My facet mechanical to electric fuel pump conversion review.

austin92

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I dont have a number but a perfectly brand new filter will drop the PSI to the IP some amount--then as it catches junk it will drop more and more. This is why the pressure gauge is best placed between the filter head and IP. In fact you can use the port closest to the firewall(the vac sensor) to measure. Tee in there to retain the sensor lamp.
Additionally you could even keep the pre-filter gauge then add a post-sensor gauge to have a restriction-monitoring setup! :Thumbs Up
I must be blind or have a different filter head because I don’t have that port lol


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snicklas

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I must be blind or have a different filter head because I don’t have that port lol


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If you still have the original 6.9 filter head, I don’t think it has that light. If you don’t have the fuel heater plug, it’s the 6.9 head.
 

Clb

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Scott, thanks
Question.... any way of consolidating these pump issue threads into a group discussion \tech setup?
Seems it could be a way to cure the facet issues in 1 place and time....
I dunno
 

Booyah45828

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Why don't you tee into where the vacuum switch is at? I believe the sensor is 1/8 npt and I would think it would have the same pressure that the line to the injection pump would see. A simple brass t fitting from the hardware and you should be golden.
 

austin92

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My truck has a 1982 build date and I’ve found it doesn’t have a lot of things everyone else’s truck does. No vacuum switch or fuel heater in this case


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rwk

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PO of my truck put a new stock fuel pump AND a facet cube pump at the tank to help his problem which turned out to be IP and some bad GPs 1 of which was broke off, I put new IP, injectors and GPs, been ok for about 10k so far starts good in below freezing, within seconds in moderate weather, have to fix my shower head next, runs out at 1/4 tank, got to check FSV also.
 

BioFarmer93

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Much easier to just splice in to the 3/8 rubber line for now.

Ah, yes- I'd forgotten about the hard line to the I.P.. Mine has been 3/8" diesel rated hose for so long that it completely slipped my mind. In the photo you can see that my setup is completely off the res, so to speak. I would say "custom", but think it should be prettier to call it that. I plumbed in a couple of Tees, one that is valved for the fuel share/air bleed hose, and one for the I.P. and fuel pressure gauge.

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tbrumm

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I will add another observation to this thread concerning the Facet Duralift. It was 16 below here this morning (ambient temperature - not the windchill factored in) and when I stared the truck, the fuel pressure gauge was reading around 3.5 psi after the filter head. Uh-oh, that doesn't look good. I have a blanket heater that wraps around the fuel filter so I turned that on while the truck was warming up. After about 15 minutes, I jumped back into the truck and started off for work. The gauge pressure went down as I used the throttle. When I pulled the first hill, the gauge was pegged to zero and the restricted filter light came on. If I backed off the throttle, the light would go out and I would at least read some pressure on the gauge. The truck ran fine, but I kept the filter blanket heater on for the entire 25 minute trip "just in case". By the time I arrived at work, the gauge was reading 4.5 psi at idle - still not great but better. I buy my fuel (which is winterized) from a know good source, and I add Stanadyne Performance formula at the rate of 4oz. per tank every time I fill up. I do not think the fuel was jelling (I have experiences fuel jelling in this truck years ago and this wasn't it). I am beginning to think that maybe the Duralift cannot cope well with the increased viscosity of the fuel at this temp?
 

79jasper

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With fuel flowing, that heater isn't doing Jack.
You would need a pretty high wattage unit to actually do any good heating the fuel as it's flowing through.

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Clb

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Any chance the e pump is seeing frozen moisture inside the mechanism? Or the tiny ports??
(thinking same issue as the filter you put a heater on)
I wonder if the viscosity idea is onto something here.
Phawk -0deg. Weather
 

tbrumm

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With fuel flowing, that heater isn't doing Jack.
You would need a pretty high wattage unit to actually do any good heating the fuel as it's flowing through.

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We are actually talking about the Facet here and not the fuel heater, but since you brought it up, this is a pretty healthy heater- forget the wattage right now but it does warm the filter - so yeah it is doing jack Jasper! It kept the truck running in subzero temps when I was having trouble with glycerin (from crappy biodiesel) dropping out of solution and clogging the filter before I cleaned the tanks. It is a filter heater that the bio and veggie guys use for cold weather and it works. I think the brand name is Wolverine.
 
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Thewespaul

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Any chance the e pump is seeing frozen moisture inside the mechanism? Or the tiny ports??
(thinking same issue as the filter you put a heater on)
I wonder if the viscosity idea is onto something here.
Phawk -0deg. Weather
I see the happen a lot in colder weather. Electric pumps (or any electric motors really) don’t like cold weather, and perform better once they start getting a little heat in them. I had a buddy that took his drag car up in Colorado for a meet, he had trailer issues on the way and showed up to the track late, around 11pm. He pulled the car out and rushed it to the line to try and get a couple passes of testing in before they closed for the night. The temps were a lot colder than what we see in the Texas during the fall, and his e pump was struggling. Not knowing this, he took the car for a pass and it leaned out and broke a piston because he dropped fuel pressure.
 

79jasper

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We are actually talking about the Facet here and not the fuel heater, but since you brought it up, this is a pretty healthy heater- forget the wattage right now but it does warm the filter - so yeah it is doing jack Jasper! It kept the truck running in subzero temps when I was having trouble with glycerin (from crappy biodiesel) dropping out of solution and clogging the filter before I cleaned the tanks. It is a filter heater that the bio and veggie guys use for cold weather and it works. I think the brand name is Wolverine.

If it's used in bio/wvo, it's likely higher wattage.......
But would be interesting to see outlet temperature comparison with and without.

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