My 3 tank fuel system for WMO.

[Brad S.]

Heres a drawing of the tanks on my pickup and fuel lines etc.
The actual position of the WMO tank is different but you get the point.
It takes a little bit to follow all the lines, to figure out the flow.
Another bit of info, I have 2 switches in the cab to run the 3 port valves and the stock switch for front and rear tanks.
Please ask if I left anything major out, thanks.

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[79jasper]

Pretty good. Should help people understand how to plumb in another tank.

I would like more info on the 3 port valves you used.

 

[Josh Carmack]

It'll work fine.

I robbed a 6 port valve off one of my trucks destined for the heap, but forgot to pull the switch. Once i get another switch, I'm also going to run off a 100 gal tank from the bed. The big tank will also double as a filler tank for my farm equipment. Don't much care about separating the return, but figured I would add 3 port valve later with a 5 min timer wired into it. I'm very forgetful. If you have ever had a transfer valve fail, you know how quickly the return can run an already full tank out on the ground. I once dumped about 75 bucks worth of gasoline on the freeway before I realized there was a problem. From the moment I smelled gas til the tank was empty was about 15 minutes. Stopped for fuel and pulled out. Switched tanks be cause I have always preferred to run the rear empty first, smelled gas about 5 minutes later briefly at a stop, and then got back out on the interstate and ran out 15 minutes later. Yeah, 22 gals of gasoline dumped out the filler neck.....

 

[Josh Carmack]

79 Jasper the big auto parts dealers sell a regular 3 port valve for about 25 bucks but you need to be able to wire it properly, I haven't found a kit, and most of those valves use a DPDT switch with 6 wires. If electrics are not a problem for you, they are quite easy to hook up.

 

[79jasper]

I was just curious as to what Brad used.
I don't want the normal switching valves, I'm looking for something better. And full port size.
Which I've got my eye on a few, just can't find enough info on them.

 

[kerrynzl]

Just curious here.
Why didn't just use 2 x 6port valves instead of 2 x 3port and 1 x 6 port. You'd have 1 x 6 port to switch front and rear tanks and the other to switch fuels

 

[Brad S.]

Pretty good. Should help people understand how to plumb in another tank.

I would like more info on the 3 port valves you used.

Heres a pic of the kind valve I used, it was a few years ago already.
Not exactly the same one, but same config.
Have to ground the valve went you mount it, and a wire to your switch.
Originally I was thinking of using wvo, but didn't like the fact of cold weather and jelling fuel.
The wvo valves were much more expensive, I think these were $30-$40.

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[Brad S.]

Just curious here.
Why didn't just use 2 x 6port valves instead of 2 x 3port and 1 x 6 port. You'd have 1 x 6 port to switch front and rear tanks and the other to switch fuels

I didn't want to disturb the stock fuel system, just put a valve on the supply & return sides.
Also want to use my stock fuel filter.
I'll have to ponder on 2 x 6 port valves..??

 

[kerrynzl]

Both those 3 port valves in your schematic go back to the 6 port anyway.
All you do is plumb it exactly the same as you've already done but use another 6 port instead.

Also be careful of some "fake" Pollack valves out there. You'd be better of with a factory OEM valve from a Chevy Truck [ AC Delco ] , even 2nd hand is better than a Chinese Replica Pollack.

 

[Brad S.]

IF, I can remember that far back, I figured I only needed one extra "port" on both supply & return side.
Some systems I've seen have a separate pump, filter, and a "Y"ed fitting to run the fuel to IP. (didn't want to spend that much)
When the 6 port switches, it switches the supply & return at the same time..???
I wanted to separate the return flow before or after I switched the supply flow.
Thanks for the heads up on the cheap valves, next time I'm at salvage yard, might pull a couple valves just in case.

 

[Josh Carmack]

I plan on using 2 6 ports, and a 3 port on a timer when ever I get a round tuit. Stock front and rear 6 port, and another 6 port in front of that to go from stock to AUX which I'll call the primary. Then a 3 port on the return under the hood, to go directly back to the aux tank, or back into the primary 6 port. With that method, I'll be able to hit a button on the dash, and with a set timer it'll bypass all valves and go to AUX, after timer resets it'll go back to the primary 6 port, and go to aux or stock and of course if stock to whatever tank. That allows me to return WMO to the aux every time without forgetting to switch the return back to normal. I will also allow me to mix diesel into my AUX tank if needed by repeatedly pressing the bypass button. Got lots of automation timers I used in a factory that shut down a few years ago, that have just been sitting in my toolbox for years. They can be adjusted for anything from a few hundredths of a second to hours of hold on or off delay etc.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Another thought... for plumbing my dual tank system in my Tahoe... I picked up a set of these...
http://greasecar.com/product/kit-valves

They certainly are not the cheapest option.. but I wanted a quality electronic valve that I could rely on that would hold up to heated wmo... These are all stainless with Viton seals and are rated for heated fuels.

Now I just need to get the tank!
-Chris

 

[Brad S.]

Another thought... for plumbing my dual tank system in my Tahoe... I picked up a set of these...
http://greasecar.com/product/kit-valves

They certainly are not the cheapest option.. but I wanted a quality electronic valve that I could rely on that would hold up to heated wmo... These are all stainless with Viton seals and are rated for heated fuels.

Now I just need to get the tank!
-Chris

I think those were exactly the valves & stuff I was looking at when thinking about wvo, they should work really good on wmo.
Might switch to those if I have one go bad

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Dumb question, but is it possible to use one of the stock twin tanks for wmo? A friend of mine just picked up an 93 f250 ext. cab 4x4 and was thinking about using one of his stock twin tanks to run wmo...

Are the returns and feeds separate on the stock setup? Would it blend with the non wmo tank?

Thanks guys
-Chris

 

[Josh Carmack]

Completely stock

I have yet to setup my tanks as wanted, and am therefore still running a Completely stock fuel system. each time you switch tanks , about a quart or so is mixed from one tank to the other. I run close to 100% in one tank, and 50% in the other, and it suits me just fine.