly is about as close to free as a person can get.

I'm just east of Terre Haute. We get some snow here, and every once in a while we'll get 6" or more. However, my wife is a nurse at a hospital outside of Indy. Calling off during bad weather is a big no no for her. Even if she has sick time available, she can still get fired for it. As little as 2" is enough to cause significant drifting on some of the highways that she travels, so she needs a vehicle that will get her there and back regardless. The CRV meet the bill, but doesn't hold up to deer very well. Around here it's not a question of IF you hit a deer, it's when. If I get her a bigger vehicle, it will get a rather stout custom front bumper and brush gard added to it.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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I'd say you could find a roller cheap... and I'd venture to say you could do the swap for a lot cheaper then what you are thinking.

Heck.. I've only got 7k in my Cummins swap in m
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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I'd say you could find a roller cheap... and I'd venture to say you could do the swap for a lot cheaper then what you are thinking.

Heck.. I've only got 7k in my Cummins swap in my Tahoe and that includes buying a motor... building a trans... and buying other swap parts... you would already have all of that.. would just have to build mounts and drop it in.

Either way...
 

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